If any one wants to do 'seafoam', that is good opportunity to seafoaming the intake. attach length of 3/8" OD clear vinyl tubing would fit perfectly to ream out the PCV hose, then vacuum suck the seafoam to the intake slowly.

 

It seems to me, these valves will never wear out, they just get dirty. I'm dropping the old one in a jar of solvent. I'll use it again next time...

Update: I will just toss the old valve.

Why: I recently changed a PCV valve on another car, and took the opportunity to suck on the new valve before installing, and suck on the old valve after cleaning. The old valve was wide open...fine..but it didn't CLOSE under vacuum. The "rattle test" doesn't tell you this. And if the valve doesn't close, you might as well just have an open hose from crankcase to manifold. :1pat:

If any one wants to do 'seafoam', that is good opportunity to seafoaming the intake. attach length of 3/8" OD clear vinyl tubing would fit perfectly to ream out the PCV hose, then vacuum suck the seafoam to the intake slowly.

Yep. Seafoam seems like an appropriate solvent for a gunked-up PCV hose.

Inspect the hose first, though. You don't want to Seafoam your engine if you don't have to. It can do more harm than good if you don't need it.

:7:
-Jeff

 

Thanks for posting this. I'm going to replace my PCV valve tomorrow and this is a big help.
Does anyone have something similar for replacing an A/C line?

Subaru Outback AC Hose - Air Conditioning - OES Genuine - 2002 2004 2003 02 04 03 - PartsGeek.com

 

My advice:

Don't replace an AC line unless you really need to because of a fast leak.

Use refrigerant dye, a blacklight, and yellow glasses to find the leak. How old is your car?

If you have a slow leak that took 5-10 years to lose refrigerant pressure, it might make more sense to just recharge it and leave it alone for another 5-10 years.

If it ain't broke...

:7:
-Jeff

 

Thanks, should be a sticky.

 

quoted for emphasis:29:

 

it seems to have a tapered pipe thread so, when I replaced mine, I used teflon pipe tape.

probably not 'necessary' .

 

Is it safe to assume the PCV valve is in the same place on the gen 3 H6?

 

Today I tried to do this. After got the tank out of the way, removed the clip, I cannot disconnect the tube from the valve. There was no room to pull the tube. Any tricks?

 

Today I tried to do this. After got the tank out of the way, removed the clip, I cannot disconnect the tube from the valve. There was no room to lift the tube. Any tricks?

try to twist the tube to break it free after the clamp is off. You could try to use some pliers too I guess, be gentle. If the hose does get destroyed - it likely was close to needing replacement anyway....

 

When I did this my old one had some type of thread sealant on there. Looked like plumbers pipe dope. I put some 'high tack' gasket sealant since that's all I have available. What do others do? Seems like teflon would work for water, but maybe not with oil?

 

maybe I misunderstood between tube and hose.

I THINK you will need a deep socket to remove the valve - don't recall the size. On 1 or 2 occasions, I've had good luck applying TIGHTENING force and then stuff will loosen.

 

"what did the elephant say to the naked man?"

 

What I mean was the hose.
I cannot disconnect the hose from the old valve. Can I use pliers on rubber hose?

 

You will probably end up ruining the old hose whether you use your hands, pliers, or a special hose puller. Be prepared to replace it.

 

I just did this today and had no problems. I definitely did not ruin the hose.

 

Lol! Great video.
I forgot to mention, I replaced the PCV valve without removing the engine cover. It was a little harder to locate but the rest was fine.

 

My dealer can't get me a PCV valve. They can't find the listing...

I soaked it in carb cleaner for 2 days, came out like new.

 

11810AA100 can be found on ebay for like $12 shipped

 

My local dealer/parts counter guy told me for years that they never change them, and don't even stock them. Finally ordered one from a mail order Subaru part dealer. My mechanic also said that he had never changed one, but he humored me (me mostly trying to pay attention to what cardoc preaches) and changed it for me any way. The old one was still perfectly fine at 275K miles......(I got it back). No detectable effect by changing to a new one.

Oh well. Live and learn.............

 

Stuck Shut-Plugged PCV = Other Engine Problems!



Hi - elsewhere, I have added on few other threads about doing some fun work on my 02 H6 LL Bean (rebuild suspension, timing chain guides, plugs, VCGs, etc.) -> during all of that I found my PCV was shot and likely the cause of VCGs leaking oil + tons of blow by throughout the throttle body area.

It is such a cheap and minor maintenance to replace; but if skipped can lead to other serious issues a mechanic would love to fix without even addressing the root cause. In fact, my brake power booster works better and more smoothly since that old dorked PCV was likely killing the vacuum at idle (explained fairly well in linked article below)...

Here is a good overview of what and how PCV works + list of all the issues that may arise if this little valve is not replaced on regular basis:

AGCO Automotive Repair Service - Baton Rouge, LA - Detailed Auto Topics - What are the Symptoms of a Bad PCV Valve

Hope this helps explain why the PCV shouldn't be ignored. BTW - I am about 2k down the road from the engine work and my engine hasn't been so dry (no oil leaks) since I bought the car at 110k....I love clean engines with no oil leaks....now for that tranny sump pan leak....LOL

 

exc info !!

Thanks for sharing. Will be doing mine soon !!!

 

Mine was stuck shut. Oil sitting on top of it.

There is a vent, so the crankcase can't build up pressure, but there are a bunch of volatiles in what gets removed by the PCV valve that I am sure are not good for seals and gaskets.

 

PCV Hose

I was replacing my LH VCG and broke the PCV hose (and another hose) in the process. Mine was very brittle.
Can anyone help me with finding a replacement hose? I suppose I will replace the valve as well - that was easy to find.

 

I was replacing my LH VCG and broke the PCV hose (and another hose) in the process. Mine was very brittle.
Can anyone help me with finding a replacement hose? I suppose I will replace the valve as well - that was easy to find.

I realize this is probably too late for you but thought I would share it if it can help someone else.

I ran into the same thing. The hose that connects to the PCV Valve was dry and extremely brittle. The part number the dealer gave me for the PCV hose assembly is 11815AB083, for some reason finding this on without the part number on most of the online parts sites appears to be impossible (at least for me). At the dealer I went to it is a special order non stocked part so for people changing the PCV or valve cover gaskets it might be worth checking the hose condition before ordering parts. I was able to get a piece of hose with the same ID from a chain autoparts place for the time being which seems to be working fine but I am still debating replacing the whole hose.

This is on a 2004 LL Bean with the PCV on the driver's side valve cover.

The other hose may be 11815AB062 but I'm not 100% sure on that one (goes from the airbox to a connection in front of the PCV Valve on the valve cover).

 

When I go to pull the wiper fluid container out, is it ok that it is full of fluid? I dont know how the tubing pulls the fluid out of the reservoir, dont want fluid everywhere.

 

Yes. I just left the hoses plugged in and didn't move the tank much. I spilled a little, but not too bad.

 

To make my life easy I ran Mal out of washer fluid and pulled the washer fluid tank and battery. Made it quite easy to reach. Never mind I then had to soak the bugger in PB Blaster and smack my wrench with a hammer to get a factory valve to let go from the engine after 112,000 miles and 16 years...

ahem.

Seemed to fix my jumpy cold idle though and between replacing this and my oil cooler gasket I hope I've solved my disappearing oil concerns.