[rickst29]

I wonder, since a lot of "failed bearing" victims see failed rubber seals on the failed idler and tensioner pulleys: Would replacement with 6203-ZZ (metal shielded bearings) be a good idea?

 

[rickst29]

Thanks for the advice.
Here's another question: what is the torque spec for the bolt that holds the pulley in?

This unnamed bolt does the same job as bolt "T4" (part 23771AA000) does on the idler pulley (in combination with its washer/cover).

The tightening Torque for "T4" is 25 ft-lbs. When I remount my tensioner pulley, I'll SWAG the same value on this bolt.

 

[03LLBean]

Metal shielded bearings aren't as well protected from dirt as rubber sealed.
It would be interesting to hear if anyone has tried them, but I would expect them to not last as long.

 

[rickst29]

Thanks for the hint! I bought a small pack of "6203RS" washers, and I'm delighted with outcome:

I did the job today, at 80K miles on my Tribeca. I replaced the entire Tensioner assembly (Delco, 100% identical to OEM): It was a bit of a hassle to install the new one (bolts "T2" were awkward to re-install.) The Ider pulley was a piece of cake, done in seconds. New V-Belt, of course. My Ider pulley replacement was "compatible", but not identical to OEM.

After finishing with the car, I of course had a "used" Tensioner Assembly (including Pulley) and a "used" idler Pulley on my hands. The original Tensioner seems to be in very good condition on the spring, mountings, and pulley - but the bearing inside the Pulley was worn and noisy, and it was spinning a bit "loose". The Idler Pulley was also worn, in the same way (a bit less).

Letting this go for 80K miles seems to have been kinda risky, with too much wear and tear on those bearings. From now on, I'm going to do this "Pulley replacement, with V-belt" job every 60K.

I used an 18mm socket and sledge hammer to press out the old ones, clean a bit of of dirt and gunk, then gently press in new ones - full depth, completely tight. At a "restoration cost" of $3 each, the original pulleys are now spinning perfectly smooth, quiet, and perpendicular to the shaft. I'll swap these now-smooth (and ready to use) "original" Pulleys back in when the replacements bearings reach age 60K miles (140K odometer).

At that time, the "replacement pulleys" (which are now on the car in new condition) will become available for the same job: "restoration" via bearing replacement, making them ready to install when the odometer reaches 200K. Cost: $6.

I plan to leave the new Delco Tensioner "assembly" in place through the first of those Pulley swaps, because the original looks so good (on the Spring "base" and attached "Pulley Mounting Assembly"). And because the "T2" bolts are awkward to reach for removing and mounting the Assembly "base". (At 200K, though, I might treat it to another brand-new unit.)

 

[FMGreen]

Is there any harm in driving without the V-belt for a day or so while I wait for a new belt tensioner to arrive? As far as I can tell, it simply spins the alternator, a/c compressor, and the power steering pump.

I realize I won't have power steering or A/C and I'll probably have to jump start the car at each destination, but aside from that I don't see how this could be a problem.

(Side note: it's always great to return to the forum I helped build and see it thriving!)

 

[CNY_Dave]

I think it would be OK. I'd do it...

It may run weird if the battery gets low.

 

[FMGreen]

As I think about it more... I guess the real question is... is my battery healthy enough to keep 6 plugs sparking long enough to drive 20 minutes at a time? Probably not.

Thoughts/concerns would still be appreciated, though.

My replacement tensioner was just ordered from Amazon and should arrive on Friday, so I really only have about four 20 minute trips in my future.

 

[CNY_Dave]

20 minutes? No sweat if the batt is charged!
Just go easy on the seat heaters!

 

[FMGreen]

I'm gonna give it a go in the morning. I'll just keep her off the highway.
My arms could use a good workout anyway!

 

[03LLBean]

When the belt broke on my Mom years ago the car stalled every time she stopped and struggled more to start each time.

 

[FMGreen]

I chickened out and borrowed a car for a few days.

Just installed the new belt tensioner (AC Delco, 100% perfect match, only $50 from Amazon with 1-day shipping) in about 20 minutes. Easy peasy. Slipping the v-belt back over the power steering pump is by far the most difficult part of the process. Otherwise, piece of cake.

 

[Hawthorne]

I have a question regarding replacing the bearing in the tensioner pulley. I purchased two sets of bearings (the good ones) but I never replaced the bearings because I never ordered the Bearining Loctite 620/680.
Has anybody had any luck just using the Red loctite from the the hardware store? The thread lock kind.
I need to get my car on the road before the next snowstorm, and I won't have time to wait for the loctite to arrive. It would almost cost the same to buy a new pulley rather than buy the loctite bearing 620+ the bearings.

I just have to remember where I put those bearings........

 

[1 Lucky Texan]

I just used the thread lock I had - so far no issues.

 

[nworbetan]

The weather and my schedule finally coincided so I had time to check out the condition of my belt and bearings today. Nothing is screaming out that it needs to be replaced right now. But since I don't know exactly how old these parts are, what should I keep an eye out for in the future to make sure I take care of them before they go bad?

At first I was a little concerned about the grooves on the "smooth" side of the belt, but when I took it off, those have obviously been on the belt even longer than the part number and other info. I've heard of belt wear gauges, but never used one. Is there any certain type I need, or are those pretty much a one size fits all tool?

The idler pulley has been replaced once already; a cross section of current pulley would be an "I" shape instead of "C" shaped like the tensioner pulley. Neither one of the bearings were making any noise that could be heard over the traffic on the street 50ft away, and they felt like they rolled pretty smoothly, and there was only just the tiniest bit of play in them. So far so good. The outer ring of the bearing on the idler pulley (the part that wasn't hidden behind a washer) had a lot of tiny specs of rust.

 

[*thomas*]

Sorry to bump an old thread, but I'm going to change the belt and pulleys over the weekend. There is no noise coming from them, but they have done approx 100K miles and Subarua Europe advices to change the belt. So while I'm in there, I could just change the pulleys as well.

Some questions about this:

- I'm I correct assuming that turning the bolt from the tensioner pulley clock wise will take the tension of the belt?
- Do I need to undo any other parts in order to remove the complete tensioner?
- Can I take the tension of the new tensioner by turning it clockwise or is there another procedure to follow?

Thanks

 

[FMGreen]

-Clockwise removes tension.
-Removing the belt will allow you to remove the tensioner. Bolts are a bit tricky to get to, but not impossible.
-New tensioner is identical. 1) Remove belt. 2) Remove old tensioner. 3) Install new tensioner. 4) Install belt.

 

[*thomas*]

Thanks! I feel like I'll get some scratches and bruises on my hands when it will be done

 

[FMGreen]

I certainly found it helpful to have someone else to remove tension while I reinstalled the belt. The tensioner spring is really strong and the belt is a very tight fit.

 

[KentuckyOutback]

Next time you hear cheepcheepcheep, it's time to pop the hood and find out where the failing bearing is BEFORE it comes loose. You got lucky the belt didn't catch anything and really mess something up...

 

[Jeffrey Feather]

I love you all, idler pulley fell off on my way to work, '01 H6 with 73k