These new DBW systems can take a few driving cycles to learn an idle. Mine has shown the same behavior, stalling at lights for the first few cycles after having the battery out. Once they learn the idle, they're good to go.

So maybe just start/idle it a few more times before digging deeper.

 

Double check your spark plug wires. Make sure they're fully seated on the plugs, and the coil.

 

So I let it idle, after making sure all plug wires were seated correctly. And after driving up north for hour/half drive, it still drops idle and wants to stall at stops. It never completely dies, but the at oil temp will flickers just before it wants to stall but then continues its low idle.

Should I start with the IACV? but not sure if my year has is built into the throttle body already, and if I should just clean the throttle body to get started. I have noticed in some threads this might be the problem, but then again a lot of threads seem to come from rough idle problems. Is this the thread to follow in my case:

Idle Speed Control Valve Cleaning

Some other threads say something about a "grounding mod" that might help.

any continued help would be great, Thanks

 

well, definitely double check the IACV hose. if it's loose or disturbed/leaking you will have idle problems.

 

2006 is, as noted, drive-by-wire; there's no IAC valve. The ECM controls the throttle to maintain idle speed.

What type of plug wires did you use?

If you're sure about the plug wiring, check the connector to the MAF. A bad connection, or malfunctioning MAF can cause a poor idle.

Also, how did you clean it?

 

maybe there's a pending code?

or try to get fuel trim and other data out of it.

Definitely go over every inch of the engine bay where you were working. maybe a displaced connector or vacuum line.

 

I replaced plug wires and plugs from the dealership. I get a discount there on parts, just not labor. But I always use OEM, found this out the hard way a couple of years ago.$$$

To clean the MAF, I used CRC Cleaner. Just got back from up north, and everything drives fine once I'm going, but again when I come to a stop, it hesitates and almost dies.

I'm going to try to reset the ECM again and see if that works. And if that doesn't I will see if you guys can link me to the procedures in finding the codes. I also have to change the transmission fluid today. So I'll keep you posted and see if we can get this solved.

Thanks again

 

A hairline crack in a spark plug insulator could cause your symptoms, and possibly a CEL code of "misfire in cylinder X" as well. At least it did for me after changing out my plugs and accidentally dropping one on the floor.

 

For reading the codes, see: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...self-illustrated-guides/19053-06-09-how-read-diagnostic-trouble-codes-dtcs.html

Might also look at http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...5-parts-accessories-performance/39426-freessm-complete-access-your-ecm-tcu.html for programs that can enable you to observe and log a wide range of engine and transmission parameters in order to see what's happening while idling, and driving.

 

So I reset the ECM, for the 4th time, and that seemed to do the trick! Got a little lazy yesterday, so now I'm on to changing the transmission fluid and the differential fluids and somehow getting my Isimple to play songs rather then just charge me phone.

thanks again for all the help and input.