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My 2019 3.6R has the 490CCA battery and have had no problems with it. Even in cold (-20C) weather. I also have a dashcam that has it's own battery that is charged by the car's system. It charges even when the key is in acc like when I am cleaning the car and listening to the radio. So absolutely no issues with the battery. My previous vehicle was a 2005 V6 Silverado and the factory AC Delco lasted 13 years which is crazy long.
 
Well, it appears to be a battery made by Stryten… and it’s an enhanced flooded battery. Stryten will make them for other vendors too.

The specs are on the battery, and it basically fits where the old one did, so that’s about all you really need to know about the subaru replacement.

The whole thread is about what group size / aftermarket options work well - group size 25 is the OE one you had, a group 35 is about the same size case.

Group 24 is a bit different in size, but fits fine. So would a group 34.

I suspect the newer one with the subaru label is a group size 24 (for the gen5 replacement) but you’d have to measure it to be sure.

If comparing - remember that the subaru replacement offered (pictured earlier) is an enhanced flooded battery - those will be a little higher priced than a standard flooded battery… the thread is full of good recommendations for a regular flooded battery.
This battery SOA821B950 might be closer to a group 34 size wise. Just measured the one i installed. It appears to be 10 3/16” L X 6 1/2 W X 7 13/16 H.
 
My OE battery finally gave up the ghost. 6.5 years, 170,000km. Handing the car over to my daughter and of course the battery dies. Only place open was Canadian Tire. Bought what they had- a 550CCA Motomaster branded Group 25 battery (not sure who makes it). It was the only place open, I swapped it in 15 mins. All good.
 
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This battery SOA821B950 might be closer to a group 34 size wise. Just measured the one i installed. It appears to be 10 3/16” L X 6 1/2 W X 7 13/16 H.
I was waiting for someone to measure it!

now you know what size battery case the subaru provided battery insulating cover would fit. It’s cheaper than some of the foil wrap ones you buy on amazon. IF you want to use a cover.
 
This battery SOA821B950 might be closer to a group 34 size wise. Just measured the one i installed. It appears to be 10 3/16” L X 6 1/2 W X 7 13/16 H.
You mean like the one I installed back in June 2022. I understand with so many pages to this thread, it may be hard to find what works.
 

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Hey,
I just bought a 2015.... needed new battery after I tested and had on 10.32v .....the hatch would not open unless car was running. Shops will tell you that OEM size is 25 with only 490 CCA .... Which is very weak and I live in Thunder Bay Ont where he gets to -30-40 Celsius so I looked into getting a beefier battery that would still fit I found size 34 with 800 CCA only difference in size it's a bit longer and are still half an inch left of space. I picked up battery at Canadian Tire for $206 CDN. Size 34 OE Plus with 4 years warranty.... I looked around and it was the best bag for the buck.

Cheers,
E
 
Hey,
I just bought a 2015.... needed new battery after I tested and had on 10.32v .....the hatch would not open unless car was running. Shops will tell you that OEM size is 25 with only 490 CCA .... Which is very weak and I live in Thunder Bay Ont where he gets to -30-40 Celsius so I looked into getting a beefier battery that would still fit I found size 34 with 800 CCA only difference in size it's a bit longer and are still half an inch left of space. I picked up battery at Canadian Tire for $206 CDN. Si
See the post above your's, notice the Group 34 I installed.
 
Sorry Dude.... didn't read all posts...my bad.
;) Yes this is a long thread. That's why I did that post, so people can find what to do. Now I'll just have to makes sure that post show's up and the last page as this thread moves on...yeah, right.


I wonder if there's away to just have the correct answer in one post and close the thread.
 
;) Yes this is a long thread. That's why I did that post, so people can find what to do. Now I'll just have to makes sure that post show's up and the last page as this thread moves on...yeah, right.


I wonder if there's away to just have the correct answer in one post and close the thread.
The correct answer is Group 24 so now the thread can be closed. :devilish:
 
The correct answer is Group 24 so now the thread can be closed. :devilish:
Well, not really, as we know the Group 34 is better. ;) Isn't bigger always, well, Better...

Edit, found this, after reading Danver's post, ;)
 
Well, not really, as we know the Group 34 is better. ;) Isn't bigger always, well, Better...
That's why the Group 24 is better. It is the lame length as the Group 34 and is taller-the same height as the original Group 26 batter or whatever group it was. The 24 usually has a slightly higher reserve capacity than the 34 but maybe slightly less CCA. Either one is enough CCA for the Outback so the extra reserve capacity is a plus. Also, the extra height of the Group 24 leaves more room for silt to build up at the bottom of the battery before it will short out the plates.

In reality both are solid replacements for the stock size battery. I replaced my original with a Group 24 and 5 years after that I replaced the Group 24 with a Group 34.
 
Sorry Dude.... didn't read all posts...my bad.
There is a monitor device on your negative terminal. It provides charging rates etc to the computer in the car…ECM. Anyways twice I flew out of the country for a week. Came back to dead battery. 2019 Outback 3.6. So….(I had replaced with bigger battery after purchase, but it was not being topped off…as I normally drive 40 miles every day…start the car twice and that’s it) and cut that monitor wire. Now my car charges like it is always thirsty…always starts right up. Even at -20 after sitting for one of my long trips. There is a fella on YouTube that details how to alter that wire. I was skeptical, but it makes sense after you look into it.
 
I chime in here every once in a while too, but nobody seems interested in reading....

A Group 24 battery fits with minor modification. SOA as part of the Battery Settlement is replacing all smaller batteries with Group 24 units.

As described by @Danver a few entries up, the Group 24 provides a higher Amp-Hour rating (total energy capacity) than the runner-up Group 34, and considerably higher than the stock (depending on the year/model Group 25. 26 or 35).

Don't be impressed by the higher peak CCA of the Group 34. Burst energy doesn't buy you all that much once you get past 600 CCA or so with even the largest Subaru engine. Long term endurance is what counts. The Group 24 or 24F (depending on Subaru model) has the highest RESERVE CAPACITY and Amp-Hour rating.

It's the marathon runner you want. Not the 100 yard dash sprinter.
 
There is a monitor device on your negative terminal. It provides charging rates etc to the computer in the car…ECM. Anyways twice I flew out of the country for a week. Came back to dead battery. 2019 Outback 3.6. So….(I had replaced with bigger battery after purchase, but it was not being topped off…as I normally drive 40 miles every day…start the car twice and that’s it) and cut that monitor wire. Now my car charges like it is always thirsty…always starts right up. Even at -20 after sitting for one of my long trips. There is a fella on YouTube that details how to alter that wire. I was skeptical, but it makes sense after you look into it.
Can you be more specific and at least share the title of the video?
 
Can you be more specific and at least share the title of the video?
Just ask google, How too cut voltage monitor on a 2018 Subaru Outback...
 
Or you can unplug it. Cutting it will be annoying when your battery keeps getting overcharged and you want to reconnect it at some point.

It might work for you though. But don't cut the wire, unplug the thing.

The sensor does support some useful functions for the ECM...

Image



there are at least two DTCs that will get set. Neither will turn on the check engine light, so that's good.

U1712 LOST LIN COMMUNICATION WITH BATTERY "1" MONITOR MODULE
P1C00 BATTERY MONITOR MODULE "A" PERFORMANCE
 
It's a well-known issue with this generation, so I'm merging this post into the continuing thread that logs such issues. Offhand, I'd say don't use a compressor without the engine running so the battery can recharge, but it's more involved than that.
 
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