Nice write-up.

Comments welcome (like what are the other sensors nearby).

The oil pressure sensor that is being replaced here is the one for the Variable Valve Lift (VVL) system (right side). It monitors the functioning of the VVL controls. (Not to be confused with the oil pressure sensor switch used to monitor engine oil pressure and which switches the oil pressure warning light in the instrument panel on or off. This switch is located more-or-less on top of the right engine block, under the alternator.)

The part with the blue connector, slightly behind the oil pressure sensor, and on an angle, is the VVL oil control solenoid.

In that same area there's a third "sensor" that looks similar to the oil pressure sensor switch. It's an inch or so forward of the oil pressure sensor switch and slightly inboard. It's the oil temperature sensor. This is also related to the VVL -- the VVL system functions only when the engine oil is warmed up. (In the above photo, look to the right of the pressure sensor switch, between the two harnesses, the temperature sensor is just visible.)

There's also a VVL pressure switch and solenoid on the left side of the engine, at the front.

Skemcin:

Did you have any CEL or trouble codes associated with the leaking switch? See: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...enance/49468-variable-valve-lift-oil-pressure-switch-resistance.html#post473452

 

good pics and write-up

any sealant or o-ring involved?
got any torque specs?

 

No o-ring but FSM call for liquid gasket on the oil pressure switch threads: "THREE BOND 1324 (Part No. 004403042)"

Torque spec is 12.5 ft-lbs for the oil pressure switch.

The oil pressure switch threaded fitting is tapered; the diameter increases the deeper the fitting goes into the block, so it naturally gets tighter the more it's turned in. It's important to not over-tighten, as there's a risk of cracking the support area around the fitting. See: Just messed up big!!! Crap!!!!

Edit 01-2022: There are some reports that even when using a torque wrench for the 12.5 ft-lbs, the base cracked. This might have been due to an error with the wrench or method, or a flaw in the base. Might be better to stop well below the torque spec and then see if there's any leakage.

 

No o-ring but FSM call for liquid gasket on the oil pressure switch threads: "THREE BOND 1324 (Part No. 004403042)"

Torque spec is 12.5 ft-lbs for the oil pressure switch.

The oil pressure switch threaded fitting is tapered; the diameter increases the deeper the fitting goes into the block, so it naturally gets tighter the more it's turned in. It's important to not over-tighten, as there's a risk of cracking the support area around the fitting. See: Just messed up big!!! Crap!!!!

You're a life saver. Putting in sensors on a new head and wondered about why it was not going in all the way and getting tight. Weird design....

 

Thank you for providing that additional information - I was hoping someone would find this and contribute - much appreciated.

And, no CEL. I had only noticed the leak and took the time to diagnosis it. First tried teflan (white plumber) tape but there was no change. I figured it was leaking from the metal-to-plastic joint/threshold.

Thanks for the torque spec - that will give me something to follow up on, along with adding some liquid gasket.

 

I replaced the driver side oil pressure switch due to an oil leak and the passenger side oil pressure switch as a pre-caution on my 2007 Legacy 2.5i wagon. Leak is now fixed. I am adding my $0.02 to this thread as I found it to contain the highest percentage of the most relevant information of all the threads I read on this topic, but I was still longing for a more complete thread. I hope you find my addition useful. Thank you to Skemcin and plain OM (you show up in many oil pressure switch threads) for this thread and thanks to all the other posters in the numerous other threads that I found helpful.

Here's my story: I threw a P0026 CEL, which got me started troubleshooting. Oil was low, needed topping off (about a quart), and was due for a change (i.e. dirty oil at ~4500mi.) all of which are cited as common symptoms of a failed oil pressure switch. I had signs of a leak around the driver side switch. The switch (SOA 25240AA060) was relatively inexpensive (~$20), and I read in at least two threads where the second switch went bad shortly after the first switch went bad, so I replaced both. Leak fixed.


This thread contains a good picture of a leaking switch (mine looked just like it):
http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...k.org/forums/109-gen-3-2005-2009/29119-my-2007-outback-leaking-burning-oil.html


This link contains a good blog post with a few links for those interested in more technical content including one link back to this thread:
Subaru Error Code After Oil Change | Welcome to the Blog of Luke SkyTalker


Tips: Use brake cleaner to degrease the area around the switch before you remove the failed switch, use a 15/16 deep well socket, use threadlocker (Three Bond XXXX or equivalent) on the new switch, use a torque wrench.

Keywords: CEL, P0026, P0028, Oil Pressure Sensor, Oil Pressure Switch, Oil Leak

 

I'll keep this in mind if I ever have to change it myself. Heck, as much as I like to save money on labor, I might have the shop do this and have them responsible for the "oh crap" should it happen!
That picture of the crack made me cringe! I feel bad for the guys who had this happen!

Also noted someone who changed the diff fluid saying the threads were also tapered and saying he torques to 22 ft-lbs (manual states 36) just to be safe, no leaks...

 

great thread and thanks plain om for originally bringing this leak to my attention.

anyone know where to find three bond 1324 though?

 

How to troubleshoot if the oil pressure switch next to the variable valve lift solenoid is causing the P0026 Code.
P0026 REFERS TO THE PASSENGER SIDE PRESSURE SWITCH OR VVL SOLENOID.
P0028 REFERS TO THE DRIVER SIDE PRESSURE SWITCH OR VVL SOLENOID.
I had a problem with the passenger side and here is my instructional on how I was able to fix my problem code in my 2010 2.5i manual Outback. I hope this helps any of you out with either of these codes.
(Test resistance with the car turned off and keys out between terminal and base of switch).
Once you test the switch, which is a normally closed switch, for resistance you should be able to tell if it went bad or not. I tested the driver side resistance versus the passenger side resistance. The passenger side resistance was double versus the driver side when testing it on the engine before removal. A new pressure switch resistance was 1.7 ohms. The old bad pressure switch resistance when removed was 24.4 ohms (the high resistance means that the NORMALLY OPEN switch was stuck in an OPEN position. Also, the resistance will vary on a bad pressure switch).
Once I replaced the switch, I disconnected the negative battery terminal for 5 minutes to clear the codes and reset the computer.

AS A SIDE NOTE - IF the code came back, it would mean that this pressure switch was not the only culprit, I would then purchase the Variable Valve Lift Solenoid and replace it as well. The solenoid can throw this code if it goes bad or gets clogged.
CHECK YOUR ENGINE OIL, a low oil condition can cause this code to appear as well. search for and watch a youtube video ------->>> 2010 Subaru 2.5 Variable Valve Lift Solenoid and Switch Testing

 

oil light on dash

If a oil pressure sensor switch fails, does the oil pressure always come on at the dashboard? Or just the check engine light?

 

Does anyone have any TRICKS to replacing the DRIVERS SIDE VVL Solenoid???

The "retaining" bolt is slightly hidden behind the block protrusion and the last thing I want to do is remove the Timing Belt/etc/etc/etc since that is major activity to replace a simple Solenoid.??

New Owner: '08 Outback 2.5i (not turbo), car is throwing a P0026 code so we bought both solenoids to proactively replace both.


ANY THOUGHTS ???

 

P0026 is for the right side.

When the P0026 (right side) or P0028 (left side) codes appear, it's not necessarily the solenoid that's faulty; it could equally, if not more likely, be the related oil pressure sensor switch. Have you tested/changed the oil pressure switch(es)?

 

be careful torquing those things - go easy.

 

I remember during one of my versions of the Frankenwagon build. I was "adjusting" my AVCS solenoids with a wood dowel as a drift to gain clearance. I was driving the drift with a 2lb sledge hammer. Was surprised how much of a "beating" they would take. Of course they were red-necked at that point and didn't last.
@golf5367

I don't know your exact situation. Can you post a pic? Maybe I have a rabbit in my hat after I see what you are looking at.

 

^^^^ oh, maybe it's the switches I'm thinking of ??? one of them can crack it's 'boss'/area of the head in which it's mounted.

 

All,

I love these forums.

The P0026 was caused by the solenoid. We removed the entire assembly checked the screen/etc inside and it was all clear. No change in the code. I bought TWO of the solenoids and replace the P0026 (PASS SIDE) and the code went away.

The car ran fine but I had the second solenoid so i decided to throw that one on the DRIVERS SIDE as a PM.

@plain OM - thanks for the link to the other topic that was the ticket. Removal was EASIER but not easy. Both solenoids are now in and the car runs perfectly as a 11 year old car can.

As always appreciate all the input from the forums. I use this route for my other car as well and its amazing how accurate the advice is .... learn from those who have gone before.

THANKS !!!!

 

Thanks for the follow-up.

It wasn't clear that the P0026 had already been resolved by a new solenoid. Had that been apparent, and the left side work was "pre-emptive", it might have saved a few posts. In any event, it's good to know that the P0026 was caused by the right side solenoid (rarer than the pressure switch, but it does happen), and that the procedure to change the left side worked.

Perhaps add your car (or cars) info into the UserCP so that it shows up at the left in every post. That way, we don't have to go back to find the first post where the car info might have been provided. Could add your location as well.