For best results go with OEM axles. If aftermarket look at NAPA new or reman with a good warranty

 

When I was putting axles on my 08, Napa was selling axles reman by Cardone, same brand that Autozone uses for reman. I had bad experience with them, so next time I would either rebuild myself or go OEM.

 

That may be covered with powertrain warranty, assuming you're not over. Or extended warranty.
Definitely OEM unless you want to gamble a rattling noise when at idle (i.e. every red light!).

Have you eliminated the ball joint and bushings as sources? Would rather suck to do half axle and it not be there problem.

 

That may be covered with powertrain warranty, assuming you're not over. Or extended warranty.
Definitely OEM unless you want to gamble a rattling noise when at idle (i.e. every red light!).

Have you eliminated the ball joint and bushings as sources? Would rather suck to do half axle and it not be there problem.

I'm way over. I'm at 95k. Pretty sure is CV axel. Only noticed when I had radio off and making tight turn to right. Don't notice any else while driving.
I'll stick with OEM. Thanks for advice.

 

get under the car take a look at the boots if they are torn there is a good chance you will need to replace the boot and axle grease. i will say if your going to do that i would just suggest spend the extra money and replace the axle. i replaced both of mine in about 4 hours. i will say that the most frustrating thing is if you get an after market axle there is a good chance the spring pin may not go in because the holes may not line up right (my issue) i posted what i went threw on my repair log. also a great video from a youtuber that is detailed about doing work on outbacks.

also if possible take your axle with you when you go to pick up the part because when i bought mine they gave me the rear axle which has a male spline not a female spline.

 

Both of mine were replaced under warranty at 63K miles by local dealership.

Work order does not specify which parts were used and I didn't scrutinize.

Jason

 

When I replace my axles, I always go with brand new Subaru Genuine Axles. If you do order directly from subaru, make sure you order a replacement axles nut at the same time, My first time I did not know they came separate. It is not a good idea to reuse the nut.

 

So I had to replace both my axles at 115k on my 2016 2.5i limited, I was receiving a clicking noise while turning it was very hard to pinpoint which side it was coming from. I called every local parts store including NAPA at the time which was 9/2019 and none offer a replacement axle at the time. I called reman axle company and they told me they did not rebuild them yet but they were receiving a lot of calls on 2015-16 Outbacks and Legacys. Called all the dealers close to my house and got all different prices ranging from $400-$600 each. Called my local salvage yard that has a good reputation for late model vehicle parts and got my hands on two axles with 40k miles on them for $99 each and 30 day warranty. Put them in and have not had any problems with the axles since with 145k on the car now. I do recommend picking up two new ball joints when you do the job ($88 from my local Subaru Dealer for both). I damaged them when breaking loose the control arm even after using the proper ball joint separating tool. Overall the job took me about an entire afternoon the axles popped right out after I removed the steering knuckles (to replaced damaged ball joints). I think the ball joints were more of a pita then the axles probably due to our Wisconsin winters. Just my two cents worth take it for what it is. Here are some pictures of the job probably have enough for a DIY if I wanted to but the job is pretty straight forward, this Outback has been one of easiest cars I have ever worked on.

 

Thanks for the photos, etc.
Fellow Wisconsinite here, wondering what salvage yard you used?

 

Junkyard,

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I also recommend you use anti-seize compound on all the threads going back together. Even the lug nuts.

 

Anti-seize is good for most fasteners i

Anti-seize makes sense for most fasteners especially vehicles in the rust belt. I don’t use anti-seize on the lug nuts but ymmv.

 

Thanks for catching that. Brain cells crossed and it should have been... uneven forces, [edit to add: or too much force,] can cause rotor probs.