I have never heard of this going bad but, I suspect there should at least be an air bleed/purge procedure.

 

they don't go bad,.
Probably ain incorrect diagnosis to get your money.
Likey a axle is wrong, or the sensor at the hub went mia/bad

 

It is this thing:

My buddy who sold me the car said the module was burnt out as well...

 

that's the ABS hydraulic pump/actuator. it might be called the "module" sometimes....but so might the actual ABS computer/controller, so just make sure.

as said, these don't really fail so you should probably do some diagnosis.

There's nothing special though if you need to swap them out - just swap away and bleed and drive. You can ignore the "ABS bleed sequence" - i've never seen it be necessary, they always bleed just fine though a completely open system can take forever to bleed anyway even if it's non-ABS.

 

some very early models with the first optional ABS module would have a relay or something that would buzz. I don't recall the fix but I don't think it was full replacement.

I'd do/get more diagnosis.

 

This seems like a great place to ask this:

I just pulled our '95 legacy into the garage, after sitting out front for the day. Gave it 5 minutes to warm up and after shutting it off, the hydraulic actuator continued to buzz.
Turned the ignition on, then off-continued to buzz. Started it back up and ABS light was on. It kept buzzing until I disconnected the negative battery terminal. Reconnected battery terminal and it remained silent. No more ABS light either.
I guess my questions are: Why would this buzz? Would it be one of the two relays my manual is mentioning. It says the actuator is non-serviceable, except these relays. Or should I just disconnect the battery when it wants to 'act-up'-Haha, but I'd really like to get it straightened out. Look forward to hearing something good but can handle either way. Thank you!


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it was an occasional failure I have read of in older soobs with optional ABS. Someone here will likely recall, or ask/search over at ultimatesubaru.org

 

The SVX community is often plagued by this as well; just swap the relay.

The ABS system does a "self-test" on ignition on and a rapid "system check" at 7MPH. If the solenoids or speed sensors aren't cooperating, it will throw a code/light.

 

Good morning. Ok, thanks. I actually pushed it out in the morning just in front of the door. It usually purrs like a kitten, only this time upon startup it had a tick-tick-tick to the engine for 5-10 seconds (maybe a different topic). Then back to normal as I was actually marveling at how smooth and quiet it is. Then straight forward into the garage. The dealership has been very good to this car when we've needed them, it's just the price at times. They are skilled in this so it's worth it to us sometimes.
I will look into replacing a one or both relay/s, tonight. Again, thank you.

Hello, 1 lucky Texan. I'll try a different search method. I really appreciate knowing this site and the few that have helped me and will consider the other site. Thank you.


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Thanks for the replies. That was perfect!!
Did a google search-yep, took me right to ultimatesubaru site, yielding lots of good info.
Subaru wants an arm and a leg (130 & 80)for the relays but pull-n-save asked $6 for both. It decided to do its buzzing again this morning and after I replaced them, it hasn't happened. Both of you nailed it!! Thank you so much for answering this question. Cheers.


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