Try here: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...ums/138-gen-5-2015-present/370898-info-new-gen-5-owners-prospective-buyers.html. Install instructions are free. And then here:http://stis.subaru.com/index.html

 

Try here: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...ums/138-gen-5-2015-present/370898-info-new-gen-5-owners-prospective-buyers.html. Install instructions are free. And then here:Subaru Technical Information System - Welcome

I'm not seeing it. Just other info that i've seen already.

 

Google the part number plus installation manual (e.g. "H001SAL001 installation manual"). First result should be the PDF install manual.

 

The instructions say you need to register the unit using an SSM DST-i computer. I think this means you need to take it to the dealer once you've done the hardware install and pay them for the 10 seconds that takes

 

I installed mine, drove it to the dealer and had them program it. I was charged 1 hour labor instead of 2 even though it took less than 1/2 hour. I followed these instructions: http://subaruonlineparts.com/docs/H001SAL000.pdf

 

where to program

I finally installed mine yesterday. It wasn't too bad, since the instructions were pretty thorough. The hardest part for me was bolting in the relay bracket and the main module bracket just because it was hard to get my hands back there.

I took it to the dealership this morning, and they wanted $115 to hook up their device and program it. I turned it down. That's too much for 1 minute of labor ($6900 per hour!). I could check with other dealerships, or maybe purchase the tool ($360-$410) then resell it on ebay.

I'm curious what other people paid to get programmed, and where.

I was also wondering if there was perhaps a smartphone app that would let an OBDLink LX scanner tool behave like an SSM programmer.

 

My installation story here:
http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...orums/80-electrical-electronics/379689-remote-start-installation-questions.html

Thanks for all the comments everyone, they were a big help!

 

Just picking one of the several OEM remote start threads to say thank you to those that provided information, links, etc. The install was fairly smooth and took me 2.5 hours from gathering tools to cleaning up. I could do it much quicker next time around. The ECU bracket and subsequent remote start mount that goes on the same posts was way harder than I would have guessed and took up too much time for me. I think grinding a slot in all 4 of those mounts so they could be dropped onto already threaded posts would have been way easier. I saw another post about being unsure if they connected everything right before going to go have it programmed. You can test it after your own install, it just won't start. The lights on the fob operate, the car beeps and it will sound like it's about to start, but the immobilizer says no and it doesn't start.

Anyhow, as a point of reference for those that are searching for the same answers I was, here's some numbers:

Remote start kit ~$300 pre-tax from nearby dealer. Seems like a 20% off coupon is a normal thing for accessories

Same dealer would not budge off of $160 to program/initialize the system. I tried two different people and visiting again as well to try and get a different price.

Dealer 35 minutes north quoted me at $60. I had my keys back 22 minutes after it was driven back to the service bay and that included the 15 minutes they wait to make sure the system turns itself off after 15 minutes.

 

DOUBLE POSTING

Hi, I'd like to bump this conversation, as I am about to do my install myself and I'd like to ask for tips/tricks on removing the a-pillar since I definitely do not want to damage the side airbag. Do I go at it from the top portion of the trim and start prying? Also can someone please clairfy if I am removing the bolt to disconnect the battery cable? How is this different than removing the negative terminal from the post?

View attachment 496275

Everything else seems quite explanatory, I guess but any other tips/tricks would help as well.

 

DOUBLE POSTING

Hi, I'd like to bump this conversation, as I am about to do my install myself and I'd like to ask for tips/tricks on removing the a-pillar since I definitely do not want to damage the side airbag. Do I go at it from the top portion of the trim and start prying? Also can someone please clairfy if I am removing the bolt to disconnect the battery cable? How is this different than removing the negative terminal from the post?

View attachment 496275

Everything else seems quite explanatory, I guess but any other tips/tricks would help as well.

one thread is enough, no need to post in more than one

There is a proper procedure for attaching the negative clamp to the battery to prevent damage to the battery sensor. the factory service manuals were updated after problems with that, and there was even a technical service bulletin issued about it.


TSB 07-171-20 Battery Sensor Removal and Installation Precautions

INTRODUCTION:

This Service Information Bulletin is in response to several battery sensor replacements resulting from
improper removal and / or installation practices. Some common mistakes related to battery sensor
removal and / or installation are:

• Removing the sensor from the battery post instead of removing the ground cable from the
sensor
• Not fully cleaning and de-greasing the battery post and the sensor’s ground cable connection
point before reinstalling the sensor
• Not properly supporting and holding the sensor in place with one hand while removing or
installing it or the battery ground cable
• Twisting the sensor when installing onto the battery post instead of pushing it straight down
• Over-torqueing the 10 mm hex nut on the battery post clamp portion of the sensor. This
happens when the sensor is not fully installed onto the battery post. Over-torqueing the nut
can distort and damage the sensor.
• The threaded end of the clamp bolt is crimped. If the 10 mm nut is loosened too far, the
threads of both the nut and bolt can become damaged and the clamp portion distorted.​

 

install is easy, getting someone to program it is hit or miss price wise... I am lucky my 2010 has it from the get go...

 

Wouldn't necessarily call it "easy" on a Gen 5 if that sensor is so prone to damage and other installation problems. Interesting trick, never heard of that one. Guess removing just the ground cable still allows power to some circuits?

 

I think the parallel wire is only a power circuit for the battery sensor itself... don’t think it provides any other electrical grounds (although I haven’t looked it up in the schematics.. this was just from reading about the redesigned battery monitoring system for the Gen5)

 

it's easy enough as it is pretty much pop a few panels and plug, program, and then play. Subaru instructions are pretty clear as to what to do.

 

Yeah, but this is the Gen 5 subforum, does the Gen 4 even have a battery sensor? My point was that, given the fact that Subaru had to issue a TSB, it's apparently relatively easy to damage the Gen 5 battery sensor when disconnecting the ground cable (you're not just pulling the negative cable off the battery, which is the typical first step in Subaru service instructions). The proper procedure, as detailed in the TSB, doesn't appear to be covered at all in the installation instructions attached to post #11.

I just don't think it's wise to trivialize things like this because it can leave readers over-confident, possibly making them more likely to damage something.

 

I don't think anyone answered my question: am I only removing the highlighted bolt to disconnect the battery cable and not removing the entire negative terminal from the battery post?

 

there are some good instructions in the PDF. With pictures and torque specs.