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Looking for 2006-2012 2.5 (NA or turbo) oil pressure data

16K views 14 replies 9 participants last post by  rotorcraft230  
#1 ·
Are you running a real-time engine oil pressure gauge? If so, where is it connected, and, what psi readings do you have. for example, when cold and fully warmed-up, and at idle rpm, when driving at 1500 rpm, and 2500 rpm?

I'm off on a tangent again, trying to confirm the usual working pressure for the VVL (variable intake valve lift) system. (The tangent is related to failing/leaking switches (http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...blems-maintenance/49468-variable-valve-lift-oil-pressure-switch-resistance.html) and codes P0026 and P0028.)

I understand that the VVL is disabled until the oil reaches a moderate temperature. Also, based on my logging of related data, I'm reasonably confident the VVL doesn't switch to "hi" lift until engine is around 1600 rpm with the car driving and some load on the engine (i.e., not in neutral).

The VVL system has an oil pressure sensor switch on each head that indicates when the system is in high mode by monitoring the oil pressure to the camshaft from the VVL duty solenoid valve. My understanding of the VVL mechanism itself suggests that the oil pressure would have to be fairly high to engage the intake valve cam follower locking pins. Take this a bit further and I believe that the oil pressure switches are calibrated to change state (off/on) at a similarly high pressure. (Contrast that to the engine oil pressure switch which works at 2-4 psi!)

The engine oil pump bypass is around 85 psi. But what's the system normal operating pressure under conditions where the VVL would switch to high mode?
 
#2 ·
I'm not familiar with the pressures nuances of the VVL/AVCS systems but it is something I'd like to learn more about.

I have considered installing an analog guage on my EJ255 though. Most people tend to use the oil valley sourced hole on the front top of the block under the alternator. That's where the oil pressure switch feeds from. If it has an oil cooler I believe there may be an extra bung or two for the taking. Are we still doing phrasing? @traildogck?
 
#3 ·
the WRX/STI guys add a lot f OP gauges I think - maybe they have a 'typical' place to tap into it?

there are also 'sandwich' or maybe it's 'pancake' adapters that sandwich under the oil filter I think - that might be a convenient way to do temporary measurements?

I 'dream' about a 2-gauge A pillar pod with boost and something else - maybe oil pressure. Just never gets to the top of my to-do list.

 
#4 ·
the WRX/STI guys add a lot f OP gauges I think - maybe they have a 'typical' place to tap into it?

there are also 'sandwich' or maybe it's 'pancake' adapters that sandwich under the oil filter I think - that might be a convenient way to do temporary measurements?

I 'dream' about a 2-gauge A pillar pod with boost and something else - maybe oil pressure. Just never gets to the top of my to-do list.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dho4u1eN_Iw
I got one...Its between my filter...old location, new location. But my car isn't currently running. I think I have some logged data. But I can't dig into that until later...wrenching as usual.
 
#5 ·
I wasn't clear. I'm not specifically looking for locations to hook up a gauge; that's just a point of interest/reference in case the pressure reading responses are significantly different. (If I were really into this big time I would probably install a logging gauge at each VVL pressure switch and analyze the recorded data.)

But I do appreciate the responses, and interest!
 
#7 ·
Found the FSM specs for oil pump discharge with oil at 80 C (Engine/Lubrication/General Description):

@ 600 rpm, 14 psi
@ 5000 rpm, 43 psi

(This applies to 2006-9, 2.5, NA and turbo.)

Over on legacygt.com there's a number of threads reporting oil pressure at around 20 psi hot idle, and 60+ psi at >2500 rpm, often in the 80-90 psi range when cruising. Some noted that the pressure moves up rapidly off idle. Cold start reports have anywhere between 60 and 100 psi (the latter seems too high because the 85 psi bypass should provide the limit, so it could be a gauge issue). Oil grade (e.g., 5W30) in addition to oil temperature, is often mentioned as affecting gauge readings.

It's a start.

Sort of suggests the VVL oil pressure switches are probably set at no less than 25-30 psi, perhaps higher.
 
#15 ·
Found the FSM specs for oil pump discharge with oil at 80 C (Engine/Lubrication/General Description):

@ 600 rpm, 14 psi
@ 5000 rpm, 43 psi

(This applies to 2006-9, 2.5, NA and turbo.)

Over on legacygt.com there's a number of threads reporting oil pressure at around 20 psi hot idle, and 60+ psi at >2500 rpm, often in the 80-90 psi range when cruising. Some noted that the pressure moves up rapidly off idle. Cold start reports have anywhere between 60 and 100 psi (the latter seems too high because the 85 psi bypass should provide the limit, so it could be a gauge issue). Oil grade (e.g., 5W30) in addition to oil temperature, is often mentioned as affecting gauge readings.

It's a start.

I have a 2014 WRX with an oil pressure Gage and this is exactly what I experience.

Sort of suggests the VVL oil pressure switches are probably set at no less than 25-30 psi, perhaps higher.
I have a 2014 WRX with an oil pressure Gage and this is exactly what I experience.
 
#8 ·
I had an oil pressure test done on my car in April 2012, at 117k miles. 5W-30 synthetic.

It was a simple mechanical gauge installed temporarily in place of the emergency pressure warning switch.

Measurements:

94psi cold start idle
35psi warm idle
83psi warm and under load

and came with the comment 'results typical good'

Hope that helps.
 
#11 ·
i am not sure if my question related to this topic but can you please help, i have 2010 Legacy 2.5 and smoke coming out of the engine because of oil leaking either from the oil switch or the selonide which are next to each other, when i unplug them both and start driving the leakeage stops and i have also got a code before P0028.
i should say i have chnaged the oil switch only but i still have the same problem. so should i change the selonide?
thanks
 
#12 ·
(Somewhat off topic, but related.)

First find out where the oil is coming from.

Clean/wash down the area. Then start the engine, and/or drive a short distance. Then check the area for signs of oil and where it's coming from. If there's none, then check it frequently -- after every short trip, and during longer ones. At some point the oil will start to show.

It could be the solenoid, but that's less common than the switch.

P0028 is for the left side VVL system, which is mounted at the front of the left side head.

Not leaking . . .

Image


Leaking from switch . . .

Image


The aluminum casting where the switch is mounted in the head can crack allowing oil out from there while the upper part of the switch remains dry.