Rubbing is Racing.

Rubbing is Racing:
I remember a few years back, a Audi A6 AWD was trading paint with a Ford Mondeo (Contour), in a European Sedan series. The guy in the Audi then shoved the Ford off the track into the pebbles with ZERO effort. After that Audi could only run 2wd cars, as the managers banned AWD. (too advantageous, like cheating).

I guess not enough people have given up on nascar yet. Rallying just ain't as popular in the US, although it is something that is approachable by all. (...just need a competition spec roll cage, that you can bet your life on, free time, and a small group of people who like to hammer and weld.).


How A $500 Craigslist Car Beat $400K Rally Racers

Jeremy Renner is supposed to be working with Bill Craswell in a upcoming movie, about running the Baja. That might do something. Although I have yet to meet someone who saw the recent movie Rush.

Maybe they make a movie about the Sleeper VDC, maybe Texan Billy Bob Thorton is free. Or maybe that other guy that Angelina Jolie is poking now.

 

Twin-Turbo Legacy, all JDM with some Audi thrown in

Hey Cardoc, want some additional ideas while you are putting things right.

Check this youtube title out:

Twin-Turbo Subaru Legacy: How JDM Can You Go? -- /TUNED

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=16JOf6TRbDA&feature=c4-overview&list=UU5rBpVgv83gYPZ593XwQUsA

I don't think they are actually in Japan, they say southern CT.
Which is what it looks like.

Maybe the Bald-Buddha at the wheel might be interested in you-all.

 

That's what I'm talking about. Outside the box of the cookie-cutter mods. The car looks good, is functional and fast.

And there won't be another one like it. Similar, maybe.

 

So uh, the headlights didn't match the hood after all...


What're you gonna do with the headlights you've got now, when you get the JDM units?

 

I was planning on putting the projectors in the JDM lights I've ordered so the direction of the light will be right. The JDM lights have a motorized leveler, so, I'm either going to have to get a switch and make a harness to control the lights, or, make **** sure I get the aiming correct the first time.

Cardoc,

Did you think about cutting the original hood for a separate scoop, or some ports? (vs the JDM stuff, and now painting the WHITE hood to match.)
Just a idea to save time. (I know it is late, but not too late).

I would still have to paint the hood after the hole is cut, the steel rolled and a scoop fit in. The JDM hood worked out to be less cost.

Oh, and here's the lights:

 

Cardoc,

Did you think about cutting the original hood for a separate scoop, or some ports? (vs the JDM stuff, and now painting the WHITE hood to match.)
Just a idea to save time. (I know it is late, but not too late).

 

Gotta love cold weather. The car gets up and goes great. It just doesn't start worth a ****. E85 and cold weather don't mix. It wasn't too bad when it was in the 40s and 50s, but this morning with below 30F, it took me 45 minutes to start the car. No, I didn't have any ether.

Its got 93 gas in it now. I was at about 6 gallons left in the tank so I filled it up. Seems to be running okay with the mix. Fuel trims are staying at 14.5 idle and cruising and just to see what it would do, I floored it to 70 from 20 and the trims ran about 12:1. I'll see what happens with a full tank of gas next.

Lights from Japan haven't arrived yet. Slowest delivery out of Japan to date.

 

Gotta love cold weather. The car gets up and goes great. It just doesn't start worth a ****. E85 and cold weather don't mix. It wasn't too bad when it was in the 40s and 50s, but this morning with below 30F, it took me 45 minutes to start the car. No, I didn't have any ether.

Its got 93 gas in it now. I was at about 6 gallons left in the tank so I filled it up. Seems to be running okay with the mix. Fuel trims are staying at 14.5 idle and cruising and just to see what it would do, I floored it to 70 from 20 and the trims ran about 12:1. I'll see what happens with a full tank of gas next.

Lights from Japan haven't arrived yet. Slowest delivery out of Japan to date.

Interesting.You think all those flex fuel cars are having a hard time cold starting in the winter or are they setup diff?

 

That hood is the D-type hood (as in not 1999, but late 2001 or 2002. elady01 mislabeled it somehow), and you already found the correct lights for it. If you are not going to get the bumper, you may want to trim the bits of plastic from the bumper where it meets the hood as the US bits are too tall.

If you do get the bumper, make sure that you get either the JDM bumper beam or one from a Legacy here. That is, unless you get a Lancaster bumper... those may whip straight on. If you get the non-Lancaster bumper, you will also have a fitment issue with the Outback fenders due to the wheel flare on them (and lack thereof on the bumper face). I personally had to swap to Legacy fenders to fix that issue myself. Also make sure that you get a Late 2001 or 2002 bumper, as the 1998-early 2001 bumpers will have the same issues as your current one.

You will need to trim your radiator support for those lights in two places per side to make room for the ballast and the turn signal "projector", but they are pretty easy.

 

rkrenicki,

Funny the 99 JDM Legacy shows to have the exact same hood. Either way, the fit and the weight work great.

Thanks for the HU on the lights and bumper. I saw where the hood hits the bumper. Not too keen on the width difference, either.

All in time.

 

That width difference is the tell tale sign that it is D-type. The hood is overall the "same shape", its only differences is where the grill mounts, and where it meets the bumper and headlights. Oh, and of course being aluminum.

Speaking of grill, if you want to change it in the future, you will be required to use a D-type grill. There are lots of options when it comes to that, but no earlier type or USDM design will fit it.

This thread over on SL-i details some of the differences between them, and shows what cuts need to happen for the lights. http://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=19106

 

Pics are gone from the thread, apparently removed from photobucket. I got the gist.

I was intending on swapping the projectors from the single bulb assemblies over to the JDM assemblies to insure the light beam is proper, so the ballasts will be removed from the lights. I'll have to get the projector aim right the first time or work in a way to make slight adjustments as needed. The leveler I'm not worried about. It was unclear whether the switch will be with the lights or not, most likely not, but a switch can be acquired if necessary. Its not like I have a place to mount the switch anyway, I'm out of dash space. (If I ever sell this car, doubtful, I'll have to put together a manual and wiring diagram )

I have a harness from RFS that will make it easier to power the lights and do away with the right hand connector while powering the lights evenly, and the ballast for the projector lights will be in the same place they are now. The high beam bulb will be deleted since the reflector in the projector works the high beam, in the same way I did the OEM lights last year. Side marker and turn bulbs are gravy, HO amber or LED.

The bumper can wait.

 

Hey Cardoc, I've been MIA since the spring & did'nt have time to read all of the updates - can I get a cliffnotes version?

Any improvement on 1/4 mile times?

I have a couple of suggestions for coldstarting a Subaru on E85 I learned on my friends '98 Outback I can tell you about as well as the start-up trick my ethanol & Methanol burning Drag buddies use.

Got my wagon into the 12's in the 1/4 mile finally - 12.893s @ 106.17MPH, still stock ej222 single port no E/M engine set-up - best MPH was 108.27 - so there is a 12.59s in the wagon as it stands just need to drive it better...

 

Also been tinkering with / tuning my Buddy's slow drag car this year & got a best pass of 9.05s @ 152MPH on the 1/4 mile out of it - never hit the dyno tuned by ear & gut feelings, doesn't even have a wideband on it...

I thought the best it would do is a 9.5s on the 1/4 mile - so on my tuning day (a saturday) I got the car from a 9.7s 1st pass to a 9.2s second pass - not bad, no more passes for us, so I did a final tweek to the car that "should work" & went home.

Buddy was qualified for competition on Sunday & all **** broke loose with passes of 9.08s, 9.06, & 9.05s - I got calls all Day on Sunday with updates / times / suggested mechancal settings etc which is sorta fun - your there even when your 80 miles away...

I want the car to run 8 with its current set-up but buddy did not want to hit the track with it after this event - I'm confident we'll hit the 8's just need to hit the track.

I found a vid of the car running 9.05s @ 152.xx MPH on a Honda guy's youtube upload pretty funny because vid is all hondas with a supra mixed in here & then there is the old school crapbox - he could not believe the car ran the way is did on the first pass he saw & had to record & upload the car on its second pass (the car looks like a crapbox, but runs like ****...).

Here is a snip of his video

Note:
The wheely on the second gear shift
The crowd going ooooo when the time pops up on the board - buddy was not sleeping on the light (bracket racing so he had to give the slower car a headstart - I believe he should have dialed in at 9.00 but that is just me he still won the match as the other driver ws faster than his predicted time)

The car is an old nitrous car that I converted to turbo using his old intake parts + 4 x 1600cc injectors located under the carb controled by their own MAP based ECU, transmission is a STOCK $150 w series toyota transmission mated to a 13b peripheral port rotary engine.
Cheap & effective best nitrous time was 9.97 with a 250hp shot, best turbo time so far is 9.05s - 8's are possible - everything was done in house, funny because when I met my buddy I did not know much about rotary engine, & now I am the guy that has to set all of the internal clearances on the engines when we build an engine.
Once the car is finished mechanically it will go for paint (so that means the car will never get painted as we always try new stuff) - buddy's brother works at a high end body shop that wants to paint the car it just won't happen - I guess its the Puerto Rican version of "The Farm Truck"...

Buddy bought a G-force 5 speed sequential dogbox for the car so clutchless upshifts will be possible & times should improve by about 0.8 - 1.0 seconds seeing as how my buddy shifts like an old lady, just need to get a $1700 triple disk clutch to match the tranny now...

Quick car got painted & did not hit the track this year so its 8.41s @ 168MPH pass is still my personal tuning / turbo set-up record but the car has decent MPH so low 8's to high 7's are possible.

 

Impressive numbers susiemk, nice job.

 

Thanks!

I keep bouncing the idea of a EJ powered RWD Subaru Justy copy of my buddies slow drag car - just do not have time or space for a new build...

 

That wheelie is cool.

I don't know how much you didn't read, so here's a bit: Overview

292 WHP with a WRX MAP and 650cc DeatschWerks injectors
Still running E85

dshultz is working on the RAM to see if there's something in it that's effecting the ROM changes, mainly the MAP values being backward and 2 psi off even though the scaling is spot on and a 2nd ECM did the same thing.
Haven't been to the track in a while. Time is the issue.

Went to HIN Houston and ran in to Rallyguy2K and saw his now 3.0RS (its the blue one): HIN Houston
New carpet and a Whiteline RSB (22mm) Whiteline RSB; Are Your Shoes Clean
Took the mufflers out for a little change No Mufflers
Dyno Day

Got a JDM TT Legacy hood and JDM HID lights (The second pair came yesterday and in one piece even though they were packaged worse than the first pair). I'm gonna retro the lights to projector. The hood is on, the lights are sitting in the box waiting for me to have about 4-6 hours to disassemble one pair and build the other.

Its a DD.

 

What do ya think?

 

More goodies for the "one of a kind"

 

I was looking for a Lancaster 6 bumper and ran into this. I found 2 sets. Still haven't found a bumper.

 

I sent messages to 3 different importers and I'll wait to see what comes of the front BHE bumper. I found listings out of Japan, but no overseas shipping. Bummer.

I'll post up pics of the rear lights when I get them mounted.

Still haven't started on the JDM headlamps. Sometime this week though.

 

Well, my job has really been cutting into my XT time. The same could be said for you(insert-VDC).

 

**** traffic cuts in to my time. I'll be glad when they kill the Zilker Trail of Lights. It backs up traffic all over the place. The usual sidebar streets are all screwed up, MoPac is backed up further than usual, and it seems people are driving around in a daze.

Plus, I didn't feel like messing with the lights today.

 

Cool, nice to see the wagon is running & surprising folks!

 

Just over 15K miles with the SC on and no engine issues. Trans is holding up good since the last rebuild about 8k ago. (He finally got it right after build #6.)

 

Leno has a great presentation.

I've thought about a RWD Subie with an EZ30D. Keep the programming simple. Or stuff one into the bed of a BRAT. Mid mounted engine with a MT. You think it would do a wheel stand??? Figure a SC on it, putting out more than 350 at the crank, and make it AWD to boot. That would be something.

I keep telling myself, one at a time. ONE. Somebody get started on the BRAT, I'll meet you when its done.

 

Turbo Justy

I think a justy has enough rear room to cram a long long block engine in. the ShoGun people lucked out with the sidewinder yamaha.

I like the 78 brat with the chicks in the bed no need for a hot motor. Maybe cardoc should go pause at the Juice bar and pick some up on his way to the car shows. ... Maybe you could partner with Subaru, and get some of theirs from the SEMA show. Just a investment to take home the trophies, especially if the judges are chevy and ford lovers. (and rice haters).

Justy race cars:
I posted this on another thread. People are making things with Justy's here and there. (usually rally cars).

I like what the guy did to fix the rust. The music will get irritating sooner or later. (so turn it off sooner). This guy put a whole lot of work into that little car, but did cobble a turbo into it. No roll cage at the end though.

Oh well enough, on with the show.


Youtube title: Subaru Justy turbo by Audrius Plauska

http://youtu.be/dYRlmLHjkt0

 

Got to the lights. One is done. My dremel battery went low. Break time.

I replaced the left front wheel bearing today also. Got pics during progression and I'll add to or start a thread for bearings.

The first light took me about 3 hours. I spent about an hour figuring out what I wanted to do with it, then the rest of the time doing it. The single bulb assemblies are split and the projectors that were in those are out and one is in the JDM and assembled, the other is waiting on a charging dremel.

Came out good I believe. The side bulb socket pins are the same as the USDM, just a different bulb. I'm leaving the lower H1 out. Maybe later I'll wire it up for a driving light or extra Hi beam. Since I swapped the projector, I still use the car's OEM light harness to connect to the ballast and projector reflector. (see here for a similar step by step Outback Projector Headlight Retrofit

Tomorrow I'll work on fitting it to the car. I have to get 2 yellow bulbs for the lower corners. I doubt the white light flashing with the turn signal will cut it.

 

And it only starts hard when it gets below 50F. When it gets below 40F I turn it over to get the combustion temp up, I watch the EGT, and when it get to 110-150, it'll start.

 

Done. At least with the assembly assembly. Tomorrow I make them fit in the core bracket.

I also have another set of bulb/ballast and harness from RFS. It only utilizes one headlamp circuit to run both lights. That leaves the other circuit unused. Maybe I could use it to operate the H1 bulbs in the base of the assembly. Who needs spot lights on a bully bar? Not me. I think I'll work on that later. It'll come in handy at the beach.

 

I had to do the right light again. It was off too much to get the correct alignment. But, they're on.