2006 Subaru Outback 2.5

 

Bring it back, have them read the code that's causing the check engine light (CEL) to be on, report it here (code number), and get some advice on how to proceed. (The garage might recognize the problem as being related to what was done and correct it right there.)

Or, use the technique in this thread to find the codes: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...self-illustrated-guides/19053-06-09-how-read-diagnostic-trouble-codes-dtcs.html

Whenever the CEL is on the cruise control is automatically disabled and the warning light will flash. It's probably not a fault with the cruise control.

When the battery is disconnected, the engine control module loses memorized adjustments it has "learned" to keep the engine operating at it's best. In some cases, this results in poor starting or idling after the battery is reconnected, but the symptoms should clear after the car is allowed to just idle for some time before being driven.

The CEL being on after a battery change is not common in that model, so it's best to check the codes. The garage might have disconnected something, or a fuse has blown, and that function is not working properly.

 

Thank you for the feedback...very helpful...I will follow-up with the garage on the codes....would that also cause it to hesitate to start after putting a new battery...before replacing the battery my car started with no problem

 

Completely normal for the 1st start after reconnecting the battery. Mind you, the first successful start. If you give up before it catches, you'll still have to crank it a while.

Sometimes mine will need an extra moment of cranking in the next few starts after but it's usually just the first one that takes longer. Probably owing to the imperfect idle from the default condition.

Once the car has been driven around a bit, starts should be the way they were, the idle will smooth out and this minor nuisance will be a memory.

It's unusual to get a check-engine light in conjunction with this, but not too weird. I would read the code, make note of it, clear it and see if it re-occurred before getting worried.

 

the car may have incomplete monitors and is still 'learning'.

quite possible that the error code will clear iteslf and the car start/run better in a day or 2.

still, the shop could have damaked a wire or sensor and having the code(s) read is not a bad idea.

BTW - many people have smartphones these days. A free version of the Torque app and an elm327 BT adapter ($6 to $15 or so) will let you read codes and monitor engine parameters.

 

Reviving old thread, because I had a similar thing yesterday.

I have a 2005 Subaru Outback 2.5 XT, and had the battery (which had been very sluggish on starting recently) replaced at Pep Boys yesterday. It started up just fine after the battery was replaced, but immediately got the CEL light on with the cruise light flashing. I had them read the codes: P0102 (MAF Circuit Low Input) and P0113 (Intake Air Temp Circuit High Input).

The guy at Pep Boys said that the codes are unrelated to the battery replacement, and that they probably showed up because the computer is re-learning after the battery replacement. I'm planning to bring it to my local garage in the next couple days, but wondering if anyone has any thoughts on this.

Other than the battery issue, the car has been running fine lately, and I didn't notice any issues on my drive home from Pep Boys.

 

Check the connector at the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor on the air intake (just after the box that contains the engine air filter). It might have been dislodged during the work even though, in changing the battery, there was no reason to do anything on that side of the engine compartment.

 

That's a bit beyond my comfort level, especially with the snowstorm we're having today. I'm just about due for an oil change, though, so I'll take it to my regular mechanic, and ask them to check to see if the MAF is plugged in properly.

Thanks for the suggestion.

 

I have read numerous accounts of similar occurrences, and it happened to me yesterday. My '07 Legacy needed a new battery and rather than fight with the sometimes finicky battery hold-down, I went to a nearby auto parts store to have it replaced. My mistake was allowing them to plug a power supply into my OBD 2 port. I left with a MIL and a flashing cruise light.

After checking the forums, I found that it was likely a blown fuse in the engine compartment. What I found strangest is that I was unable to locate the faulty fuse with an ohmmeter. I had to use a voltage drop test to find the culprit.

It's those things that make ya go "hmmmm......"

 

. . .What I found strangest is that I was unable to locate the faulty fuse with an ohmmeter. I had to use a voltage drop test to find the culprit. . . . "

What was the problem using the ohmmeter? Were you measuring across the fuse while it was plugged in?

 

I am about to look for a bad fuse for a pair of codes myself. In case I need to use an ohm meter, what is the voltage drop test?

 

To answer your question, I ground the negative lead of my volt meter at the negative batt. post, and measure voltage on both sides of the fuse. Equal voltage on each side means fuse is good. +/- 13 volts on one side and significantly lower on the other means fuse is open.

Hope your project goes well.

 

You're right, OM. The fuse was plugged into the block with ign. off.

 

So one side had 12 V, the other goes to the ECM which is essentially a high resistance connection to ground. Yes, ohmmeters don't like to work in a voltage environment! (Best to remove the fuse to test it for resistance/continuity.) The voltage measurement, or a test light, gets around that. Just thought this should be clarified for others. Thanks.

 

Thanks for the clarification.

 

Is there any way to maintain current while swapping out the battery, like with some wires running from the old battery to the battery cables? I'd think so, especially if the old battery is also equipped with holes for side mount posts: run wires from those side posts to the battery post clamps, remove the clamps from old battery and put it aside, put the new battery in place, attach the cables to the new battery, then remove the wires to the old battery. Also, Energizer and Duracell make small 12V batteries: since it wouldn't take long to install the new battery, they might suffice. Or how about a 9-volt battery: would that be enough voltage to allow the car to keep its settings?