Any shop would have access to proper brake fluid, nothing special here for Subaru. Trusted indie shop would be fine. Personally, I don’t completely flush mine, I just bleed out and replace ample fluid when I do brake jobs. Never had a problem in my 50+ years working on cars, but you may want to listen to feedback from others on the forum. You don’t do your own work, so you should probably just have the flush done.


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The quote of $140 for the brake fluid flush and replacement is probably a labor (plus fluid) charge for an hour +, in my opinion. It's not unreasonable these days where shop labor rates are running as high as $135 an hour.

 

That's high for what comes stock which is just run of the mill, cheap DOT 3, AFAIK. But, it's dealer service, so I'm not getting sticker shock. My indie Subaru shop only uses ATE Gold/200 which is a DOT 4 that's a bit more expensive (but cheap relative to, e.g., Motul). Pretty sure their flush price is in the $100-120 range.

 

Probably uses $7 of DOT3 or $10 of DOT4. That is the price for 1 quart at my O'Reilly.

Whiz-bang fancy brake fluid makes no difference if you are not racing. The higher the boiling point the most susceptible to moisture and the sooner you have to replace it. For this reason brake systems designed with high margin prefer DOT3.

I'd say get a test kit and check for moisture but a quart of brake fluid and my time to flush the system is cheaper. If I was an automobile service shop for hire then a $500 tester would not be unreasonable.

 

I want my ATE Super Blue back.

That is a bit high - I'd go with a local trusted shop for that stuff. Sometimes subaru runs specials where you get a coupon for so many $$ off a service, but I'm not sure it would bring that down to the local shop prices. Those are usually $20 or $25 coupons I think.

 

Whatever you do, ensure they are actually flushing the whole system and all the lines. Not just sucking out the reservoir and refilling that.

 

Thanks for the info guys. I'm just going to bite the bullet and have them do it.

 

I bought speed bleeders for my '15 (about $24 IIRC). That and a quart of fluid and it's a one man job.

 

Good leg work out too.

 

$140 is a standard fair price at most Subaru dealerships I'd imagine. That is what my Subaru dealership charges and our service is backed by a warranty for 30,000 miles and up to $4000 if the vehicle has under 75,000 miles when the service is first performed.

 

For less than the price of one brake flush I bought a Motive Power Bleeder and did it myself so I know I am getting a true flush and not just a turkey baster sucking the fluid out of the master cylinder and topping it back off. But honestly even the dealer price for the flush doesn't seem out of line at all.

 

If you have an air compressor Harbor Freight has a brake fluid sucker for under $40. I suck the reservoir dry. Fill with fresh fluid. Then go to the farthest corner and open the bleeder with my HF sucker attached and latched on. This gets things moving slowly. Then pump the brake pedal to move things quicker while watching the reservoir.

The HF kit comes with a bottle that is supposed to refill the reservoir but I lost mine before first use.

The Mighty-Vac hand pumps are woefully inadequate. The HF sucker and the cited Motion-Pro Motive Products pusher are great for getting the fluid in motion and keeping it in motion so that any bubble set in motion keeps moving without the opportunity to rise.

Helps a lot of have someone pump the brake while you watch at each wheel that the hose didn't fall off and to know when clean fluid starts coming out..

 

I agree that the dealer price sounds about the market rate. Nevertheless I will always favor using an independent Subaru specialist for a number of reasons:
In most cases you get to speak directly to the tech who is working on your car.
They will tell you what to look out for and the condition of the consumables without trying to up`sell you at every opportunity.
They see you as a long term customer not as a chance to make bonus this month.
I could go on...

 

The dealer “brake fluid change” is typically a drain and refill of the brake fluid reservoir ONLY (not a replacement of brake fluid and full bleed to remove all the old brake fluid).

An independent workshop will do the job properly even if it is the same cost.

By the way the current hourly labour rate at Subaru dealers in Australia is $176 per hour.

Seagrass

 

The dealer “brake fluid change” is typically a drain and refill of the brake fluid reservoir ONLY (not a replacement of brake fluid and full bleed to remove all the old brake fluid).

Not at any legitimate dealer.

 

Any thoughts on this?

Necessity is the mother of invention. You have the need, now do you have the motivation to learn how to do it yourself?

All you really need to do the job is a quart of new brake fluid, a wrench of suitable size to open the brake bleeders at each wheel, about 18" of clear vinyl hose of proper size to fit over the bleeder nipples, a jar for the brake fluid to drain, a roll of paper towels and a bottle of rubbing alcohol, and a helper.

Start by studying the location of the bleeders and decide whether you have to take the wheel off.

Is best to use something to suck all the old fluid out of the reservoir before starting. Then fill with fresh fluid. You will refill the reservoir many times. Put the old fluid in your jar.

I prefer to loosen the bleeder with a 6-point socket because far too many monkeys who came before me put it back too tight. 6 point socket is the best bet not to strip the bleeder. But once open it is best to hang a box-end wrench on the bleeder then attach the vinyl hose. Lightly close the loosened bleeder nipple.

Usually best to start at the farthest wheel, right rear, because the lines are the longest and probably best to get the most out first. All others will be quicker. Loosen the bleeder with 6-point socket, fit the box end wrench over the bleeder and attach hose. Other end of hose in your jar in the old fluid so that fluid is sucked up (not air) if a vacuum appears on your brake line.

Have your friend depress the brake pedal. Should be normal until you open the bleeder about 1/8th turn letting the brake pedal go to the floor. You will see fluid in the hose. When it stops lightly close the bleeder, shout to your friend to lift the pedal and pump again. Open the bleeder and let the pedal go to the floor again. Repeat until clean fluid appears. Watch the reservoir and do not let it get low.

Sometimes you don't have to close the bleeder between pumps. Some vehicles you do, others not. Having the jar with fluid in it when you start lets you see whether or not fluid is sucked up when the brake pedal is lifted.

When you have clean fluid at that wheel tighten the bleeder nipple just enough that it is not going to come loose on its own. Repeat for the other 3 wheels.

Is important to understand this procedure so that if you have the Motive Products or HF tools you know what is happening.

Motive Products pushes fresh fluid from the reservoir without pumping the brake pedal. Just go to each wheel, open the bleeder until clear fluid flows, close, repeat for each wheel.

The Harbor Freight suction bleeder doesn't suck hard enough to get the job done quickly but it serves as an excellent tool to suck the old fluid out the top of the reservoir and then to serve as the hose and jar at each wheel. No need to close the bleeder between brake pedal pumps. It will suck air around the bleeder nipple threads so it is not so good as a means of determining whether you had air in the brake lines. It also uses a lot of air from the air compressor. Little pancake compressors need not apply.

You will get a bit of brake fluid on your fingers. If you touch anything the brake fluid will etch your fingerprints forever. Rubbing alcohol is the best thing for cleaning your fingers. If you spill brake fluid quickly throw rubbing alcohol on it to minimize the damage to surfaces. You do not have time to run into the house to get rubbing alcohol.

 

(Old Thread wake up)



After reading the thread and this post in particular, I have decided to let an independent shop do the job. Fortunately, this thread allowed me to ask the proper questions.

 

Recently paid just under $100 CDN at a local firestone shop on my daughter's civic, and that was a flush, not just a drain and fill. A 3rd year apprentice can do it, so it does not have to be shop rate.

 

The apprentice does it and the shop charges full rate. That's how the shop makes their margin.

 

And here I have never changed brake fluid in any of my cars- Never had a problem, I still have a 2008 Subaru Legacy that has the original fluid - no problems, yes it only has 45,000 miles on it but its old.

 

Same. Never in any of my cars going back 24 years.

 

It’s a reasonable price but it’s something I would trust any shop to do so just go the cheaper route for this. There’s nothing special about subarus braking system

 

Bottle of brake fluid - large $10 or less for DOT4

wife: free

total time using jack and jack stands 1 hour or less.

i bleed my fluid out completely when I do my brakes starting at the right front and going all the way around the car. when I am done fluid is clear

 

i bleed my fluid out completely when I do my brakes starting at the right front and going all the way around the car. when I am done fluid is clear

If you are saying you drain the system then refill, that is a terrible idea. The path from master cylinder to brake caliper is hilly, ups and downs. Air bubbles like to collect at high points and are very hard to push down and out. The only dependable way to get them out is to use a power flush system such as the Motive Products. Pushes fluid in and down from the top continuously without stopping as happens when one pumps the brake. A vacuum is formed when the brake pedal lifts. The air bubble pushed down rushes right back to where it was. It never comes out pumping.

The safe and sure way is to flush the system. Use new brake fluid to push the old out. Sure, there is some waste but the unused portion of the quart/liter bottle is waste unless you do another car in the next few days.

 

It depends on the fluid. We only use dot 4 mixed with orphans tears. That jacks the price up.

 

I prefer unicorn tears.

 

Brake fluid is hydroscopic. It absorbs moisture. It must be periodically changed.

 

I totally agree its a good idea to do this, I just never have- I should add this to the list !

 

Where I live shop time is $150/hr, with book rate used to calculate the number of hours for a job.
Jobs like brake fluid flush may be done "at a loss," but IME those shops are hoping to find more work to do that will increase the bill. Same idea with the $29 home HVAC tuneup, they are only there to sell you more work.
I'd happily pay the $150 for brake fluid flush in my area, if the shop is competent and honest.

 

I have been driving for 70 years and have never flushed break fluid. Never heard of a break system failing for that reason. Only time I have ever removed fluid is during a break job and that never results in a complete flush.

 

That’s fair. It’s about a one hour job so a “shop rate” of $90/hr plus materials is fair.

 

I asked my Dad for help changing Brake fluid on my 1993 Loyale at 36k miles. He pooh poohed the idea. “Never done it, never had a problem”. Soon after, he lost a caliper. Then a master cylinder on another vehicle. Then “spongy pedal”. I now help him change his brake fluid every three years. 🤗

 

I now help him change his brake fluid every three years. 🤗

A reasonable service interval specified by many vehicle manufacturers is 4 years on the initial flush then 2 years thereafter. Some simply say every 2 years.

 

Too high. The last time I had brake service at a local LEs Schwab tire shop done, they charged $60.

 

Too high. The last time I had brake service at a local LEs Schwab tire shop done, they charged $60.

They probably made enough to buy a new turkey baster for the part-time kid who comes in after school.

 

So I'm around my 30k mile mark on my car.....but not sure if I should stick to Subaru since they'd probably use the proper Subaru fluid for our cars.

Any thoughts on this?

Depending on the hourly rate at your dealership...yeah, $140 wouldn't surprise me. I personally wouldn't pay that, I'd do it myself, but that amount could be in the ballpark.

If you go to the local independent shop, they will probably use the correct DOT3 (or DOT 4 is you're currently using that). I don't think that's something you'd need to worry about. Especially if you clarify beforehand (in writing).

Just be sure they know that the correct Subaru bleed sequence is not the "standard," start farthest from the reservoir and work to the closest. They certainly have access to Suby FSM, but since a brake fluid replacement is "easy", I doubt they actually look at it when doing this service.

From the 2019 FSM (which, for this procedure, I'm sure would be the same for your '17), this is the correct bleed sequence:

(I don't think there'd be any substantial, detrimental effect of a less-than-optimal sequence, but why not do it correctly when you know it?)

 

From the 2019 FSM (which, for this procedure, I'm sure would be the same for your '17), this is the correct bleed sequence:

View attachment 522093

(I don't think there'd be any substantial, detrimental effect of a less-than-optimal sequence, but why not do it correctly when you know it?)

From the '15 FSM... ¯\(ツ)/¯ Oddly the procedure changed to what you list for the '19 in 2016...