cam/crank timing MUST be checked - have the car flatbed towed. Probably best to go to a Subaru experienced shop, not 'necessarily' the dealer. If you have a warranty, take it back to where you got it.

did you check coolant level in th radiator?

automatic or manual trans? did you check auto trans fluid?

 

Water Pump failed, that is a guess. Power was down because the bearing was seizing and adding load. Now it's grinding the bearing up. No codes? The timing belt survived without failing so the car doesn't think anything is wrong. Until she gets hot again.

These are all just guesses. I would follow 1LT's advice unless you want t start with the accessory belt and crack into the timing cover.

 

Automatic. Radiator was full of coolant, trans fluid is fine. Warranty went out 3 months ago so I'm screwed on that.

I was thinking water pump or thermostat as far the temp increase went. I inspected all the belts and they didn't seem to tight or too loose. Guess I will check timing and see what happens. Check engine light has not come on. I'm just as shocked.

 

Well a T-stat would have nothing to do with the mechanical noises.

The water pump certainly would make some noise depending on type of failure. Bent blades bashing on housing will make some racket. The temperature would spike right away since the WP is no longer functioning, it's also restricting any flow, not that it matters much with no coolant pumping.

Not having any codes I think almost supports the theory. If the TB survived and didn't jump more than a tooth, then there is no code to pop. I would think if the belt jumped or something more horrific, you would have some codes.

If the WP shaft seized, then sheared, simple visual inspection won't show much. You are going to have to get the TB off and rotate by hand. Before doing all of that, hand crank the motor and make sure that part feels normal. Any minding or grinding during a hand crank would be bad news.

 

I didn't think the T-stat had anything to do with the noise, I just thought it was a possibility for the increase in temp.

Sounds like I need to check timing and water pump. Luckily I have replaced water pump and timing belt before.

 

bummer

noise definitely from engine area?

do you have a list of parts on the TB service? Just wondering if all the idlers also got replaced.

the free-reving engine part of the story is kinda odd for a TB or water pump failure I think......and trans fluid must be checked while idling, but if the engine is sef-destructing.....

with engine off, trans fluid fluid should show - I dunno exactly - maybe 1.5 inches or more ABOVE full.

if trans fluid was low, an incline might starve the pump/TC and allow engine to rev freely......???

 

bummer

noise definitely from engine area?

do you have a list of parts on the TB service? Just wondering if all the idlers also got replaced.

the free-reving engine part of the story is kinda odd for a TB or water pump failure I think......and trans fluid must be checked while idling, but if the engine is sef-destructing.....

with engine off, trans fluid fluid should show - I dunno exactly - maybe 1.5 inches or more ABOVE full.

From what I can tell noise is coming from the engine. According to the dealership, all idlers got replaced when they did TB and WP.

I'm a little hesitant to let the engine idle. I have bent the valves before and I really don't want to do that again. I will check trans fluid and see if it is above the full line.

 

even with no CEL, you could scan for pending codes.

 

Tried. came up with nothing

 

I'd pull the timing covers and check timing. After verifying that, if its correct, hand turn the engine and see where the friction is. Was this a Subaru dealer? If not, they may have used crap parts. The loss of propulsion is weird, to me. I haven't run into anything that shows the TCM disengaging due to engine temp. How loud was the clicking? And could you tell where the clicking was coming from? Have you tried to engage the transmission since the initial stop?

 

It was a Subaru dealership. The clicking is loud enough that I could hear it going 70 doing the highway with the radio on. I can't tell where it is coming from, if I had to guess I would say front right side of the vehicle which would match with the WP. I did try to start the vehicle after the initial stop but with the loud grinding noise I turned the vehicle off pretty quickly.

 

you mentioned a screech sound once, was that the beginning of the problem?

I'd say some idler or the waterpump seized-up.


did you lose power steering?

another very unlikely issue might be a separated crank pulley - but it doesn't really fit with any symptom other than maybe the sound of screeching....


odd

 

The start of the issue was the clicking noise, then quickly after that was the loss of acceleration, then engine overheating. The screech is when I try to start the vehicle.

Never lost power steering.

I'm getting ready to go out now and check everything. When I attempt to start it I will take a video and post that if the noise is still present. I'll let you guys know what happens/ what I find.

 

Did you check the transmission fluid level and the condition of the fluid? Revving of the engine with no power transferred to the wheels sounds bad. I had 4 transmissions go out from under me over the decades and that was the typical symptom (2 Honda Odyssey's, a Mitsubishi and a Ford), it just felt like it was in neutral.

 

I checked the fluid and it is full and red. It felt like I was in neutral, except for the weird clicking sound that was present.

 

I checked the timing and it lines up perfectly. I even counted the teeth just to make sure. When I rotate it by hand, it spins easily for about 45 degrees then gets stiff, then freely again, and stiff again all the way around. I inspected the idlers and all of them rotated just fine and actually look brand new.

I removed the water pump and inspected it, didn't notice anything off about it. When I spun it, it moved freely and there was no noise associated with.

I did notice that my serpentine belts were cracked so I replaced those. Not that I think it has anything to do with my issue.

 

Well, that's all reassuring. Sorry for the goose chase, but the motor sounds like it's fine from these tests.

Maybe you have a broken motor mount.

 

Probably a long shot but what popped into my head at first was a broken flexplate or the bolts fell out of it. I don't see how that would cause an overheating issue though so that probably isn't it.

 

if there's a major flexplate problem, maybe coasting without the hydraulic pump running properly in the trans sent superheated trans fluid into the coil in the radiator and cause the over heat?

that would be some weird perfect storm of sequences.

 

accessory belts:

such things make noise,...you said you replaced them,

but you need a experienced mechanic looking to adjust them when the car is making the noise.

so like left overnight to cool, and they do it first thing in the morning.

such would give you power steering noise, and alternator problems like enough to conk the car out.

and they may find a component in the belts / idlers/ pulleys that although new is not good. (or something that was missed)

____

alternatively: something like a alternator bearing failing can do such things. and start and stop.
the bearing inside can be tested by safely cupping your hands over top of the alternator holes when the car is making the noise. (no long sleeves etc),...

and used reman'd alternators may have 200,000 miles on them bearings.