Is there an easier way to make the rear 12v outlet constant on instead of running a wire from the battery? Like is there a locaiton close I can tap into? Need 10a or so capability for my water pump, (fridge is only 5 amp)
grantwilson
its not all that simple. its like an hour process to run a wire from the front to the back. Ive done it 5 times now. Trying to avoid it. Its not a high load, and within the factory circuit parameters. Didn't know if anyone knew a hot wire back there to tap into that would work.
I need this too, and i would gladly write how to, only if i could ged all schematics for this...
I doubt there is a 12v constant anywhere in the rear of the vehicle unless the taillights are ground turned on or something.
Im just going to have to get a firewall boot and run a wire. I need to run my in car winch wire anyways and a front light bar wire also
Im just going to have to get a firewall boot and run a wire. I need to run my in car winch wire anyways and a front light bar wire also
When you're running a bunch of extra services, sometimes it works out best to run one extra heavy gauge wire to the back. You can make a tiny distribution panel, and even put in a relay to duplicate constant and ignition switched power, both services fed from the one fat new wire.
Ill overhaul my electric system this fall when i have time. For now i just need to run a fridge lol
This is what I did, and it works great! Super easy, too.
1) Order 2 ea. Add a Circuit fuse tap, ATT mini type. You will also need an extra 15 amp ATT mini type fuse. I bought my fuse taps on Ebay, but they are also available on Amazon. I tried buying them from the local Autozone, but they didn't have the ATT mini size.
2) Butt splice together the pig tail ends of the two fuse taps.
3) Pull the 15 amp fuse from fuse 8 and put it in one of the fuse taps. Also put a new 15 amp fuse in the other slot on the same fuse tap. Plug this fuse tap into fuse 8 in the fuse block under your dash. Fuse 8 is the brake lights. It is constantly hot.
4) Pull the 20 amp fuse from fuse 20 and put in the other fuse tape, in the slot furthest from the spades. Plug this end into fuse 13. Fuse 13 powers both the 12 volt accessory outlet in the arm rest storage tray, and the outlet in the back. That's it. This will give you constant power to both of these outlets. Not only will you be able to power your camping fridge, but you will also be able to charge cell phones and such up front.
Fuse 8 and fuse 13 are the correct connections for a Gen 4. I'm not sure on other generations. Total price of the two fuse taps, an assortment of fuses, and a butt splice will be under $20. It was well worth it to me.
I truly resent Subaru treating us like children who aren't capable of being responsible to not drain the battery when the car isn't running. If I'm not smart enough to keep from draining the battery by running accessories, then that's my problem.
1) Order 2 ea. Add a Circuit fuse tap, ATT mini type. You will also need an extra 15 amp ATT mini type fuse. I bought my fuse taps on Ebay, but they are also available on Amazon. I tried buying them from the local Autozone, but they didn't have the ATT mini size.
2) Butt splice together the pig tail ends of the two fuse taps.
3) Pull the 15 amp fuse from fuse 8 and put it in one of the fuse taps. Also put a new 15 amp fuse in the other slot on the same fuse tap. Plug this fuse tap into fuse 8 in the fuse block under your dash. Fuse 8 is the brake lights. It is constantly hot.
4) Pull the 20 amp fuse from fuse 20 and put in the other fuse tape, in the slot furthest from the spades. Plug this end into fuse 13. Fuse 13 powers both the 12 volt accessory outlet in the arm rest storage tray, and the outlet in the back. That's it. This will give you constant power to both of these outlets. Not only will you be able to power your camping fridge, but you will also be able to charge cell phones and such up front.
Fuse 8 and fuse 13 are the correct connections for a Gen 4. I'm not sure on other generations. Total price of the two fuse taps, an assortment of fuses, and a butt splice will be under $20. It was well worth it to me.
I truly resent Subaru treating us like children who aren't capable of being responsible to not drain the battery when the car isn't running. If I'm not smart enough to keep from draining the battery by running accessories, then that's my problem.
It may be simple jump wire to some relay, like my old forester did.
It had own relay to center and rear outlets so i took out relay and replaced it with one lead to relay socket.
But i am guessing because no schematics...
It had own relay to center and rear outlets so i took out relay and replaced it with one lead to relay socket.
But i am guessing because no schematics...
Get 2 of these: [ame]http://www.amazon.com/Shipping-CIRCUIT-BLADE-PROFILE-FUSETAP/dp/B00K17A2E6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1437560712&sr=8-3&keywords=fuse+tap[/ame]
First, solder the 2 wires together and use some shrink tubing to insulate the joint. Take the fuse out of the rear accessory plug slot. Take one of the fuse taps and install it on a high amperage, always hot fuse slot. Take the other tap, with the fuse for the load wire installed, and the fuse for the actual fuse slot removed. Insert it into the accessory plug supply slot. You might have to pull it out, rotate it and re-install it in the slot. you have to get the side of the fuse supplying current to the plug. Just make sure you don't install a fuse into the line fuse side of the tap. Doing so will cause current to flow to the rear accessory plug from the original switched lead as well, you don't want that. You want to terminate that circuit. Now you have the accessory plug hot all the time. And when it comes time to sell it off, just unplug everything and nobody will ever know you where there...
First, solder the 2 wires together and use some shrink tubing to insulate the joint. Take the fuse out of the rear accessory plug slot. Take one of the fuse taps and install it on a high amperage, always hot fuse slot. Take the other tap, with the fuse for the load wire installed, and the fuse for the actual fuse slot removed. Insert it into the accessory plug supply slot. You might have to pull it out, rotate it and re-install it in the slot. you have to get the side of the fuse supplying current to the plug. Just make sure you don't install a fuse into the line fuse side of the tap. Doing so will cause current to flow to the rear accessory plug from the original switched lead as well, you don't want that. You want to terminate that circuit. Now you have the accessory plug hot all the time. And when it comes time to sell it off, just unplug everything and nobody will ever know you where there...
@grantwilson
When you run this can you post up the route you take? Just looking for ideas. I have to run my dashcam wire back to the back and I'm not sure I want to pull the headliner down.
When you run this can you post up the route you take? Just looking for ideas. I have to run my dashcam wire back to the back and I'm not sure I want to pull the headliner down.
Last week I did this mod for my fridge before a multi-day trip to Anza Borrego with the wife. I wired fuse 28 to fuse 7 (labeled Cigar). Rear outlet and outlet in arm rest are constant now.
However, the outlet in the cubby hole in the dash (under the climate controls) is no longer working. If I undo the mod and replace the fuse, it works again.
I have 2 fuses in the fuse tap on #28, and just one fuse in the fuse tap on #7. That single fuse is in the top slot, farthest from the panel.
Has anyone else had this problem?
However, the outlet in the cubby hole in the dash (under the climate controls) is no longer working. If I undo the mod and replace the fuse, it works again.
I have 2 fuses in the fuse tap on #28, and just one fuse in the fuse tap on #7. That single fuse is in the top slot, farthest from the panel.
Has anyone else had this problem?
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