Are you CERTAIN your calipers are "shot"? I am not sure I have EVER seen a Subaru brake-caliper go bad. (Especially if the fluid is changed every 3 years.)

Please check again to see if perhaps the just slider-pins may be sticking.

 

Rotors - get whatever you want. Subaru is great, an aftermarket will work too if you're replacing calipers anyway and maintain the calipers well.
You can also have your existing rotors turned.

Calipers: Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market
people are often parting cars out on here - someone probably has those calipers available. I probably do but I just don't have time to mess with looking for and identifying them.

They fail so rarely they're not worth anything.

Those shouldn't be bad - what's wrong with them? Subaru calipers routinely last the life of the vehicle. Very rarely calipers leak.

Now the slides - those are a constant debacle in the rust belt.

If you're dealing with slides, do this to run them the rest of the life of the vehicle and should go a long way to keeping your rotors in good shape too:
1. free them - hammer, twist, twist, torch if needed
2. clean them up or replace the slides
3. throw away the rubber bushings on the slides - they do absolutely nothing and add a failure mode to the caliper.
4. use SilGlyde brake caliper grease - that stuff is awesome, 10x better than the green permatex...but I live in rust belt land too so slides are a constant debacle.
5. change brake fluid.
6. check slides and regrease every time the tires are rotated or changed to summer/winter tires.

another 100,000 miles easily.

while yo'ure at it - i'd replace the brake caliper clips if there's any build up on them - rust or dust build up.

 

I'm not sure what is wrong here, but the brakes make a god awful grinding noise when braking after 10 minutes of driving. Not a squeal or squeak, but a grinding noise. Everything looks rusted all to ****. I need new pads and rotors sure sure. I just figured I could replace the caliper so the new parts don't get destroyed if the caliper was causing this.

...so I am just assuming the calipers are shot. It could be the slides or it could be a sticky piston. Can I rebuild either of those items without removing the caliper from the brake line? If I have to remove the caliper (and thus bleed the system later) I would rather slap a new caliper on there.

New caliper clips for sure.

 

I'm not sure what is wrong here, but the brakes make a god awful grinding noise when braking after 10 minutes of driving.

Brakes always make a noise when the pads are bad and sliders are stuck, this is totally normal brake maintenance - follow directions above.

Install new pads and sliders cleaned/regreased - follow my directions above.

None of it requires removing the calipers or bleeding the brakes.

You can ignore the surface rust - calipers and rotors are all just simple iron and rust like crazy the moment it rains one day, it's surface rust.

You probably also have rust on the rotor face where it shouldn't rust - that's because the slides aren't allowing full contact of the pad to rotor to clean off the rust. You don't need to replace them - that rust will wear off once the brakes are working properly.

If the rotors aren't vibrating when braking - like coming off a highway exit ramp - they're fine and will work perfectly if you simply follow my directions above - clean, regrease the slides, replace pads and clips.

 

No one makes "new" calipers anymore. They rebuild the OEM cores.

I have had a piston stick before and the local advance auto parts store does not stock the rebuild kit so I swaped calipers. (which now looks rusted as crap)

I suspect you have a stuck slider pin and now the pads are shot.

Rockauto.com has great prices on Centric rotors, the "premium" are coated to prevent rust and are about $30 each.

Akebono is a OEM supplier for a lot of manufactures and don't have the marketing mark up like the consumer known brands.

 

if you need turn-key service from a good supplier, try KNS Brakes

most of us are comfortable shopping and mixing/matching parts from multiple soucres and would probably shop around at rockauto, amazon or on-line dealers like fredbeansparts.com , subarupartsforyou.com or subarugenuineparts.com , etc. Sometimes, you can get your local dealer to match prices from on-line dealers.

OEM stuff is very good quality - but you will do just fine with Centric rotors as mentioned above, and any name brand ceramic or semi-metallic pad. I like Centric PosiQuiet Ceramic.

make sure you use some SylGlide or permatex brake lube on pins, sliding and contact surfaces (except of course on the pads or swept-area of the rotor.) New rotors need to be cleaned with detergent or solvent to remove any protective grease/coating. Good time to consider a brake flush, or bleed heavily - don't let the master cyl. reservoir run dry of fluid!. Be careful with your first 2-3 stops.

consider adjusting the parking brake - search here - there are 'star' wheels behind rubber plugs on the rear dust shields.

 

@lockmedic has a bunch of fancy LGT 2005-2009 stuff on the classifieds here.


for the cost of what you would pay for plain jane quality stuff.

slightly used discs are nice to work with too, vs. new and too slick.

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/67-classifieds/287586-05-09-legacy-gt-brake-kit-upgrade-pretty-much-anything-4.html#post3222378


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The only badly rusted calipers I've ever seen were aftermarket junk that was put on a car after the prior shop convinced the owner that you replace calipers when you do a brake job. Pretty sure the shop was getting high core values for the good stock calipers and putting cheap junk on the car to up their profit margin.

 

Les Schwab is famous for doing just that.

 

Honestly, I've had good luck with pad/rotor kits from Ebay, but what do I know.

 

I recently needed brakes on our '11 when it was over 50K. First the fronts at 55K and then the rears at 62,500. My mechanic suggested getting OEM units (I'm getting too old to be crawling under the car, especially when the weather is less than perfect!!) and I did. I used the logic that they lasted this long and served me well, they should last at least the same length of time/miles again. I also seem to recall a thread on this site that was generally in favor of OEM units as well. I have been fortunate in that the calipers and sliders haven't been an issue and my rotors are also good. Maybe when I get to the next set at 100-120K I might need to change them and do the advised slider pin "mod", but for now, I'm sticking with what Subaru offered and am very happy.