[BillBraski]

After doing some serious digging i have failed to come up with a Step by step DIY for the belt and whatnot, Anybody got a link to that?

Also, im pretty sure my belt popped off due to a malfunctioning Belt Idler, IE it was loose and could wobble, then upon tightening it does not turn. Call me crazy but im just gonna toss out a guess that its supposed to turn. Im guessing its bearings have failed causing it to loosen the bolt holding it in place which then caused the belt to come off its path.

I figure i will DIY and replace everything that needs to be replaced when you do the belt, might as well after all, the belts off so a slight bit of the work is already done for me.

Anyhow, yea the DIY for replacement link would be spiffy if anybody has it handy and also confirmation on the belt idler... i think i saw some part numbers above on what should be replaced

So the Idler and the tensioner are the same part number? Looking on the dayco website for my particular year/model gives me this Dayco 89148


Should i go with this or the previously mentioned 89007

 

[cracklincrotch]

Some links here:

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...-2005-2009/98242-idler-pulley-tensioner-issue-later-model-gen-3-h6-3-0-a-5.html

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums....org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/147729-08-tensioner-pulley-bearings-h6.html

 

[Auntmoo]

We have a 2003 subaru outback sedan... the tensioner needs to be replaced but we either cannot find or reach the lower bolt to get the old one off...any ideas?

 

[1 Lucky Texan]

We have a 2003 subaru outback sedan... the tensioner needs to be replaced but we either cannot find or reach the lower bolt to get the old one off...any ideas?

You have an H6 3.0 engine right?

you may need to remove the upper radiator hose - dunno, I didn't and I haven't read of anyone needing to yet.

the 2 pulleys are 'B' and 'E' in this diagram;

 

[cracklincrotch]

It's definitely doable with the rad hose connected.

I don't remember having difficulty getting a 1/2" drive ratchet on it to break it loose, then use your fingers to thread it out. Just be aware that there is a nut inserted into the back of the tensioner. As you loosen the tensioner pulley bolt that nut will want to fall out the back. Try to pull the bolt out as you loosen it. There is just enough room to get a hand in there to hold that nut from falling out and turn the bolt out. DON"T DROP THE NUT. It will be a pain to find and get back in if you don't realize it's missing.

 

[1 Lucky Texan]

^^^ good advice - there's also a washer at the front, it must go back on in the same direction.

take a look thru the other threads linked.

 

[CNY_Dave]

I dropped the nut a few years ago. Took awhile to realize it was missing, got lucky and dredged it off the block with a skinny telescoping magnet.

Piece of tape across the back of the thing can be a lifesaver.

 

[03LLBean]

My car's serpentine belt broke at 60,000 miles or so. It was replaced by the dealer. The car's now at 134,000 miles. Should I re-replace it as preventative maintenance?

 

[tdelker]

Yes

 

[1 Lucky Texan]

and probably the 2 pulley bearings too.

 

[boxterfan67]

About a year or so ago I paid $80 for a new tensioner assy including pulley and the idler pulley from subarupartsforyou, oem, including shipping. Beware the nylon pulleys...the price is tempting but most reports of them are not good. Tensioner is preset, nothing to worry about there. Also a good time to replace the o ring in the PS pump, since it's around a buck and a half, and get a half dozen crush washers if you don't use a Fumoto. Shipping ends up being free on the little parts, since they just put them into the same box as everything else.

 

[1 Lucky Texan]

About a year or so ago I paid $80 for a new tensioner assy including pulley and the idler pulley from subarupartsforyou, oem, including shipping. Beware the nylon pulleys...the price is tempting but most reports of them are not good. Tensioner is preset, nothing to worry about there. Also a good time to replace the o ring in the PS pump, since it's around a buck and a half, and get a half dozen crush washers if you don't use a Fumoto. Shipping ends up being free on the little parts, since they just put them into the same box as everything else.

great advice

might even consider radiator and heater hoses

 

[03LLBean]

I've been putting together the order. I have a few seeping radiator hoses and a rusted lower radiator support bracket. I'm thinking at 150,000 miles when the car is due for new coolant I'll pull the radiator, replace the support brackets, and replace the hoses, but that's still at least 1.5 years from now at the rate I put miles on it.

Back on topic: the belt, part number 23769AA003, is $87 on Subaru Parts warehouse. Is that a reasonable price for the OEM one? Can I get away with a $15 aftermarket one?

Just to clarify, if it hasn't failed, do I just replace the belt and bearings? Should I check the pulleys for damage and go from there?

 

[tdelker]

No, that's expensive. Get an aftermarket Gates.

 

[1 Lucky Texan]

+1

Gates is good stuff.

 

[boxterfan67]

Also bought the Gates belt w/my order, $20, DON'T GET A DAYCO, EVEN A FREE ONE!

 

[eagleeye]

I've been putting together the order. I have a few seeping radiator hoses and a rusted lower radiator support bracket. I'm thinking at 150,000 miles when the car is due for new coolant I'll pull the radiator, replace the support brackets, and replace the hoses, but that's still at least 1.5 years from now at the rate I put miles on it.

Back on topic: the belt, part number 23769AA003, is $87 on Subaru Parts warehouse. Is that a reasonable price for the OEM one? Can I get away with a $15 aftermarket one?

Just to clarify, if it hasn't failed, do I just replace the belt and bearings? Should I check the pulleys for damage and go from there?

That is the part number for the Tensioner, not the belt.

What I bought a few months ago was Edit prices from subaru parts warehouse, of CT, discount code applied:
the VBelt, 80922100 $33.32 (listed below as 809221080, as the diagram is for a Gen3 car)
the Idler Pulley 23770AA20 $38.52
and the Pulley Bolt. 23771AA00 $1.61

Gen3 2005-2009 H6 EZ30R diagram:

 

[avk]

Also bought the Gates belt w/my order, $20, DON'T GET A DAYCO, EVEN A FREE ONE!

What is wrong with Dayco belts? I have a Sears DieHard belt bought on eBay for something like $6. It is made by Dayco.

 

[03LLBean]

:headslap: part number fail. My only excuse is that Subaru parts warehouse's catalog wasn't working for me and I was using Opposed Forces.
There's something I'm still unclear on.
Are there any pulleys that need to be replaced if this is being done preemptively, or just bearings? Are you guys replacing the pulleys just to avoid the trouble of pressing in bearings?
Thanks!

 

[1 Lucky Texan]

yeah, if you can find decent bearings at a good price, and have the means - you def. can replace the bearings in your current OEM pulleys.

even when I did mine, the cost savings wasn't great - but I got bearings from NAPA OTC. I THINK there's been some reports of decent bearings being available from Amazon. You want the 6203-2rs type of bearing. (Timken 203-FF ?)

best thing, when you have the belt off, pull the pulleys and spin them on your finger, if they feel/sound crunchy or wobble, well, ticking time bomb right there. Mine were crunchy at about 63K miles, maybe they would have lasted another 60K, or maybe only 6K? - I'm glad I swapped the bearings anyway.

I have some pics of swapping bearings in this thread; http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/110-gen-2-2000-2004/16823-h6-tensioner-bearing.html