So the good news is that the ebay link you provided looks like they are selling legit Subaru sensors made by Schrader hard coded for the older 315 MHz system. Any tire store should be able to REGISTER them to your 2014 Outback.

The unknown is exactly how old these unit are. Even if they have never been woken up from a deep sleep (activated), old batteries are still old batteries, and their useful life could be limited. There may be date code information on them, but I can't read it.

The alternative would be to pass on new old stock produced for Subaru by the OEM supplier, and instead look for new blank programmable sensors that can be coded up to perform like Subaru sensors. If you are interested, the best way to ensure you get new stuff is to look for Schrader/Sensata's latest programmable part number and buy those. If this is of interest to you, I'll do some homework for you.

 

I see the OEM TPMS sensor is potted in the back and I don't see any seams.. I'm guessing the battery is not replaceable on these sensors?

Following this topic since I'm going to have to swap TPMS from my OEM wheels to a new set I bought, but my OEM wheels are 10 years old so I don't know if I should just get new sensors with hopefully new batteries.

Side question: does registering the TPMS sensors to the vehicle's TPMS module require the sensor to be physically accessible or does a TPMS programming tool just scan the vicinity for 315MHz waves?

 

I've been waiting for SOMEONE out there to shake up the industry and introduce a sensor where users could change the battery! But I've been waiting now for nearly 20 years in vain. I guess there's too much money to be had in selling you a new sensor rather than a coin cell battery....

I would not redeploy 10 year old sensors. Before your new tires are replaced you'll way too likely be plagued by a flashing dash light advising you one or more are toast.

Registering is done by scanning the 4 sensors one at a time and capturing the hex ID code that each broadcasts and verifying that they are written with the correct protocol for your vehicle. The tool stores hundreds of vehicle codes that gets updated annually. You call up the vehicle by year and region, the tool then pings each sensor and looks for the correct response. Assuming all pass, the tool now has the data it needs. You then plug the tool into the OBD port and upload (REGISTER) that data to the vehicle TPMS module. The tool and the vehicle then go thru a verification and DTC reporting process, and either tell you it fails for some reason, or all is technically good. You then drive to sync everything up.

This is the unit I have: MaxiTPMS TS508 It has all the basics you will ever need. It can also be used to program (create) vehicle-specific sensors from blanks, but is proprietary in that respect. You have to buy Autel blanks. There are universal blank sensor writers, but they cost too much for us casual hobbyists.

 

I've been waiting for SOMEONE out there to shake up the industry and introduce a sensor where users could change the battery!

My expectation is that they could eliminate the battery altogether, and just have the wheel rotation generate enough power to operate it. We've had auto-wind wristwatches since 1926, after all!

 

That's really annoying for a casual hobbyist. No wonder tire shops can maintain business.

I have access to mount/balancer but need to figure out what to do regarding TPMS. Given my luck, the TPMS has actually helped me more often than not so I desire to keep the system working rather than just covering the light with electrical tape on my cluster.

Thanks for the info.. I'll do more research on an affordable option..

 

I have access to mount/balancer but need to figure out what to do regarding TPMS.

You and I need to get together and share equipment!

Same on the benefit of TPMS. My wife even hit a bit of debris on the Interstate and sliced a tire. TPMS gave her quick enough warning that she was able to pull off the highway before the tire was totally flat. The tire was done, but the rim wasn't damaged, so that was disaster averted. I wouldn't drive without it.

 

If you're a member - Costco. Last year they did all 4 on my '07 for $250 including tax. Good thing I replaced them, yesterday I picked up a screw in the back left and the light came on. When stopping for lunch the tire still had air. After lunch the tire was totally flat, but fixable.

 

So far as I can tell my 2010's are still going strong. Never been changed.

 

That's great Cozmo85, but I'm not so lucky. My 2014 has just over 51,000 miles (and had <36,000 when I bought it in 09/20) and I'm "not sure" the batteries are bad but I get an 8-10 (I never count the number of blinks) series of blinks, then the TPMS light stays on. I've read on this Forum this mean that a TPMS(s) is "bad," which "to me" means the battery(ies) are low/bad. It could mean the electronics are bad, but either item (electronics or battery) are bad and it need to be replaced. Rather that try to figure out which one is bad, I'm simply going to replace all of them when I put new tires on.

 

Update on Subaru TPMS from eBay seller: He stated they're current inventory, within 8 months-old.

 

Is a rebalance required when replacing TPMS, or do they build them to a standard weight?

 

Because you asked.... I had to go measure!

I have a set of Subaru/Schrader bodies from older Forester wheels. 28103SA002 sensors. They weigh 15 grams. The rubber stems add 14 grams for 29 total.

Autel MX dual frequency programmable sensors (around 2020 vintage) weigh 11 grams. The alloy valve stems weigh 12 grams for 23 grams total.

So at worst you'd be one 1/4 oz (approx 7 gms) stick-on square off?

 

I was going to suggest looking for a dealer that has the Schrader EZ-Sensor Go (33560) blank programmables, as that's one of the latest all-purpose sensors to be introduced, guaranteeing you fresh modules. But they aren't cheap...

Give the assurance of fresh stock from that ebay seller, you'd be very hard pressed to beat that price. Simply 'rebuilding' (service kit of a new valve assembly) your current 8+ year old sensors will cost you $20-25, so you are looking at $50 net to go all new. I'd go for it.

 

Give the assurance of fresh stock from that ebay seller, you'd be very hard pressed to beat that price. Simply 'rebuilding' (service kit of a new valve assembly) your current 8+ year old sensors will cost you $20-25, so you are looking at $50 net to go all new. I'd go for it.

Thanks for the feedback Fibber2, I greatly appreciate it!

 

[Discount Tire . com wants $60 each for TPMS and that just seems high to me; although I'm sure they're MUCH more money at a Subaru Dealer]


But - still need to know if Discount Tire, versus Dealership can program these.

I got the same quote for tpms sensors for my new wheels. I decided to purchase the Autel TS508 for $223 and 4 Autel TPMS Sensor MX-Sensor, 315MHz + 433MHz Dual Frequency sensors with rubber valve stems for $95. This has allowed me to clone the existing tpms sensors on my OB. The entire process was very intuitive. I got a fairly good deal on Amazon as a black Friday special. I realize that I paid more for this approach, but I like the idea of having some control going forward. I think I could also easily sell the TS508 if desired. One limitation of the Autel TS508 is that you are locked into only buying Autel sensors going forward. The sensors are available with metal stems or rubber stems.

 

I decided to purchase the Autel TS508 for $223 and 4 Autel TPMS Sensor MX-Sensor, 315MHz + 433MHz Dual Frequency sensors with rubber valve stems for $95.

I'm curious... did you buy the MX sensors with the 'press-fit / snap-in' rubber valve stems or the screw-in rubber valve stems? There were two different MX bodies.

I went with the screw-in stems, and it seems to have been a MAJOR mistake. Autel discontinued the screw-in style and is no longer selling the replacement valves for them. And of course as everything-Autel is proprietary, stems from other suppliers (Schrader, Dill, Standard, etc.) will not fit! I already yelled at them on the phone about this last year.

 

The Autel sensors I purchased use the snap in style metal or rubber valve stems. They also include threads allowing for a screw in option as well. Not sure whether aftermarket valve stems would fit properly or not. I initially purchased the sensors with metal stems. I decided that I would prefer rubber stems, so I reordered just the stems. I feel more confident that the rubber stem will maintain a more reliable seal at the rim. This is what they look like.

 

I went to a parts house and tried a few other stems, but the brass part is either too narrow or too short to make a good fit to their body. If I get desperate enough, I'll fill the cavity under the little metal plate with a bit of epoxy and then drill the right sized hole to fit a standard available valve. But I shouldn't have to go to these extremes. I expect a company like Autel to support it's customer base after they buy into their system!

I may try calling them again and vent my anger. It probably won't help, but I need to raise my blood pressure and this seems like a good way to accomplish that! Then I can pop more pills to bring it back down....

 

Did mine on the cheap, in my driveway, just before getting new tires. Really a now loss option for me as the '13-'14 wheels I picked up to replace my steelies had bad sensors. Lived with the light for a year, so it was either going to work or not.
Costco will not install customer supplied TPMS sensors, so picked up the set linked below, broke the bead and removed/replaced all 4. Then I had them registered at a local tire shop for a nominal fee. Been good for 15 months now.

Cheap TPMS

 

Ran over a screw on new years eve and sure enough, the TPMS light saved me again. Living in NYC means more crap on the road.

I think I'll just go one by one and break the bead on my current tires to read the sensor ID's. I think my best bet is to get the ID's, then clone them on to new sensors from TPMS.com and be done. No need for me to buy a TPMS tool since I'll only have one set of wheels. In the end I still come out on top.

Schrader 33500 EZ Sensor - Subaru Schrader 33500 EZ Sensor TPMS Sensor Set 28103-AG00A, 28103-AG01A, 28103-AG01B, 28103-AG01C, 28103-AJ00A, 28103-SG000, 28103-SG010, 28103-SA001, 28103-SA002, 28103AG00A, 28103AG01A, 28103AG01B, 28103AG01C, 28103AJ00A, 281

 

There are a few services out there that will ship you a tool for reading out your hex ID, you return the tool to them and they make you cloned sensors.

Or just hit your local tire shop on a slow day and slip the kid a $10 for him to read them out with his handheld. It takes all of 5 minutes. A lot less labor than breaking the bead to physically view each one.

 

Yes I was able to go to the local STS tire and a tech was kind enough to help me for free and I gave him a small tip. One step done, now off to TPMS.com to clone a set of sensors for me.

And you truly are a TPMS guru! Found another post on a Sienna forum by you with more TPMS info!

 

my sensors are approaching 14 years old on my outback and 10 years old on my legacy. when they die, i will replace them with new OEM ones.

 

You might want to rethink that....

Subaru sensors are made by Schrader/Sensata. I believe the last ROM code written 315 MHz units went into new Subaru vehicles in 2018, so we are now into an occasional-order replacement stock maintenance mode now. Your parts counter guy could hand you New Old Stock that was 5 years old, or even older. Never woken up, but 5 year old batteries non-the-less.

By contrast, Schrader is mainly making blank re-writeable sensors today. I believe the 33560 is the most recent model. Specifying a new design gets you the lowest power consumption part (latest chipset) with fresh batteries.

And I'll bet they are considerably cheaper without the dealer markup for a better product.

 

^^ Agreed.

 

That would indeed be a great price for OEM TPMS sensors manufactured within the past year or two. But not for sensors that have been sitting on a shelf in a warehouse for five years or more. I would want to know the manufactured date before ordering them.

 

Given that the amount of power needed is very small, it's possible that it could be done. But at what cost? A few pounds of additional unsprung weight to produce sufficient flux 2 inches away? And now your wheel choices would be limited by the need to keep things as tight as possible. Yes, it could work, but so many downsides.

Wouldn't just making the batteries service tech replaceable solve the problem - easy and cheap solution?

Here's the old style 28103xxxxx. What could be more simple than either a larger coin cell battery (higher current capacity for longer life) or an access port for replacement?

 

This is the modern replacement that I've been suggesting. The individual parts count is way down as functions of individual components has been integrated into the main ASIC. Note the hole in the quad flat pack. The pressure transducer is in there too! No longer a separate component. Heterogeneous integration. Lower operating power, higher transmission power.

The downside is that it's a blank programmable - one unit serves almost any vehicle out there, 315 or 433 MHz. The service tech needs to tell it to be a Subaru sensor, which takes about 30 seconds per sensor to do. Just like the blank Autel sensors I buy and program at home with my TS508 handheld. The prices have dropped a lot too. I see these below $30 each. Not as cheap yet as old Schrader stock that's potentially been on the shelf for years, but for the extra few $$ you are getting fresh meat. I like fresh....

 

We have two vehicles with TPMS (my 2013 3.6R and my wife's 2015 Lexus RX350) and two vehicles without TPMS (my 1999 Ram and my wife's 2006 Jaguar XK8). I prefer NOT having to deal with TPMS. But I check all of our tire pressures every weekend and have been doing so since 1974. Works for me.

 

I prefer NOT having to deal with TPMS. But I check all of our tire pressures every weekend and having been doing so since 1974. Works for me.

Until the day when you pick up something on the road and you damage a rim when it deflates. Or worse. I've yet to master the art of checking tire pressure while driving....

 

What's not to love? Excessive cost x four wheels, and inability to replace just the battery.

I still prefer my trusty digital tire gauge.

 

I have an Accutire digital in every one of our vehicles, and one near my compressor. TPMS is for crisis, not maintenance, although it does help those that aren't too up on the fact that cars need maintenance....

Educate yourself, and you'll find that the cost can be pretty nominal. For the benefit it provides to you, your wife and your kids, the small every few years inconvenience is worth it.

 

Several years ago, I picked up a nail in one of my 3.6R's tires. The tire lost 8 to 9 psi overnight while the TPMS system snoozed away and never caught it. The next morning I noticed that tire looked to be underinflated and sure enough, my trusty digital tire gauge showed me that it was. That incident soured me on TPMS.

 

I find this extremely hard to believe as I have a 3.6R and if the tire pressure dips that low on my car, the light is set eiither when the car is started OR within a few hundred feet of driving. The system has yet to fail to detect such a large PSI difference. I keep my tires at 35 PSI and the light will come on when once reaches 29 PSI. I check my tires about every 2 weeks

 

Is there anyway to turn off the TPMS indicator in software in Subarus? My sis has a 12 year old Ford Escape with 18,000(!) miles on it and at least one of the senders has failed. For grins I looked for a way to disable the TPMS light for her and found that the free Forscan software can do it with the right dongle. How about that? Anything known for Subaru?

 

Black electrical tape would be the easiest option.

 

Fibber2,

I should have further explained that after checking that tire with my digital gauge, I cranked up the ignition and left it on for a few minutes to see if the TPMS system had triggered. It had not. No warning lights on the dash at all, and I remember being very disappointed that this "feature" had not activated. I did not move the vehicle. I jacked up the tire, removed it, tossed it in the back of my Ram and took it to my local Discount Tire to have it properly patched and rebalanced. Would the TPMS system have activated if I had driven the vehicle? I do not know and was not willing to find out.


YeuEmMaiMai,

I have been a member of various automotive forums for nearly 20 years now and I always report my various experiences exactly as they occur. Quite frankly, I do not care whether you believe me or not.

 

Fibber2,

I should have further explained that after checking that tire with my digital gauge, I cranked up the ignition and left it on for a few minutes to see if the TPMS system had triggered. It had not. No warning lights on the dash at all, and I remember being very disappointed that this "feature" had not activated. I did not move the vehicle. I jacked up the tire, removed it, tossed it in the back of my Ram and took it to my local Discount Tire to have it properly patched and rebalanced. Would the TPMS system have activated if I had driven the vehicle? I do not know and was not willing to find out.

For most if not all vehicles the car must move before the TPMS sensors will start transmitting.