According to the parts diagram in the link, part# 383375200 is correct. It's item #30 in the drawing and was in use from 1994-1999, so it should fit your 96.

http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_45/train/differential_individual/

 

Thanks, I took the chance and ordered one online, this is yet another time that the pull down menu on EbayMotors was incorrect.

Love your site, even Subaru site did not have it listed.

 

Yeah, that's a handy site. Bookmark it if you haven't already.

"Pull down menus" and fitment charts at retail websites and even brick-and-mortar stores are rarely complete and can be misleading. This doesn't apply to your case, but going direct to the manufacturer to check fitment is always a good idea before ordering or buying anything.

 

Used a 1/2" drive socket to remove the differential plug, now it is almost stripped and do not trust it to tighten properly.:28:

it's usually not the plug itself that strips, it's usually the threads in the diff backing plate that will strip.

replace just the plug won't fix it - you'll likely need to repair the threads.

or replace the rear diff backing plate.

 

I suspect he means the square hole is stripped.

 

Thank goodness it is not the plug that is stripped, only the square drive. There was a great post here explaining the need for a 13mm square lug, the 1/2" drive could be used being a compromize of 12.7mm.

In my case I used an impact gun that did the damage, in fact it did not loosen the plug at all. What I ended up doing is placing a 1/2" breaker bar arm on a car jack, lifted the car up then pressed down on the hood to break it free.:gasp::gasp::gasp:

 

nice hit!

 

Bringing back an old thread here - does anyone know the drain bolt size?... M## x ##? I've been searching everywhere with the Part # provided above, but nothing comes up.

The fill and drain plugs on the rear differential may be stripped, so just want to be prepared in case I need to retap the threads. I got the plugs loose but even after a half turn, they both still feel very tight.

Thank You.

 

Anyone?

 

The STEEL plug in the ALUMINUM case is a recipe for galvanic corrosion.

The rear diff plugs with 'square' drive are METRIC... do not use 1/2 inch driver. It is 13mm square which is available at ANY autoparts store.

The threads are TAPERED metric threads. It is a VERY good idea to use teflon tape on the threads before re-installing. Only make tight enough to not leak. The taper could easily crack the aluminum case. Also, the aluminum virtually eliminates possibility of the plug getting stuck in the aluminum.

Before someone suggests that bits of teflon may get into the pumpkin.... this is not a concern because the gears will not be damaged in any way by teflon. (some lubricants even contain teflon)

 

The STEEL plug in the ALUMINUM case is a recipe for galvanic corrosion.

The rear diff plugs with 'square' drive are METRIC... do not use 1/2 inch driver. It is 13mm square which is available at ANY autoparts store.

The threads are TAPERED metric threads. It is a VERY good idea to use teflon tape on the threads before re-installing. Only make tight enough to not leak. The taper could easily crack the aluminum case. Also, the aluminum virtually eliminates possibility of the plug getting stuck in the aluminum.

Before someone suggests that bits of teflon may get into the pumpkin.... this is not a concern because the gears will not be damaged in any way by teflon. (some lubricants even contain teflon)

Ouch - that is a recipe for corrosion

After realizing the amount of pressure that will be required to break the plugs loose, I will definitely get the 13mm square drive - actually a buddy of mine with his own shop will. Will be easier to work on this diff while the car is on the lift.

When I performed the diff fluid change on my 98 years ago, I used a torque wrench and tightened to 35 ft/lb.

Teflon is a good idea and we will make sure to add the tape. While on this topic of slowing or eliminating the corrosion process - is there anything wrong with using Anti-Seize instead?

Thank you.

 

I considered using antiseaze but ended up with the teflon tape..... there are several formulations of antiseaze and I am not sure how well they 'play' when in contact with various oils. I am CERTAIN that teflon tape is inert.

As an aside, when I bleed brakes, I remove the bleeder-nipples and add teflon tape to the threads. This helps make a seal when using my vacuum-bleeder and reduces the chance of the nipples corroding into the aluminum calipers.

BTW: Make certain you use REAL Teflon tape (not the cheep plasticy stuff) If it does not say the word Teflon on the package, it is not the real deal.

 

To ease your concerns, sometimes I have to use a 3' pry bar with the adapter to break the plug loose. Also, some come out difficult most of the way but the diff case will not be damaged.

You could also use a small torch to heat up the case prior to breaking it loose.You won't damage the diff or the case by using heat. I use a torch on aluminum heads on Fords all the time when the exhaust bolts break (without fail at least half all the time; Ford uses 6mm bolts for the manifolds).