Fram Ultra or M1.

I've never used the Subie filter after 2.4k miles and my UOAs have been extremely good. The reports have been posted on the forum for all to see.

I drive everywhere in SoCal and will top 53k next week. I see no discernible reason to use the SOA filter, other than for cost and even then, I'd probably use something else. Fram makes the Subie blue filters and the Fram orange can is the filtering equivalent.

 

+1 for the Fram Ultra. Though I'm sure someone will post that your engine will blow up without a blue filter.... :grin2:

 

Always use OEM, or WIX. Nothing else has a strong enough bypass valve for Subaru. Other filters spend 99% of the time in bypass mode due to higher oil pressure in Subaru motors and they do not work because a filter can't... Filter.... If oil doesn't go through it.

Because of this I use Napa gold or wix (same thing) or OEM. The older black or filters from Japan we're better. I think you can find some if you look hard enough. There are threads about this.

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Always use OEM, or WIX. Nothing else has a strong enough bypass valve for Subaru. Other filters spend 99% of the time in bypass mode due to higher oil pressure in Subaru motors and they do not work because a filter can't... Filter.... If oil doesn't go through it.

Do you have any evidence to back that outrageous 99% claim?

The bypass valve pressure is the pressure drop across the filter element not the gauge pressure some vehicles display on dash.

The paper filter element must bear the full pressure up to the bypass blowoff pressure. When 10 PSI is common the ~22 PSI spec’ed by Subaru is amazing not only for the strength required of the paper element but in how Subaru will accept 22 PSI less pressure out of the filter than the pump delivers.

The bypass valve primarily exists to protect the filter media from collapse.

 

When I did this same research I decided to use WIX.

 

The OEM Subaru filter is only $7.39 at Amazon. At that price, why buy another brand?

https://www.amazon.com/Subaru-15208...=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1545136911&sr=1-1&keywords=Subaru+15208AA15A+Oil+Filter

 

And even less from other Amazon sellers and in multi-packs on Ebay.

 

The bypass argument rears its ugly head once more...

I challenge anyone who pushes the higher bypass setting to a hard set of data supporting the need and if there is one, I'd be interested in seeing that. And an understanding of the pressure differential analysis relative to flow.

And a working explanation of why both Fram and M1 are both wrong in saying the higher bypass is not a concern or necessary.

Saying, "Subie built it so they must know something" is not an answer.

 

The bypass argument rears its ugly head once more...

I challenge anyone who pushes the higher bypass setting to a hard set of data supporting the need and if there is one,

I use WIX.

I don't have any hard data, but I have a turbo running higher than factory boost, and a rather common avenue of failure on this path has been shown to be oil starvation related failures under load over the years. None of them explicitly point to a filter related obstruction for failure, but WIX is made in USA, is a good product, is reasonably affordable off of Rock, and is known to take bypass settings more seriously than other manufacturers (by offering specific models for subaru).

I'm lumping it in with the NGK sparkplug issue at this point. There's not alot of hard data about other reasonably well made reputable spark plugs getting crumby results, just anecdotal.

 

I've been running WIX for years without issue. Not because of any bypass settings, just because they had some manufacturing locally and have a generally good reputation. WIX is now owned by Hummler Mann which also owns Purolator.

As FYI, WIX lists bypass settings as 27psi for the 2.5 and 8-11psi for the 3.6.

 

I've been using the walmart brand, Supertech including the oil, in every subie I've owned since my first '84 GL wagon days. Never had an issue or engine failure with motors having over 300K. Even my '02, '06 and '11 WRX ran great and flawless for 100'sK miles.

 

The Purolator 14615's are decent. The first filter I used was the Puro Boss PBL14615 at @1000 miles, no issues and the start-up rattle was reduced. The next oil change at @5400 miles was with the PBL14610 which is spec'd similar to the well regarded Fram Ultra 7317; I was not too happy with the start up rattle with this one. The current filter is the Fram Ultra 7317 (@10300 miles) and I am not at all happy with the start up engine rattle. Going back to the Boss 14615 for the next change in another 1000 miles. Have also read up on the Wix and will try it down the road. Separately, the blue original filter was also poor (seat of the pants measure) with respect to start up rattle sounds. The relief valve bypass specification is 20-30 psi on the 14615. My son uses this filter on an 18 Crosstrek also without issues.

 

I use the Boss too. No problems. Are there other filters as good or better? Yeah probably.

 

Thanks for all the replies guys......

Im about to do an oil change and came across this video.....
Which it may or may not support the oil filter you are using....
Interesting to say the least.....

@Rub when you say "M1" are you referencing "Mobil 1" ?

BTW... I checked with my local stealership and the oil filter was about $8.00

 

Thanks for all the replies guys......

Im about to do an oil change and came across this video.....
Which it may or may not support the oil filter you are using....
Interesting to say the least.....

https://youtu.be/iTNJLEV8CG8
@Rub when you say "M1" are you referencing "Mobil 1" ?

BTW... I checked with my local stealership and the oil filter was about $8.00

M1 is Mobil1.


A few concerns with the mechanics vid:


1. He doesn't know the difference between nitrile and silicon ADVBs. The general way is by color with black being nitrile and orange the better silicon.


2. He doesn't examine the Ultra or the M1 with the Wix and Napa filters. That would be a little more helpful if he wanted a better result.


3. He doesn't know the difference between a coil and leaf spring in a filter or the pros and cons of each but just kind of endorses the coil spring based on who knows what criteria.


4. He doesn't know what he refers to as cardboard on the Fram is not cardboard at all but he repeats the internet myth. It's a compressed fiberboard that you will see in many other filters from other manufacturers. Cartridge filters found on Toyota and European cars tend to use these.


5. Price buys you difference. The Napa Gold is more expensive than the Fram. Just the way it is that a Porsche Panamara is more expensive than an OB.


6. He doesn't have the foggiest idea of the delta values and there is no analysis of looking at the filtering media to see if it's pure cellulose, a blend of cellulose and synthetic or pure synthetic. That makes a difference.


7. He tears them apart but he's void of the gram holding potential of each, can burst strength, how many miles can be run on filter such as, Honda's recommendation to change the filter at every other oil change.


8. The orange Fram you see is pretty much spot on with the blue can from SOA. Fram makes both so they are very familiar with the bypass settings, as is M1. I've spoken with M1 Technical Support and the high bypass setting doesn't bother them since they address that through superior filter technology. The Ultra filter is the same way.


9. Lastly, the vid doesn't have a scintilla of evidence that any ofthose filters have ruined an engine, taken X number of miles off the life of an engine and he doesn't have any UOAs to support his very ill-informed assessments.


Finally, these vids are very entertaining for those who only scratch the surface and are enthralled by Pez dispensars, much like the cold flow pour tests on Youtube. They have high entertainment value but little of true substance.

 

Concerning the 2.5 liter FB25 engine in MY 2015-2019 Legacy/Outback (only):

Fact: The published bypass valve pressure spec for the OE Subaru filter (23.2 psi) is 60-100% higher than is standard automotive industry practice. WIX and NAPA (reportedly made by WIX) are the only aftermarket oil filters listed with the same high bypass valve pressure rating as the OE Subaru filter. (N.B. The bypass valve rating for the WIX filter is actually a couple of PSI higher than the OE Subaru filter. Some other filter manufacturers don't publish a bypass pressure spec at all.)

As an engineer myself, I choose to assume that the Subaru engineers knew what they were doing when they specified a significantly higher than usual bypass valve opening pressure; certainly they know more about it than anonymous "experts" on the Internet. Perhaps the Subaru engine's high-volume (~5 gallons per minute at 2,000 rpm) oil system design had something to do with the choice ... or perhaps not. Without access to Subaru engineering documents, none of us can ever know for sure. We just know that the Subaru filter's bypass pressure rating is exceptionally high.

Your car, your choice. Changing the engine oil and filter regularly, in accordance with Subaru's published maintenance schedule, is almost certain to be far more important than what brand of oil and filter you choose.

 

Make 100% sense.
OEM'S always have a reason they did something a specific way.

 

IT keeps getting mentioned that subaru engineers designed the filter, and subie oils, etc... Does subaru REALLY make their own filters and fluids? Or do they engineer motors around an oem supplier?

 

Over on BITOG there is poster who uses the name Motorking. He is Jay Buckley who openly says that's his name. He is the Director for a number of different areas at Fram and his Linkedin confirms that. He is a very open poster and doesn't play word games in his posts. Straight shooter.



Over the years he has said, on multiple occasions, that Fram makes many filters for different companies with their own colored can and specs. He has also said, even as recently as 90 days or so ago, that Fram makes the blue Subie filter to Subie specs.


The blue can meets a price point with certain flow rates and bypass settings. Fram makes it but also sells much better filters if the consumer is so inclined.

 

I got the Subaru filters and crush washers in a 2 pack for like $16 on Amazon

It does fine

 

Owner of Superior Subaru and Imports likes WIX and Amsoil, these are not my comments, take what you will from a few of his comments on oil:


"Funny thing - the stuff the Subaru engineers designed wont make 500 HP. So we have had to go elsewhere for quite a few parts.

Do 25 pulls on a dyno running a high performance Blouch turbo on Mobile 1 and you start to see that all oils aren't created equally. Mobile 1 will cause thrust bearing failure in short order. Not enough zinc and film strength is far too weak.

http://store.forcedperformance.net/...et/merchant2/graphics/news/Forced Performance Recommendations for Motor Oil.pdf



I have occasion to cut open filters almost daily so I see their construction and effectiveness or lack thereof quite often. The guys joke that filter cutting is my favorite task. Really I just enjoy failure analysis.... and who doesn't enjoy some really awful carnage to take pics of. It's like watching a train wreck. Horrible, sure - but you can't look away.

I have all the gear to check differential pressure across the filter and data log it also. At some point I will tabulate all the data on different filters and when/how long/how often the bypass valve opens

The differential pressure of the filter only comes into play when the filter cannot flow enough and the internal bypass valve opens. Such as when the oil is extremely cold, very high RPM, or extremely dirty/inefficient element , etc. The oil pressure to the bearings is the same as it's always been - regulated to a max of about 90-95 psi by the bypass valve inside the oil pump. Higher quality filters that have better filtration and better flow (the Subaru Of America [blue] OE filter is abysmal as are Toyota OE filters) do not need a high DP to force oil through a crappy element.

Additionally, the design of the bypass valve has the oil first washing over the filter element. For this reason we recommend WIX filters as they have an "up front" bypass design that does not have unfiltered oil washing over a dirty element before being bypassed. We also use the Amsoil filters - they do not develop high DP (synthetic element, 15,000 mile filter) so do not need the high DP bypass valve. They have 15 psi valves. The WIX are stock psi but a much better design and a better filtration element.


Subaru oil is nothing special. In fact it's pretty ho-hum.

What's really telling about this situation is that Subaru of Japan has not certified the "blue" filters for use on the FA's yet. The dealers are required to use the fat Tokyo Roki filters for those models. I imagine eventually they will get some blue garbage for them instead so the dealers can make fat profits off the cheap blue Fram.

Subaru engine oil filters are junk. Made by Subaru of America to avoid importing the quality Japanese versions and increase profit margin. They are Honeywell/Fram filters with blue paint. Again an Amsoil or even a WIX filter is much better."

 

My opinion (and that's exactly what it is - nothing more, nothing less) is the higher bypass setting is due to the absolutely ridiculously tiny filter being used. The only way to keep such a tiny surface area of filtration from bypassing almost all the time is to force the oil thru it with higher bypass pressure limits.

My first Subaru experience was with an '09 2.5L with the oil filter between the exhaust pipes. PITA if the engine is good and warm. I read somewhere they went to a smaller filter can at some point to minimize the heat absorption. I was rather puzzled then when I bought my '18 2.5L with the filter on top to see how tiny the filter was, even smaller than the '09. When I did my first oil change I mistakenly grabbed a 3.6L filter and quickly found it had the same thread and gasket size as the OEM filter. I went back and got the correct Purolator even though I could find no difference between the two aside from bypass rating and can size. Presumably the 3.6 filter has more media area, but I can't prove that. Logically, there is more than enough room to install the larger filter and mechanically there is nothing to say it wouldn't work perfectly. I don't recall any detail about ADBV's on either filter, but I simply find it curious why Subaru spec's such a tiny little filter. My motorcycle has a larger filter!

Chris

 

Carquest Red

Carquest red is a viable option. See post # 8:

https://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/138-gen-5-2015-2019/473625-oil-filter-ob.html#post5400881

 

Here is another vote for Napa Gold / Wix. I've gotten excellent used oil analysis from using Napa Gold filters.

If you stock up on filters when they are on sale at NAPA, you can get the NAPA Gold filter for under $4.00. I think I paid $3.65 each for the last batch.

 

I paid something in that range for Wix from Rock Auto.

 

Meh, my filter doesn't seem to be leaking yet so why replace it at all? I'll just wait until it rusts out and then get a new one.

 

hahaha. that might not take long in MI? lol

you're actually on to some people - the increasing intervals is changing this, but there are people who change the filter every other oil change because they are no where near clogged when typically removed.

 

Apparently, I was incorrect on my understanding of what oil pressure was being read, however, I am correct in the reason for the higher bypass. Either way, you can argue that technically I was wrong, but the arguement I have made is valid and correct. The bottom line is that with a lower bypass valve the oil will spend less time actually being filtered which is bad, unless you are talking cold start up. Here is some additional reading.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/309758/Re:_Exactly_how_does_a_bypass_

 

Not outrageous at all. It's basic physics. Subaru specs higher bypass valve because boxer engines run higher oil pressure than most engines. The oil filter spec'd to fit several vehicles at your big box store will physically fit, but does not have the same heavy spring resulting in the filter spending more time than it should in bypass mode. But, it's your engine so do what you want.



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How much time does Subaru think is acceptable in bypass mode? What factors are you relying on when you say, "more time than it should"?

I think you'd agree that bypass is overall undesireable and that if non-Subie filters don't have have the high setting, then unnecessary wear results?

 

A roll of toilet paper does pretty good at filtering, the technology has been around for more than 6 decades.
Actually, toliet paper is considered superior to anything on the market for bypass filtration to date.
Now,in all honestly the only thing I care about is that the replacement exceed the OEM'S recommended.
I don't particularly care for Fram as an oil filter.
I do use the OEM air and cabin filters.
The ONLY thing that will be in the 100% category would be replacement parts.
My 17 OB is considered a throw away vehicle to me,however that doesn't mean I won't maintain it properly.
Someone posted that it was absurd for me to believe in using OEM filters and fluids exclusively.
There are times when that is all I will suscribe to on other platforms.

 

They actually sold TP oil filters back in the 60s. can't remember the brand name. I remember my Dad putting one on our 53 Dodge pickup that he and I had modified. I also remember how messy they could be when changing, but that might have been because Dad didn't install it with the canister facing down. But then many canister type filters can be messy.

 

I use WIX 51334XP on the 4 2.5L Gen2s & the Acura TL I maintain.

 

We've been using Fram Ultra's for years in our Subarus. The bypass pressure needed is also a function of the resistance and surface area of the filtering element, so even a lower bypass setting is perfectly adequate with a larger and/or lower resistance filter media, as is typical with the synthetic media in FU and M1 filters.

 

+87

 

I use Fram, Purolator, store brands, used to use Lee and KMART Filters whatever's on sale...always got over 100k on my soobs some up to 200k and all engines were running when i got rid of them...IM(humble)O whoever worries about this has too much money...

 

I just started using WIX filters and now feel even better about my choice ! Thanks for a very informative post.

 

My Subaru dealer provides life time oil changes for free. So I don't have to worry about this one.

 

I've been using supertech for years as well, been working well for me. These aren't race cars.