Follow the links to the homemade ball joint puller thread, ...if you lack the stuff to make it, I would think you can barrow a similar ball joint puller from a parts store for free.



http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/144929-bolt-snapped-front-knuckle-ball-joint-control-arm-bushings-replacement.html

 

I had some trouble getting the ball joint out on my '96 Legacy. I saw one thread that mentioned to bolt the stud back into the control arm, then jack up that wheel i.e. to compress the strut. Then jam a pry bar between the control arm and bearing housing, but so that it does not block the ball joint from coming out. Then let off the jack and let the strut/spring expand. Doing this starts to put a pulling force on the ball joint. Sometimes that's enough to get it to pop out. On mine I had to try a couple different pry bars to get one that 'fit right', and then lay on the pry bar a bit but that did do it, it yanked it right out.

 

there is a gap on the backside of the knuckle - you insert a chisel or very beefy screwdriver in that slot and tap it in there to spread it open. this releases the ball joint. be careful not to over do it, the metal can crack if split too far.

it may have needed replaced, but for future reference never remove the ball joint to replace a CV axle, at least in rust prone vehicles/states. it's an awful method in the rust belt. remove the top strut mount bolt, it's easier and never an issue like the ball joints.

if they're rusted in they can vary from some minor effort to a complete debacle...fortunately it's rare that they're that bad.

 

Thanks for the responses. My local parts store rents a master ball joint removal setup as they call it, so I will pick that up tomorrow and give it a try.

 

That may well be just a huge c-clamp style press.

 

Someone buy this, I got one already. The external thread on the forcing screw is left-handed, a very sturdy design.
Snap on Tools BJR1 Ball Joint Remover for Subaru Original Box | eBay

 

It's a pricey bugger.

 

Yeah, $trap-On now sells it for $135...

 

about 10 years ago one of the local Strap-On guys was let go, as to make extra money he was selling marital aids, and dirty magazines out of his big garage to garage delivery truck. ....I guess their stuff is too expensive.

and what was weird, it was the Strap on guy, not the Mac Tool, or any of the other ones.

 

Well, finally success.

I didn't get to work on this yesterday, but picked up on this morning.

Anyway, I realized that the ball joint stud, and the lug nut studs are the same size, 12 x 1.25.

I have a dedicated set of snow tires for my Subaru and they are a little narrower than my summer tires and require a lug nut with a hole that goes completely through.

I took one of the lug nuts and using vice grips tightened the lug nut down as far as I could on the ball joint stud. Then, I put a 1 and 3/4 inch by 3 and 1/2 inch exhaust pipe coupler up over the ball joint so it was flush against the steering knuckle. I drilled a hole through some angel iron I had in the garage to make a plate to tighten against. I bought a 12 x 1.25 bolt and nut at Lowes and put it through the angle iron and tightened it into the other side of the lug nut on the ball joint thread, then tightened down the nut on the angle iron.

I worked the first bolt for awhile, but it eventually stripped out. However, when I took my setup apart, I noticed another 1/8 inch or so of the ball joint was exposed.

I went back to Lowes and since they didn't have any hardened metric bolts I bought all the gear to tap out half of the lug nut to 1/2 by 13 (fine thread) in grade 8. On a whim, I picked up another 12 x 1.25 metric bolt and nut. I figured I'd give it one more try and see if I could save some money.

I came home and gave the unhardened metric bolt a shot and this time, the ball joint came out. All in all, it was about $7.00 buck in hardware.

I really appreciate the links to the home made puller thread - never would have had the thought without that seed idea. Many thanks.

edit: btw - First I tried a 1 1/2 inside diameter piece of black pipe I had laying around but it was too tight for me. Maybe previous years ball joints were a little more narrower? Not sure, but the lip on the ball joint was just big enough to catch the lip of the pipe, so that is why I went with the exhaust coupler.

 

Very nice. That ball joint looks like it didn't have any rust on it at all.

 

I used a lug nut as part of mine too.

 

Wish I had seen this last week, and maybe last year for the first two.
this setup will definitely be in my tool box.

 

I made one of the homemade ball joint pullers per the threads that eagleeye posted. I ended finding a friend of a friend that could weld a lug nut to the threaded rod (instead of trying to drill and tap a hole inside the threaded rod/bolt). I spent about $25 at Home Depot for the parts and managed to get the weld for free. That tool pulled out the old ball joint in 15 seconds (as quick as I could crank the wrench). That through hole lug nut would have saved me the trouble of tracking down a weld. Sweetness.

 

I think this is how i am going to make my puller since the "pipe" side can be changed out easily. So I went looking and came across these lug nuts that were listed for a 2003-2007 Impreza.

Do you guys think they would work as the connection side for the puller? seems the 4 oddball lugs have a lot of beef around them .

 

Never mind. The STI guys located a 2 inch long M12 x 1.25 lugnut at Advance auto