Traction is your friend more than clearance.

 

Lift kit in the OB does not gain much additional clearance for bigger tires.

sounds like you need a SnowCat.

 

This is my winter condition. I've dug through the forums looking for lift kit info and tire info. Most of the lift info talks about road handling and tech things regarding installation. The question I'd love answered is this, How much of a difference will a standard issue 2" kit and bigger wheels make in snow, uphill, on lousy road? Or do I just do the wheels/tires? I'm not an off roader as a hobby, but I do live off grid and my driveway is easily 25 degrees in spots. I often get stuck at the base of it in the winter.

2019 3.6R Bone stock.


oh, I do put the bands on.

I would personally just do stock size winter tires. I would not do anything else until after practice tells me that I have to.

I very much doubt that a 2" lift will get the Subaru any further in snow but I can be wrong. Occasionally

 

I would install the most aggressive stock size tires you can.

I would also consider some aftermarket skid plates.

I've driven through approximately 30" of fresh unplowed snow in that configuration.

 

I would install the most aggressive stock size tires you can.

I would also consider some aftermarket skid plates.

I've driven through approximately 30" of fresh unplowed snow in that configuration.

I know this can of worms has been opened ad nauseam, but while we are here, recommend for snow and steep grades for tires? Cost and noisy ride no object.

 

This is my winter condition. I've dug through the forums looking for lift kit info and tire info. Most of the lift info talks about road handling and tech things regarding installation. The question I'd love answered is this, How much of a difference will a standard issue 2" kit and bigger wheels make in snow, uphill, on lousy road? Or do I just do the wheels/tires? I'm not an off roader as a hobby, but I do live off grid and my driveway is easily 25 degrees in spots. I often get stuck at the base of it in the winter.

2019 3.6R Bone stock.


oh, I do put the bands on.

Hearing about that kind of fun makes me miss my '97 Jeep Wrangler!

 

I run Hakkapeliitta factory studded tires on my '97 OB in the winter, stock tire size, stock suspension, nasty old factory "Steelies". 10in of snow, even on a steep grade is no problem. And the car Rocks on ice.
If you can't/don't want to run studded tires, a set of chains will get you where you want to go in most any sort of winter driving situation, and in summer mud too, to some extent, but they are a PITA, and on an AWD car, ya gots to put them on all four corners. Plus when wearing chains, your top speed is between 20 and 30 MPH depending on how much vibration you can tolerate. Cable chains are better in that respect, but not as good in deep snow.
I look forward to snow days; the only time you can pull a four-wheel drift on public streets, and nobody bats an eye :-D

 

Check out these tests. Modern studless tire are pretty equal to studded as far as snow and ice performance

And you don't ruin paved roads, and do not have a greatly reduced contact patch on clear pavement (braking in the rain) Cobalt studs slide across concrete and cols asphalt.
2021 Studless and Studded Winter Tyre Test - Tyre Reviews and Tests

Plus, you don't dump cobalt into the atmosphere, ok kill the people that mine cobalt, if that kind of thing matters to you

Studded winter tires cost more lives than they save, contribute to global conflict (phys.org)

 

There comes a point where, if snow is too deep, you are just not going to go. 10" of snow with good snow tires should be a piece of cake.

 

@StuartOffGrid Welcome to the forum.
What percent of your driving is highway vs. forest service road?

 

It's 2.5 miles down to the black top, another 5 into town. The dirt road up has a few sections with steep grades. My driveway being the worst. But If I can get the supplies to the drive, I don't mind snowshoeing the last bit. Last winter I had a couple storms where I was stuck for a couple of weeks. I'm just looking to take the edge off. We watch the weather like a hawk and run to town to get supplies when we see snow coming. Still, after two weeks, it always seems like I'm running low on wine and dogfood.

 

It seems to me you have two options.
An “all weather tire” highly rated for snow or another set of rims and tires dedicated to the winter season.

 

Outbacks are very capable, but it's the wrong vehicle for this. You need a Toyota Tacoma, with the off-road package that includes the locking rear differential. Get a set of true snow tires that are narrower than the stock size to get clearance for real chains to fit on the front. Have chains and tighteners for all four wheels. That'll be a nearly unstoppable combination. Drive it without locking the differential until you get stuck, then engage it to get unstuck. It's the extra insurance.

 

Stuart, what Radar sez ↑↑↑.
But if your state allows 'em, get yourself a set of junkyard rims, and put some studded winter tires on them. Run them from December thru March, or what ever your climate dictates. We generally get 3 seasons, probably 12-15K miles out of a set before the studs start going away, probably 90+ percent of that on dry pavement.
They will save your butt, trust me on this one; one good winter storm with studded tires on your AWD, and you will never go back. Look at it this way: If they save you from even one fender-bender, they've made up most of their cost in deductibles for your auto insurance.
I just looked: you have a newer car. Order a "Studded Winter Package" from Tire Rack or something. There won't be a studded tire that meets your "speed rating", and you might have a hard time finding a shop to do the mounts for you. Everybody has the "Liability" bug these days. But "S" vs "H"? 112 vs 130 MPH?!? When was the last time you hit 130MPH in your Outback? What. Ever.
The Missus commutes about 30 miles into Denver and back for work, 3-4 days a week. She has run studded tires on her 2016 Forester every winter since the car was new. Never any problems. They give her confidence that she will make it home in the snow no matter what. Worth every penny, mesay.
I've always run studded tires in the winter; I mean that's what they're for, isn't it? But I run 'em because I like driving on ice with studded tires. Too Much Fun.

 

10" is nothing for an Outback. Like Brucey and others have said. Just get some aggressive tires. And no, you don't need to buy a $50k Tacoma. Give me a break. You have an awesome, very capable machine already.

 

I have gad both 2002 Toyota Tundra v8 and 2011 Ourback 3.6. and 3 in lift. Outback went every where Tundra did. Now have 2.5 2015 out back. It is crap. Just did 300 WARRANTY WORK. the 2011 is still runnign great at 170K

 

We used to live in the Central Sierras of CA and had no problem with a bone-stock (except for improved RSB) 2011 Outback with "all-season" tires on it. I probably should have purchased dedicated snow tires (we lived on a hill and had a short, but steep driveway) for the times when the plows didn't make by to our place, but I drove that car with a foot of wet snow on the ground and had never got stuck.

 

IMO studs are for ice, not snow. Wonder what the snow depth record is for OB driving where no one has gone before? So far, I have gone through 17" on Blizzak 17" tires and been the first one through - no X mode or anything else. Talk about fun!

I wonder about the 25 degree slope. Not saying it's not true, but some people don't have an accurate impression of grades. I once heard a guy tell someone a local hill must be 15 or 20 degrees. Sign right at the top of the hill says 6% so that truckers know. If one really wants an accurate check over such an area, run a level horizontal and level string out. The farther the better as long as the string doesn't sag. Measure the drop to the ground over that length. If the numbers are 4' over 50' the slope is 8 degrees (rise / run * 100)

 

I think there is some common confusion with slope gradient and degrees.

A 100% grade is 45 degrees.

There is a seriously steep road I can visit that the trucker warning sign says 25% (from memory)

According to google it's closed now. I might have to check it out next time I'm in the area:

37.88828614333223, -82.03097774714446

 

Real_Deal, this is true up to a point.
However.
If you have to deal with deep snow on a regular basis, you will discover that the more or less flat underside of your Subaru will let you "float" out onto snow that is too deep for your tires, regardless of what kind of tires they are, to find anything to grip. Then you'd better have a shovel, and some spare time, 'cause you're gonna need it.
This can happen with a properly set-up 4X4 too, and when it does, you're really screwed, but it takes a lot more snow to cause that to happen, and a proper 4X4 with chains is fairly invulnerable; you really have to try to get one stuck. (And then you're stuck til something bigger comes along and pulls you out.)

 

Micron, you must not deal with snow on pavement very much. But the next time you encounter some, get out and try to dig down to asphalt. What do you find? Ice.
Oh, yeah; there is almost always a layer of ice under the snow. That is what the studs are for.

 

Micron, you must not deal with snow on pavement very much.

Maybe not as much as you, but we get our share in Ontario.

 

I'm in MN an I have steel rims with general altimax arctic. They are stud-able but do not come with studs. I guess you could stud them if you decided you need them at a later time but that would be a TON of effort and probably expensive.

I've tested the tires in fresh snow of about 6-8" and a grade I'd estimate at 15% - 20% and that was about the limit from a dead stop. I had some trouble but eventually clawed my way up.

At a minimum, I'd say get a good set of dedicated winter wheels/tires. Next would be a studded option. I'd say studded outback would walk all over a tacoma unless it had winter tires.

 

A "studded" Outback will assuredly drive right around a stuck 4X4 truck wearing all-seasons. Been there, done that, helped the truck driver get turned around and headed back into town.

 

This is my winter condition. I've dug through the forums looking for lift kit info and tire info. Most of the lift info talks about road handling and tech things regarding installation. The question I'd love answered is this, How much of a difference will a standard issue 2" kit and bigger wheels make in snow, uphill, on lousy road? Or do I just do the wheels/tires? I'm not an off roader as a hobby, but I do live off grid and my driveway is easily 25 degrees in spots. I often get stuck at the base of it in the winter.

2019 3.6R Bone stock.


oh, I do put the bands on.

When you lift it, there is still the rear suspension in the same place, less than 1/2 the tire height off. the road. A lift kit would let you use larger diameter tires. I did not do that because I don't know if the extra work it takes to move that extra diameter (it's sort of negative leverage) would be hard on the CVT. I have a 2.5.

 

@StuartOffGrid As a tire choice for a forest service road, give consideration to the Toyo Open Country A/T III .

Open Country A/T III | The All-Terrain Tires for Trucks, SUVs and CUVs

The Open Country A/T III has exceptional wet and dry braking and handling, great off-road traction, a quiet ride, great in snow and 127 sizes.

www.toyotires.com

 

I agree with the Toyo AT3; the newest Nokian Outpost looks pretty good, too. Both of those brands offer money back guarantees which makes it very easy to give them a try.

I've used the Nokian Encompass myself and highly recommend them, too. They're an all weather as opposed to a dedicated winter tire, so their compound still does great in the cold but doesn't melt in the summer. Lots of good choices out there.

 

I'm no snow-driving expert, but if you Google any footage of the Rally of Sweden, you'll see cars being driven very fast, very accurately, with terrific traction on very narrow chisel tyres. Admittedly, they usually have studs, but my understanding of it is that wide tyres aren't necessarily a good thing on snow. The general idea is that you want something that will bite down through the snow, not float over the top of it.

 

In the late 60's, mu older brother had a Model A. On cold snowy days, he could start it (mechanical spark advance and retard with levers) then drove past everyone because the narrow tall wheels got down to the pavement.

 

This is my winter condition. I've dug through the forums looking for lift kit info and tire info. Most of the lift info talks about road handling and tech things regarding installation. The question I'd love answered is this, How much of a difference will a standard issue 2" kit and bigger wheels make in snow, uphill, on lousy road? Or do I just do the wheels/tires? I'm not an off roader as a hobby, but I do live off grid and my driveway is easily 25 percent in spots. I often get stuck at the base of it in the winter.

2019 3.6R Bone stock.

Snow Tires & Chains will improve traction.in snow better than raising the clearance. Plowing the driveway is also necessity when off the grid.

 

Buy 4 wheels and four of the highest rated dedicated snow tires you can find, use them in the winter, and your Outback will eat 4X4 pickups and other AWD SUVs alive until it gets high centered (weight on the Outback's belly rather than the tires.)

 

We have 1400 foot driveway uphill and lots of snow (agv 90"/year). OB with stock tires, or Goodyear Assurance AS work fine. We pay a "plowboy" to plow us out, well worth the cost. Ice is our biggest problem, not snow. We can drive through 10 inches but glare ice is DANGEROUS!