[tdelker]

Anyone use these boots: Beck Arnley 103-2976 Constant Velocity Joint Boot Kit

This is for a 2005 outback XT (Turbo) inner passenger

The amazon comment was that they didn't use the grease because it didn't look right. Where are others getting their boots?

I'm a bit confused about how to take that joint apart. I don't seem to quite 'get' it. There is a spring ring I need to compress?

 

[Manner Lee]

inner boot replacement

Hi, tdelker,
My brother in law and I changed my front boots yesterday.
I got Boot kit from NAPA at $18.25 each. I reused the retainer rings in the boots.
There is no spring pin in cv axle outback 2005.
I spent most my time for break down of the jammed parts such as ball joint, axle, and brake disc. Without my brother in law, proper tools, and lifting machine, I couldn't have done since I've never done brake job before. For the ball joint, I used an iron stake (1" diameter, 30 " Length) to pry it instead of using a large pry-bar . For axle, I used an axle puller which I bought from Amazon. For brake disk, I used 8mm bolt into holes in the disc to force the disc off the hub as it is mentioned in the manual.

 

[tdelker]

Excellent. I've replaced the front suspension and brakes and rotors recently, so this is all pretty familiar to me. I wonder if I tore the boot or stressed the boot during the suspension work? I didn't think I did, but it could be.

Did you need the axle puller?

I will try going after the ball joint, things don't tend to rust too bad here in Colorado. But if it doesn't work out, I'll go back to the strut knuckle and just get an alignment (again).

Why did you take the rotor off? I didn't think that was needed. Oh, maybe you were also doing the brakes and rotors?

Question in general - How careful are people marking how how the axle to diff line up? Do you make it so you go back in the same splines you took it out at? What about the inner joint balls/races? I saw a document that talked about marking each of the three balls on their shafts to make sure they end up back at the same rotation with respect to each other as well as clocking in the green housing. Or is that not necissary? I'll probably do it, and I'll probably end up screwing it up, and it probably won't matter

What about the banding tool?

Just ordered the Beck Arnley boots off amazon. Slightly more, but come right to my house. I'll pick up the axle nut from the dealer and some brake cleaner from the auto parts store and see if they have an axle puller and banding tool to lend.

Anything I'm missing? I'm not going to replace oil seals until I'm in there and see something leaking.

Thanks!

Tom

 

[Manner Lee]

Did you need the axle puller?

1) Absolutely, I did not want to damage the bearing by hitting the axle.

I will try going after the ball joint, things don't tend to rust too bad here in Colorado. But if it doesn't work out, I'll go back to the strut knuckle and just get an alignment (again).

Why did you take the rotor off? I didn't think that was needed. Oh, maybe you were also doing the brakes and rotors?

2) If there is rotor, I cannot apply axle puller because the diameter of my puller is too small for the rotor.

Question in general - How careful are people marking how how the axle to diff line up? Do you make it so you go back in the same splines you took it out at?

3) I do not even know whether the axle to diff line up, but I just keep maneuvering and feel a snap of the axle when it fit into the diff. It was not harder than my thought, but I needed to keep pushing while I was rotating the axle.

What about the inner joint balls/races? I saw a document that talked about marking each of the three balls on their shafts to make sure they end up back at the same rotation with respect to each other as well as clocking in the green housing. Or is that not necissary? I'll probably do it, and I'll probably end up screwing it up, and it probably won't matter

4) DO the marking if you can. I couldn't do it.

What about the banding tool?

5) It depends on the type of clamp. I ordered wrong one. For ear type clamp (NAPA boot kit), I just used my cutting-plier.

Just ordered the Beck Arnley boots off amazon. Slightly more, but come right to my house. I'll pick up the axle nut from the dealer and some brake cleaner from the auto parts store and see if they have an axle puller and banding tool to lend.

Anything I'm missing? I'm not going to replace oil seals until I'm in there and see something leaking.

6) I did not touch the oil seals even I prepared it in case.

To reform the axle nut notch wasn't easy as there was no enough space between notch and axle. As the material of the nut notch was soft enough me to unscrew the nut with my breaker bar with cheating pipe.

In case, you may want have a helper and car.

 

[kkjellquist]

Just got an oil change and was told the passenger side CV boot was 'busted' on the 02 OBW w/ 158K. I've been trying to do more things myself more because I am interested more than anything else.

With that said I am not a car guy by any means. I have done oil changes and just did a basic tuneup, but my next project was going to be brake pads when needed. Would be my first time.

With all that said it sounds like this might be a bit above my level at this time. I do have a mechanic I trust so what would I save if I did take a stab at this. I do have a friend with ever tool under the sun so I could ask him for help.

***EDIT***

After discussing with my friend and reading all these threads I'm gonna let the mechanic take this one. At a mechanic I trust it's $130 for a boot and $187 if the entire axle is needed. My '02 spent many years in New England and I'm sure everything's a bit messy and stuck under there!

 

[1 Lucky Texan]

just a few additions after doing an inner joint today on a 2003 H6 Outback.

The amount of grease included in the Beck Arnley boot kit is 120gms - ~4.25oz by weight. It seemed heavier/thicker than what was running out of the joint. The paperwork with the kit indicates the grease is lithium based with moly added. i have read that inners and outer use different grease.......? I used all of the package. I first used a flat stick to fill the ridges inside the boot, I used a narrow stick to smear the bearings, then squeezed the rest into the cup.

I think in post #32 there was a brief reference to this next point; the 'rings' that come off the bearings have an asymmetrical profile. Try to leave 2 on and carefully remove one, keeping the outer surface in mind, clean it, and eyeball its profile. The 'narrow' side faces 'out'. I didn't try fitting one backwards so, i don't know if can be assembled incorrectly.

The 3 little bearings on the end seem to be held in place by very small circlips. Does anyone ever take them apart to clean, inspect or grease? How?

 

[idosubaru]

Anyone use these boots: Beck Arnley 103-2976 Constant Velocity Joint Boot Kit

i bought many of them. i've had some only last 2-3 years. i'll be using Subaru from here on out, except maybe rust buckets that only have a few years left, maybe they'll get my remaining Beck Arnleys.

if anyone wants Beck Arnley boots - please buy them from me!

 

[idosubaru]

***EDIT***

After discussing with my friend and reading all these threads I'm gonna let the mechanic take this one. At a mechanic I trust it's $130 for a boot and $187 if the entire axle is needed.

do not replace the axle. google aftermarket subaru axles and you'll see thread after thread after thread after thread. i've seen countless issues myself, they're a waste of time. they'd be throwing away an axle that will last the life of the vehicle and replacing it with lesser quality stuff. pretty dumb in my opinion. mechanics aren't bad people, they just have other concerns/issues to deal with so this is one case you get hosed if you listen to their preferred method.

if you have an OBW or higher stanced Subaru, i'd also get Subaru boots, for years i had aftermarkets and after perusing my excel sheets i see them only lasting 2-3 years on Outbacks (which have higher angles and stress on boots - lower impreza's and legacy's have fewer issues). i'll be getting subaru from here on out.

 

[1 Lucky Texan]

do soob boots come in a 'kit' like the BA? Bands, grease packet, snap ring?

 

[idosubaru]

do soob boots come in a 'kit' like the BA? Bands, grease packet, snap ring?

not the ones i bought. i'm not sure what the dealer does?

some people buy a stock of clamps and clamp tool you like and have them available. but that's not ideal and a one-stop-solution would be nice.

 

[1 Lucky Texan]

I could def. see dealers having grease guns or maybe even pump systems with a proper grease. And they may have snap-rings and bands in stock so - they're probably hooked-up OK. But, I'd bet they also are likely to just swap in an axle and never mess with re-booting.

 

[avk]

do soob boots come in a 'kit' like the BA? Bands, grease packet, snap ring?

Some do, you have to look in the catalog to figure it out. They're pretty pricey, too.

 

[simp1yamazn]

My local dealer has remanned axles for $200 and then $40 refund for your old one making them $160. Not bad if you want an OEM axle and don't want to reboot yourself.

 

[avk]

Sorry for saying it for the umpteenth time, but the risk factor with re-manufactured axles is that you don't know what the core had been through (neglect/abuse/twisted wreck etc). With your own axle, you know it's only a worn-out boot and if caught early, the repair will make it good as new.

 

[simp1yamazn]

True, but there are also a fair number of us (including me) who had the aftermarket axles fitted either before they took ownership (2nd owner of my car) or who did not know the issues and no longer have their OEMs. Taking a chance from car-part.com is just as risky except you will still need to reboot once they arrive. Not saying everyone should trade theirs in, just an option that may fit certain people's needs.

 

[1 Lucky Texan]

True, but there are also a fair number of us (including me) who had the aftermarket axles fitted either before they took ownership (2nd owner of my car) or who did not know the issues and no longer have their OEMs. Taking a chance from car-part.com is just as risky except you will still need to reboot once they arrive. Not saying everyone should trade theirs in, just an option that may fit certain people's needs.

yep - I let one of my OEM's go so, only have one.

I might buy a used one to reboot.

 

[avk]

Will a dealer refund core deposit if an aftermarket axle is turned in?

 

[Benadam]

Another question, related though: How much inner wear can these OEM axle cups take? The one from my old axle I took out does show some heavy marks, then again, this is the first one I ever looked at anyway
I'm asking because this would justify rebooting it or not, if the wear is too much already anyway.

 

[jdim88]

I noticed that both of my inner CV boots are leaking grease from underneath the metal zip tie at the ends of the boot. The boots don't have cracks yet. Is there any reason that I wouldn't want to just snip off the old metal clamps and replace them with new ones with the hopes of getting some extra mileage out of these boots?

 

[Brucey]

I noticed that both of my inner CV boots are leaking grease from underneath the metal zip tie at the ends of the boot. The boots don't have cracks yet. Is there any reason that I wouldn't want to just snip off the old metal clamps and replace them with new ones with the hopes of getting some extra mileage out of these boots?

It couldn't hurt, and worse case you'll be out the cost of some zip ties.