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Lack of power when using AC

6.1K views 20 replies 11 participants last post by  Tennesseestorm  
#1 ·
So after getting my OB all fixed up and whatnot, I decided I would start to drive it the way I wanted to. I never drove it with the AC on before, but I know it works fine. The AC is cold when I want it cold (much better than the fan...) but I've noticed that it taxes my poor engine dearly.

I find that my OB becomes very sluggish when it comes to acceleration when using the AC, so I've resulted to turning the AC off when getting on a highway ramp to merge. Once I get up to speed and everything I eventually turn it back on, but still.

Is this normal? I've never actually owned a car with a working AC so I'm not really sure what to think here. Power seems to work well with everything else. However, I do notice sometimes at night that when I brake with the lights on (even when the lights are on automatically) that the front head lights dim a little for a second or two, then go back to regular brightness.

The battery was replaced in January of last year and the only problem I've had in regards to battery was the car stalled when I was in the line at a drive-thru (I had put the car in drive and put the e-brake on cause I was lazy. Automatic transmission.) but since that, I haven't done that and it hasn't been an issue since. I have since also brought it to a shop and had the HG done, tbelt, water pump, and a tune up.

So back to my point -- is the AC taxing normal? I expect it to be, but just checking...
 
#2 ·
Yes. We have tiny little 2.5 liter 4 cylinder engines that are hauling around 3,415 lbs. not including you and a tank of gas. But, the 2nd generation like your 2002 has a feature that temporarily automatically shuts the A/C compressor off, like you do manually now, when the car needs more power. So if you floor it to get onto a highway ramp the car will downshift into 3rd gear and the A/C will go off by itself long enough for you not to be run over by that truck barreling down on you. :)

The first time I experienced this I thought my A/C was malfunctioning because it would get warm for a bit and then really cold when I got back up to speed. Then I read the manual and saw that was supposed to happen. Enjoy the A/C until winter when you have to start worrying about your heat.

BTW, it is normal for the headlights to dim for a second when you apply the brakes. Something to do with the alternator kicking on due to the increased load of the power brakes. If that ain't exactly what happens, then someone here will correct me.
 
#3 ·
Completely normal.

For decades, cars have been built with an A/C cutout switch so the system temporarily shuts down if you floor the gas pedal. Some are more sensitive than others, but none of them are as good at anticipating road conditions as you are.

This should also give you an idea of what A/C is doing to your gas mileage.
 
#5 ·
DavidPeab: I have "instant" cooling coming from my a/c vents on my 05 OB the minute I put it on - I flush the system once a year and replenish the coolant - it sure helps in this 90 F 99% humid climate here in NW FL....
The trick is also to run a/c at least once a week, even if it's not needed; it lubricates all seals and valves.
There is a slight decrease in power, once the compressor kicks in, but after a while one gets used to it.
 
#7 ·
I got about 8yrs out of my 2001 before it needed a recharge. Also I've been told by a number of AC folks including house and industrial AC types that running the system occasionally helps keep things up.

Also I think that no running the AC over a long enough period impacts the gas in the AC system also causing it be become inefficient.
 
#8 ·
I found that the only sure thing, how to determine if there is enough coolant in the system is to drain it all out and re-fill - all other gauges and methods are not that accurate.... there is a metal sticker on/by the frame near radiator which shows exactly how much coolant (HFC-134a) should be in. Mine is showing 21 - 25 oz ... I found over the years that if you put/re-fill it with max 25 oz you will get instant cooling, once you start the engine. With just 21 oz it may show on regular cheap gauges that the system is fully charged but for some climates that may not be cool enough.
Once it's drained (professional auto repair shops have this huge monster machine) you can see, how much coolant was in the system and compare it with what is shown on that metal sticker.
In conclusion, I suggest anyone who has not enough cool air out coming of a/c to have it checked this way and fill HFC-134a to the max capacity, shown on that sticker.
That procedure takes little over 30 minutes and costs appx $ 70.00 in my neck of the woods!
 
#13 ·
My Baja turbo has manual xmission. When the AC compressor is engaged, it is very easy to stall the engine if I do not consencesly think about it. This is mainly because I am SOOO accustomed to driving my truck that even a slight difference in engine-power makes my normal driving-habits incorrect.

Also, when the AC compressor is engaged, I can feel the annoying blip-blip as engine-power goes down and up as the compressor kicks in/out.

When I drove VWs, this was never a problem because VW uses VARIABLE AC compressor which 'softly' changes its loading on the engine.
 
#14 ·
Yeah, my 2000 outback 5 speed also is a noticeable difference with AC on vs off during acceleration and I feel the same annoying blip-blip and you, Brucep. When I first started driving it I thought it was an intermittent misfire at highway speeds when the compressor turned on.

On a side note to the people that like to manually turn off AC at times and use it at least once a week, when you have your heater set to defrost the AC is running whether you have the AC turned on or not because defrosting a window is incredibly faster with AC than with out. Mine doesn't come on for the defrost + floor setting but does for full defrost. Other models may vary.
 
#16 ·
A times the AC is too cold at lowest fan setting. You can take the bite out by adding heat but why waste power? During those marginal periods I use the defrost setting as AC. The comp cycles on enough to cool and dehumidify the air and air flows gently out of vents by doors. Sometimes you get some fogging on lower windshield but not at hwy speeds. I've found that once the interior thermal mass has been pulled down the defrost setting will keep me comfortable most of the time. Nighttime driving in summer I rarely need full AC, defrost only.
 
#17 ·
^^^ Defrosting/defogging mode here in FL in high humidity is almost impossible to use since the windshield keeps fogging/freezing outside (even at highway speed) and one has to use windshield wipers all the time. For that reason, I have completely stopped using defogging/defrosting mode alone. I always have to add heating to prevent that.