I remember someone mentioning the same thing (about the backs being different) but the reasoning was the electric parking brake. I would think that it wouldn't affect the pads (due to it being actuated much before), but I can't be 100% sure.

 

 

From the procedure provided in this thread, it asks to use the Subaru Select Monitor to set the brake in maintenance mode. I guess the maintenance mode retracts the rear break motor. Does anyone know which affordable system to use to do the same thing (retract the rear brake motor)? I am planning to replace the rear brake pads on my 2015 Subaru Legacy (Outback) soon.

 

Are you beyond the 36k mile warranty? I believe it's been stated several times that the brake pads are a wear item under warranty and can be replaced under warranty, except in abusive driving situations.

 

No but I hit 21K this month which is I why I started thinking about them. So how long should the brake pads last on my subie?

 

My 2011 is just about to 50K miles and I think it's about time for new pads (hearing a grinding as I come to a stop). I won't get a chance to have them checked out for around a week though.

 

Do somebody knows if you can push the rear piston caliper (using a c-clamp) without damaging the parking brake electric motor?

 

This is from the 2016 Outback Factory Service Manual. It appears to me that you can. Information at the very end of the file.

 

pictures show what looks like a rather normal looking caliper with nothing preventing a normal c clamp from working, if they are pressed in pistons. a google/ebay search will bring some up.

 

I have not done brakes on my Subaru, but the ******* in me uses a big screwdriver and the old brake pads to push the pistons back. Did that this morning on my Yamaha FJR1300 when I removed and reinstalled the front wheel using old brake pads. Calipers have to come off, left and right, because the space between is only about 1/3rd the width of the wheel.

On automobiles use the screwdriver between outside pad and outside caliper before removing from disc. Caliper comes off the disc easier when piston(s) are retracted.

 

Ya know....when you get your pads replaced, you can replace them with 'lifetime' pads.

Why don't car makers install 'lifetime' pads at the factory?

 

Ya know....when you get your pads replaced, you can replace them with 'lifetime' pads.

Why don't car makers install 'lifetime' pads at the factory?

LIFETIME doesn't mean that one set of pads lasts forever, just that if you take them down to .0001-.0003" (exaggeration) they will supply a new set of pads. Not labor. In my experience. I am amazed somebody thinks pads need replacing at 25k - I've had Honda pads last well over 100k!

 

The Select Monitor operates the MC/ABS, per the 'Note' instructions it's not required. As for releasing the p-brake, you only do so when you remove the rotor, which you don't need to replace pads.
Go to Harbor Freight for an $8 piston compressor similar to the illustration.

 

This may be the case for 2014 or earlier Outback/Legacy. From 2015+, the rear break does not come with break shoes anymore, and it only has break pads. More importantly, 2015+ rear break has a motor gear like some European brands, e.g., Audi/VW, Volvo, etc.:

REAR BRAKE.. Fits: 2015 Subaru Legacy Limited Sedan w/EyeSight 2.5L CVT 4WD | Subaru Parts Online

To my understanding, the motor needs to be retracted before piston clamp can be used. Can someone offer some advises on this, especially on the rear break job on 2015+?

 

I have 120000km and brake is still strong. Mine you I got lots Hwy driving.

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Rear Pads

I tried to change the rear pads today, I could not. I was not able to push the piston back far enough to install the new pads there must be another step I did not have the Subaru service diagnostic tool.

I changed the front pads with no problems.

Anyone have any thoughts on pushing those rear Pistons back.

 

I tried to change the rear pads today, I could not. I was not able to push the piston back far enough to install the new pads there must be another step I did not have the Subaru service diagnostic tool.

I changed the front pads with no problems.

Anyone have any thoughts on pushing those rear Pistons back.

Did you try to push and turn the brake piston at the same time?....was there any kind of "locator holes" on the surface of the piston?


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I tried to twist the piston but it did not change anything, not sure about any locator holes.

 

Sometimes you need a tool similar to this one...where you have different locator pins pattern...you use it with your ratchet by pressing and twisting... but maybe you don't need it for our 2015 Outback...can someone confirm my statement ?

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Im sure this is the issue after watching more videos on youtube.

Thanks for the help!

 

So did you fix your problem? If yes...how did you manage to push back the piston?

Thanks

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Recently rotated my tires and forgot to look at the wear on the brake pads. I read that the rear pads wear faster than the front? True?

Earlier in this thread instructions from the service manual for rear pad replacement was posted. Will the fronts be the same routine?

 

Generally front pads wear 2 to 3 times faster than rear pads if they are made of the same material.

 

Has anyone successfully changed rear brake pads without the use of Subaru Select Monitor? The service manual seems to suggest that the pistons can be pushed back with a clamp without using the Subaru Select Monitor.

The direct motor driven EPB in BMWs require you to detach the motor and screw drive and retract the piston by turning the screw in the caliper clockwise. Does Subaru uses the similar system as BMW or is it electric motor driving hydraulics?

 

I successfully replaced my rear brake pads without the use of the Subaru Select Monitor. Just rent the disk brake caliper tool kit from autozone or local auto supply store. The piston is turned as its being pushed back, With this tool it probably took me longer to remove and reinstall the wheels than it did to replace the pads. I had to replace my pads due to one side getting stuck and prematurely and unevenly wearing my pad causing it to hit the low pad indicator metal and squeaking all the time.

 

I successfully replaced my rear brake pads without the use of the Subaru Select Monitor. Just rent the disk brake caliper tool kit from autozone or local auto supply store. The piston is turned as its being pushed back, With this tool it probably took me longer to remove and reinstall the wheels than it did to replace the pads.

Hi eldenv,

Did you release the electronic park brake before you replacing the rear brake pads? Were there anything extra or special that you needed to do other than releasing the electronic park brake?

As for the tool that you have rented, does it purely performs compression of the piston back into the caliper? I mean the tool can only push and not rotate the piston right? The rotation of the piston when you pushes them back is a results of the parking brake motor design into the piston?

The factory service manual is making things looks more complicated that what you have been through. Thanks

 

Good to know.


bill p. Albany area NY. 2016 silver 2.5 limited. Eyesight.

 

I know this is an old post, but you do know the brakes are covered under the 3/36 warranty from the factory?

 

My old Infiniti FX35 used to wear the rears out almost 2-1 compared to the front. It was part of the anti-dive braking, rear bias.

 

When I was researching the OB one thing I noticed in a video (and it bothered me for a bit) under hard braking (60-0 mph) not only did the nose dive but the back wheels may even leave the ground in some instances. Pretty sure there is 0 anti-dive braking on the OB based on that. I just did the brakes on the Fozzy ('15) this weekend, although the rear pads were down the fronts did show more wear.

 

Went to my Subaru dealer today to get info and their pricing on brake pads. $275 per set. This also includes rotor resurfacing, which the service guy said was absolutely essential. Really? Can my eyeball inspection tell me if this should be done?

 

Probably should be, but... Not sure of your expertise, but I used to change pads once or twice as needed w/o resurfacing the rotors, then picked up a new disc/pad set F/R for about the same price on EBay (and I lived).

 

I've 55K on my '15 Outback and thought I'd be ready for a brake job very soon. I did my oil change today with tire rotation and was surprised when checking brake pad thickness that I'm at 12mm for the backs and 10/11mm for the fronts. Based on those numbers how much have I used? Seems not much.

P.S. per service manual pads are only 9mm thick so I definitely measured incorrectly though I had the right tool for the job. Will recheck.

 

For those that are doing their own brakes for the first time and you order the complete brake kit from subaru here is the deal.

The complete brake kit comes with a small box for the rear and a large box for the front. The front includes shims, two types of shim goo and pad caliper clips. The rear box just has pad no shim.

Before you begin have lots of patients and no matter what do not drink adult beverages because this is not for the weak. Remove the ground to the battery only for the rear pads.

To do the rear pads you will need to rent or buy a brake caliper piston tool because it does need to be twisted back into place not pushed in like the front calipers. The rear is simple, loosen rear tire lugs, jack up car, remove tire, disconnect the emergency brake wiring harness by pulling back the rubber boot and pushing on the lower inside part of the plug. Its tight. (you only need to remove the lower caliper bolt and swing the caliper up to access both the pads and the piston. This method is highly recommended.) To remove the lower bolt you will need an Allen wrench, yes a freaking Allen wrench. Auto manufacturers just cannot make life simple. (Sorry patients is thin as I have just completed half of the car in 2 hrs that normally takes 30 minutes in a normal car.) The Allen bolt is accessed by a plastic cap on the end of the rubber boot. Use finger nail and remove cap. Careful they fly off pretty easy. Once cap is removed use Allen key to loosen bolt. Once loose I had to push the bolt out from the opposite side. I had little grease on the bolt which I solved during re-assembly. Pivot the cage with piston up to access the pads and the caliper piston. Remove pads. (NOTE: pad with butterfly clip on top goes on the inside) There are no caliper clips on the rear pads so no need to replace. Moly Lube at your own discretion. Us caliper tool and twist piston back into the caliper to allow for new pads. (I purchased caliper grease to lube the front and rear caliper retaining bolts. When I removed the rear Allen bolts they were dry. I put a heavy coat on the lower bolt, lowered the cage, tightened the lower bolt then removed the upper bolt so I could lube it. Apparently this is totally up to you due to the lack of lube on the bolts. One the pads and caliper is back together, start the car or use ACC mode, push the bake and engage and disengage the parking brake several times to reset the piston. I'm at 3 years so I am bleeding the brakes at this time. YMMV.

Now the front. PITA. What makes this such a pain is, A the new clips and B squealers on both the inside and outside pads. Again I highly recommend using just removing the lower caliper bolt method, it will save you issues with the pads and the new clips.
Loosen the lug bolts, lift car and remove wheel. Remove lower caliper bolt and swing cage out of the way. Compress pistions back into place before going any further. Remove old pads. (her is where the fun begins) In the bgx you have 4 pads and 8 shims plus two packets of goo, one charcoal and the other gold. The charcoal stuff is a rubberized material that goes directly on the steel side of the pad. Then you apply the black shim, then apply three pea size dollops of the gold stuff then the silver or gold smooth shim. Here is the rub, before applying the goo pre-fit the shims. Notice they are not the same size. This is due to the different placement of the squealer. Inside pad, outside pad. Once you pre-fit the shim, remove the shims one pad at a time and add goo in the order mentioned earlier. To install the pads note which is inside and which is outside, squealer goes down. (I installed new clips to ensure proper operation of new pads.) Install new pad clips. To install pads have the squealer side down and insert it at an angle so the squealer is on the disk side of the cage. Push pad down while at the same time holding the inside of the clip out of the way. PITA. Do the same for the opposite side while holding the pad you just installed or it will pop out of place. Again PITA. Once pads are in place pivot the caliper back into position, lube or do not lube bolt and tighten into place.

Yes kids this took me two hours to do half the car. Note the short cuts and lessons learned, it will cut your time by 1/3. I hope this helps.

 

For those that are doing their own brakes for the first time and you order the complete brake kit from subaru here is the deal. The complete brake kit comes with a small box for the rear and a large box for the front. The front includes shims, two types of shim goo and pad caliper clips. The rear box just has pad no shim.

Slaphappy, thanks for your review. Very helpful for the day I do mine. Curious if you bought your brake kit at your dealer or online from maybe subaruonlineparts.com. No discount pricing from my dealer so thinking of the online route. Lots of 3rd party sellers but hesitate. Their pricing is all over the place some starting at $17 for a pair which makes me nervous.

 

As a DIYer I have one thing to add.. when compressing the brake pistons open up your bleeder valve and push the old funky fluid that resides in your caliper out. You really don't want to push that fluid back up into your system..

I destroyed an ABS unit on a Land Rover pushing fluid upline.. never do it again.

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Thanks Slaphappy!

 

Subman, I purchased my kit from a local dealer online. I got 15% or so off by ordering online. Check your dealer websites and see if they have different online prices. Delivered to my door was just over $100 for the entire kit.

Hope this helps

 

Is this the type of tool I will need for rears?

https://www.amazon.com/8milelake-Brake-Caliper-professional-caliper/dp/B0122Q83T4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1501432529&sr=8-3&keywords=brake+caliper+wind+back+tool

 

Yes, that is the tool. There are enough fittings in that kit to do almost any common brakes you may come across

I have a set just like it. Money well spent.

Jason