there's an entire thread about these pulleys. the pulleys are really easy to remove, like super easy, nothing special to it. remove and inspect to determine what you need to replace.

if the pulleys aren't ruined you can replace the bearings in them for like $5 each. they tap out and in very easily.

if they're damaged or the tensioner mechanism isn't worried then you'll have to replace the entire pulley and/or the entire tensioner itself. inspection will tell you.

someone recently posted a replacement pulley part number on a thread here that's available at any autoparts store and it's like 10 bucks or somethign, great deal. pulley with new bearing in it. get two of those and you're done.

but - if you're tensioner is failed, you'll have to buy that and it comes with a new pulley.

once the air intake is removed you don't need to remove anything to get at them. i've done a few now and they're really easy.

 

there's an entire thread about these pulleys. the pulleys are really easy to remove, like super easy, nothing special to it. remove and inspect to determine what you need to replace.

someone recently posted a replacement pulley part number on a thread here that's available at any autoparts store and it's like 10 bucks or somethign, great deal. pulley with new bearing in it. get two of those and you're done.

I looked around and searched the forums and couldn't find any of these threads of which you speak At least not relating to H6 pulleys. There are a couple threads for the 2.5, but I don't know if the parts are the same or if mine requires beefier components.

Do you happen to have links to them or at least the names so I can sort through the forums and find them more effectively? I swear I dredged through like 30 pages and didn't find 'em.

 

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...k.org/forums/110-gen-2-2000-2004/16823-sticky-request-h6-tensioner-bearing.html

H6 (at least 2001-2003) is bearing# " 6203-2rsj " for each.

Watch the nut that falls off the back of the idler...

 

Watch the nut that falls off the back of the idler...

Heh. That nut fell out while I was taking stuff apart to replace the head gaskets, but I couldn't for the life of me figure out where it came from until I went to put the tensioner back in.

 

So after some digging around today, I found the infamous nut had indeed fallen off and in my efforts to extricate it, it disappeared down into a little crevice atop the engine block. I hope it didn't fall into anything that's going to munch it and then break.

I'll call Napa tomorrow and see if they have the bearings in stock, as well as the pulleys if I can't devise a suitable solution. I know they can get the tensioner assembly (here) but I figure if I can fix it via the bearings I don't need a new tensioner assembly.

Speaking of which, how the devil do you adjust that thing? It looks like a pretty solid plate and I'm not sure how to get the belt back on.

 

Combo of a metal bar and a wrench on the bolt head to compress the spring enough...

 

Awesome, thanks! I think I'm just about ready to go.

One thing, though - what's the size on the nut and bolt that hold the pulleys on? I'm gonna have to buy another one since the bolt is probably laying somewhere between here and work and the nut has vanished into a little cavern that I'm reasonably certain doesn't contain moving parts. *crosses fingers*

Also, the bolt that holds the idler pulley on is fantastically jammed. I suspect any more brute force than I'm using is going to result in bending something and/or implanting most of the engine under the skin of my knuckles.

 

you're not going to break anything, just use gloves or pad your hand in some way or use a breaker bar or use a long pipe over the ratchet handle or use the interlocked double wrench technique....there's about 10 ways to remove that nut.

the H6 tensioner bearing is the first thread, stickied to the the top in the 2000-2004 generation forum.

there's also a replacement DAYCO 89007 pulley available at auto parts stores. you could probably search that part number here to get results.

lots of options - this is job is really easy, i'd rather do this job than change oil.

 

Just a thanks to everyone in this thread. Had the idler pulley go on my 2005 outback (only 53k miles!) and used this thread for reference. Amazon has the part (as well as the tension pulley) for less than what I found quoted at local autoparts stores.

I don't think this pulley should be failing at 53K on a car that is driven casually (not a commuter vehicle) but hey, I didn't think the 02 sensor should fail at 15k either

I'm glad about one thing, this forum is a wealth of info and makes doing it yourself not only possible but preferable to spending time and $$$ at a dealership.

So thanks.

 

I have found myself in a similar situation regarding the pulleys. Was outside this morning as my wife backed out of the garage and heard a squeal/whine/whatever from the front of the car. Popped the hood and it sure sounded like one of these was going.

Fortunately I had already read on here about the problem and had ordered two replacement pulleys (Dayco 89007) and a new belt which had arrived over the weekend. I left work early prepared to come home and swap the new ones in, but much to my surprise when I placed the new Dayco pulley up against the old tensioner pulley, I'm guessing it was about 1/4" smaller in diameter (OD). It also didn't have the shoulder in the back like the OEM one had.

So here's the $60,000 question: Does it matter if the OD is smaller? Will the tensioner just take up the slack?

When I look at the Dayco website for the 89007 it does not list the H6 3.0 as a replacement part, the OD is listed as 76mm. For the 89087 pulley, the H6 3.0 is listed as a replacement part and the OD is 80mm. The 89087 is also 25mm wide vs. 31mm for the 89007. BTW, per the pictures on the Dayco website, both are smooth OD, not ribbed, contrary to what I read in another post?

So what's the right part to use?

 

they should be smooth - just like the ones you're replacing.

I changed out my bearings, but found exactly whay you did, the inexpensive pulley mentioned in that thread IS a few millimeters smaller in dia. And, IIRC, the same poster used a LARGER than stock pulley for the idler - i guess to 'even out' the effect on tensioner position. It 'seems' that the temsioner could take up several millimeters in 'slack' but, I dunno what the limit would be.

One other caveat, even though my pulleys felt rough, they did NOT solve the noise my wife has been hearing. After further reading and investigation, I think the noise is likely caused by air being aspirated into the PS pump at the intake hose fitting and I plane to take it off and smear it with some heavy grease and re-install.

You might try to test you PS pump to see if that might be the source of the noise. However, I do not feel bad about replacing my pulley bearings - dunno how much longer they would have lasted, but they were definitely going bad.

Just be prepared for the possibility something else is causing the noise.

 

what should be ordered

2002 outback L.L. Bean Edition H6 3.0

what do i ask the mechanic to order before taking it in?

the belt doesn't seem cracked but a bit burned on the back (maybe i'm wrong about this). it is also curled (heat?):

[/IMG]

two pulleys have rubber burned onto them:

[/IMG]

 

photos attached

i guess links to images didn't work so,,,

 

if those pulleys (or their bearings) have never been changed, they should be.

 

thank you for the reply "1 Lucky Texan."

we plan to ask the mechanic to replace the pulleys, bearings and bearing housings skipping the assembly and any unnecessary cost if possible.

i gave up hoping i could do this myself last night.

I'm hoping the new pulleys will better run the water pump and AC.

 

Just tell him to replace the tensioner, the idler and the belt. Three items & labor.

The tensioner & idler each contain a new bearing, the belt is self explanatory. This will definitely allow your AC compressor to run to its full potential.

The water pump is not driven by this belt and won't be affected in any way by this repair.

 

Yuuup. And if you don't care about non-OEM parts, tell him to order the Dayco pulleys mentioned in the ez30 pulley solution sticky... Good way to save $40 right off the bat since the Daycos are $10 each and the OEM ones like $35 depending on where you get them.

It's a pretty easy DIY job too, I imagine labor will come out padded to be honest. I did it in 45 minutes, in heavy snow with my glasses fogging up so I don't labor will be too much on this one.

 

After doing some serious digging i have failed to come up with a Step by step DIY for the belt and whatnot, Anybody got a link to that?

Also, im pretty sure my belt popped off due to a malfunctioning Belt Idler, IE it was loose and could wobble, then upon tightening it does not turn. Call me crazy but im just gonna toss out a guess that its supposed to turn. Im guessing its bearings have failed causing it to loosen the bolt holding it in place which then caused the belt to come off its path.

I figure i will DIY and replace everything that needs to be replaced when you do the belt, might as well after all, the belts off so a slight bit of the work is already done for me.

Anyhow, yea the DIY for replacement link would be spiffy if anybody has it handy and also confirmation on the belt idler... i think i saw some part numbers above on what should be replaced

So the Idler and the tensioner are the same part number? Looking on the dayco website for my particular year/model gives me this Dayco 89148


Should i go with this or the previously mentioned 89007

 

Some links here:

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...-2005-2009/98242-idler-pulley-tensioner-issue-later-model-gen-3-h6-3-0-a-5.html

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums....org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/147729-08-tensioner-pulley-bearings-h6.html

 

We have a 2003 subaru outback sedan... the tensioner needs to be replaced but we either cannot find or reach the lower bolt to get the old one off...any ideas?

 

You have an H6 3.0 engine right?

you may need to remove the upper radiator hose - dunno, I didn't and I haven't read of anyone needing to yet.

the 2 pulleys are 'B' and 'E' in this diagram;

 

It's definitely doable with the rad hose connected.

I don't remember having difficulty getting a 1/2" drive ratchet on it to break it loose, then use your fingers to thread it out. Just be aware that there is a nut inserted into the back of the tensioner. As you loosen the tensioner pulley bolt that nut will want to fall out the back. Try to pull the bolt out as you loosen it. There is just enough room to get a hand in there to hold that nut from falling out and turn the bolt out. DON"T DROP THE NUT. It will be a pain to find and get back in if you don't realize it's missing.

 

^^^ good advice - there's also a washer at the front, it must go back on in the same direction.

take a look thru the other threads linked.

 

I dropped the nut a few years ago. Took awhile to realize it was missing, got lucky and dredged it off the block with a skinny telescoping magnet.

Piece of tape across the back of the thing can be a lifesaver.

 

My car's serpentine belt broke at 60,000 miles or so. It was replaced by the dealer. The car's now at 134,000 miles. Should I re-replace it as preventative maintenance?

 

Yes

 

and probably the 2 pulley bearings too.

 

About a year or so ago I paid $80 for a new tensioner assy including pulley and the idler pulley from subarupartsforyou, oem, including shipping. Beware the nylon pulleys...the price is tempting but most reports of them are not good. Tensioner is preset, nothing to worry about there. Also a good time to replace the o ring in the PS pump, since it's around a buck and a half, and get a half dozen crush washers if you don't use a Fumoto. Shipping ends up being free on the little parts, since they just put them into the same box as everything else.

 

great advice

might even consider radiator and heater hoses

 

I've been putting together the order. I have a few seeping radiator hoses and a rusted lower radiator support bracket. I'm thinking at 150,000 miles when the car is due for new coolant I'll pull the radiator, replace the support brackets, and replace the hoses, but that's still at least 1.5 years from now at the rate I put miles on it.

Back on topic: the belt, part number 23769AA003, is $87 on Subaru Parts warehouse. Is that a reasonable price for the OEM one? Can I get away with a $15 aftermarket one?

Just to clarify, if it hasn't failed, do I just replace the belt and bearings? Should I check the pulleys for damage and go from there?

 

That is the part number for the Tensioner, not the belt.

What I bought a few months ago was Edit prices from subaru parts warehouse, of CT, discount code applied:
the VBelt, 80922100 $33.32 (listed below as 809221080, as the diagram is for a Gen3 car)
the Idler Pulley 23770AA20 $38.52
and the Pulley Bolt. 23771AA00 $1.61

Gen3 2005-2009 H6 EZ30R diagram:

 

No, that's expensive. Get an aftermarket Gates.

 

+1

Gates is good stuff.