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Rear Subframe Rust

4.9K views 12 replies 8 participants last post by  Myles  
#1 ·
Hi All,

I'm a relatively new owner of a 2002 Outback. I recently had a rear control arm detach at the frame end, and when I took it to the shop, found out that I've got some serious rust in the rear end of the car. This wasn't surprising, since it's an east coast car. What was surprising was the first quote I got to have it fixed.
I need a new crossmember assembly and both suspensions, and the place I took it quoted me $1100 for parts and $1100 for labour. I've already found the parts at roughly half of that price, so I'm wondering if I should trust the labour quote. I called another frame shop and they said that for rusty frame work, 12 hours at $95/hour sounds about right.
Anybody have advice here? The car has less than 200,000km on it, so everything under the hood is in relatively good shape. I'm a complete amateur with minimal equipment, but is this something I could dare try myself? Or is it perhaps something that a backyard mechanic might be able to tackle?
 
#2 ·
I recall seeing that subframe unit priced at $350-400 recently, new from Subaru. Comes with brand new bushings already loaded.

Check out this thread from last year, guy did his own swap. You might glean some information about the labor requirements from it.

Looks like lockmedic did one in 6-7 hours. The only trick is, rusty cars don't just add to time estimates, they are multipliers. No two go the same way.
 
#6 ·
That job can be pretty straightforward but turns into a nightmare if any of the subframe-to-unibody bolts are rusty.

Probably the absolute worst thing that can happen is to have the captive nut those thread into break off inside the unibody (it's happened. . . albeit not to me, yet). That's not easy to fix if it happens.

The bolts on the transverse links to the spindles can be problematic at times too. They sometimes rust to the inner sleeve on their respective bushings. Also no bueno but much easier to fix than (no longer) captive nuts going awry.

I can have one out and on the ground on a non-rusty car in about 2 hours without a lift but with a decent air impact. If it's rusty and nothing breaks, probably double that. If it's rusty and something does break, double it again.
 
#7 ·
hey look, signature changes:

hey look Rasterman got himself a Gen1, (or he is showing a car he once had or rarely types of).


and Locky wants people to search the forums,...no one bothers to do that.
 
#9 ·
As my email is in my sig, I get people who aren't even members here emailing me out of the blue to ask parts interchange questions. Not to buy parts, just to ask stuff like "will a 98 motor fit in my 2002?" or "hey man can I run WRX coilovers on my OB?"

I usually humor them but it started getting annoying. . . plus it's a peer forum. I might spout utter BS in an email and nobody will catch it. At least here I can count on EE to pick up on my double entendre and respond with pics of hot women in the back of BRATs or similar.
 
#11 ·
Ben,
Does this mean I should stop emailing you begging for parts? I thought we had something special. ;) Fine. Just ship the steering wheel and then I won't bug you any more. Unless of course you can get your hands on some really nice CLEAR 2nd gen headlights. :D

BTW, I stripped, used rust converter, plasti-dip type mat black spray paint on my rear suspension and it seems to have halted the rot. My advice is use a respirator. Mine sat on the shelf instead of my face and now I can't remember anything about that week.

P.S. I sent you an email about shipping the steering wheel today.

David
 
#12 ·
Peab you know I love you and live for our back and forth "?", "!" banter. You're the exception.

I don't mind at all when peeps email to buy parts. . . the sig change was to try and clarify the obvious: questions are for forums.

got your email, will send your precious out tomorrow :)

back to the issue at hand. . .dunno anyone to advise you to check out in Vancouver. I'll be visiting there eventually. . . my dad lives over on Vancouver Island (used to live in Squamish. . .I assume he moved so he could have a more interesting airport experience when travelling).

Maybe check out body shops? Their labor rate is usually significantly lower than a mechanic's. . . although they're not always keen on doing simple mechanical repairs like that.

Bonus is if they have to cut out and replace a broken captive nut, they're already set up for sheetmetal work like that.