I would suspect either one and get it to the dealer and get a confirmation of your suspicion...and...even though it’s past the extended tranny warranty...try to get it at least some of it covered...it’s worth a try..

 

I would suspect either one and get it to the dealer and get a confirmation of your suspicion...and...even though it’s past the extended tranny warrantee...try to get it at least some of it covered...it’s worth a try.

Actually... It's NOT past the extended transmission warranty. That covered for 10/100K or 1 year from the letter, whichever was longer. The letter came in July/Aug. so the OP should still be able to get repairs under that warranty.

 

120k

So first off my cvt was clearly smoother after the 60k drain fill.
Unless you have access to your Subaru vin records you cant tell if its ever been serviced.

120K on a cvt no fresh fluid its on borrowed time.

Get your hands on the vin data from Subaru find out if the fluid was serviced if ever. 120k its due for another drain fill.

 

Check your fuel pressure. I had to replace our fuel pump at 50k with symptoms like your describing. What is your current mpg? On the vibrations, check your drive line mounts(trans, motor, center). I replaced all of those mounts and cured our car of all it's vibrations and clunks. I agree with the other poster, a CVT fluid change is probably in order at 120k.
Regards

 

update



Today the car started to make small "jumps" while driving at 40 mph with a steady foot on the pedal. It certainly looks more and more like a fuel pressure thing. also, I noticed that when starting from stop with "heavy" foot on the pedal, the car would go with no problem. but with "light" foot- It will make a big "hick-up". So it's also indicating that with anough fuel pressure- no problem.

only thing that puzzles me: why on M mode and light foot it will go fine? if I have to guess: on M mode the CVT is less sensitive for lack of fuel pressure...

 

Cvt fluid drain fill needs to be very specific fluid and done in a manner that makes shure the fluid level is exact or damage risk is very real. The level check process isn’t hard but must be done correctly putting in what came out is not correct.

 

OP, I just had your problem fixed by the dealer. I first had the torque converter replaced under the extended warranty 2 weeks ago and the shuddering and stalling came back immediately. Then I brought it in again and they kept the vehicle for 2.5 days while I cruised around in a 2018 Crosstrek at first and then a 2018 Forester. I have to say I preferred the Crosstrek, although the giant rear window on the Forester is amazing. Anyhow, over those few days they monitored and drove the Outback while waiting for SOA's response regarding the matter. They cleaned the throttle body out and it cured the problem. I just drove it on the freeway and it drives so good. I would suspect you are correct in regard to throttle body/valve body/torque converter. Bring it to the dealer before July because you are covered under the warranty extension for CVT/torque converter work.

 

I had my 2014 OB in to flush the cvt at around 78000 Start of Jan 2018. I have same shudder/ vibration at low speeds. I got the letter regarding the cvt and the torque converter. Dealer could not give me any answers on how they could check the converter despite being a known problem. After four days they claim they could not replicate the shudder (among the other issue I took it in for-difficulty with cold starts). So since they claim they couldn’t duplicate the shudder (only happens at low speed below 18 mph for me with minimal depression of accelerator pedal) they couldn’t check the torque converter. Can anyone explain if there is a way to test it? What is the dealer supposed to be doing/ looking for besides the shudder? I think it’s a crap response I got and feel they didn’t try to replicate anything in hopes I burn past the mileage limit.

 

OK, final results:
1. after few weeks, driving with the problem as described at the first post of this thread, finaly the "check engine" light flashes, and temp oil red light flashes too.
the code check:
"solenoid malfunction" (P2762) at the cvt. that cured the problem for 900 US$ including 250$ oil fluid. driving few weeks now, no problems, gear is even more responsive now.
so:
1. staling after stoping = tourqe convertor
2. hassitation and kick when start moving = solenoid

One problem: Subaru dos'nt yet offer the extended warenty in Israel!
thinking for forcing them to, legaly.

How can i prove that i have the same CVT trans as at the US? is there a "Gear Guide" somewhere?
It's a 2.5 liter 2011.
Thanks!

 

Thank You for following up. Closing the loop. I am sure this will be helpful to others.

 

Hello,
I'm currently experiencing similar symptoms in my gen 5 2016 outback 2.5 limited: dip in baseline idle after braking to a stop and rough/too low idle.
I'm cleaned MAF, replaced air filter and had dealer apply all ECU updates and clean throttle body, but it's still doing it.

My questions are:

1. Can someone point me to where and how I get at the relevant connection for the solenoid to test the Ohmage (my understanding is that on a TR580 this should be around 13ohms and the valve body is accessed from the top) so I can be sure that's not the issue.
2. In the attached image can someone tell me what's inside that plastic box without a securing bolt? I'm fresh back from the dealer and convinced they missed adding that bolt back in.

Thanks