Is there a writeup to replace the spark plugs on 5th generation? All I can find is 4th gen and I dont know if there are any differences. Also, what is model of NGK spark plugs to use? Search has not really helped me as all I can find it for older generations.
Spark plug DIY?
nappyjim
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Oh yeah I replaced them as 83k seemed a reasonable amount of wear...
Just finished the driver plugs side and that last plug closest to driver is a royal PITA... bloody knuckles and cursing.
But look at all of the labor cost you saved!
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My dealer quoted $667 to change the plugs on the 3.6 FYI. I'm going to have a local shop do mine bundled with a bunch of other work on the car. Glad you got it done.But look at all of the labor cost you saved!
When I do mine I do them from above and below.
You need to do both... And have tools that you can break down because the frame rails in the way.
'15 OB 2.5i, A/T G015's, grey Konig Runlite's, Rally Innovations Light Bar w/Hella Driving Lights
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Just one meaningless data point but I changed mine on my Gen 5 at 100k. They looked totally normal. The car behavior did not change one bit from prior to replacement to after replacement.
My older Nissan frontier used the same plugs and they had a factory recommended replacement schedule of 120k.
60k is ridiculous on such a quality plug... assuming no engine issues.
Again this is just my single point of data and my experience with my car. It's called preventative maintenance for a reason so no reason not to change at 60k. Except for the fact it's a big pain in the ass. Took me 45 minutes on my Honda accord. Took all day on my Gen 5 outback.
My older Nissan frontier used the same plugs and they had a factory recommended replacement schedule of 120k.
60k is ridiculous on such a quality plug... assuming no engine issues.
Again this is just my single point of data and my experience with my car. It's called preventative maintenance for a reason so no reason not to change at 60k. Except for the fact it's a big pain in the ass. Took me 45 minutes on my Honda accord. Took all day on my Gen 5 outback.
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Look good for 60k miles/6yrs? First spark plug change on a boxer, it was time consuming to say the least.
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Cleaned the throttle body while I was at it. Here is a before and after.
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Not sure about a EZ30D, but the Gen5 2.5 was like a 5 on a 1 to 10 scale for me. Driver's side was a little harder than the passenger side, but as long as you have the right extensions it wasn't hard. Getting a torque wrench in there was a little tough too, but not impossible. The coil pack clips were a pain too. That's my 2 cents.
I think the Gen 5 I'm picking up today had the plugs done 20k miles ago at the dealer so they should have a lot of life left.
I am replacing the plugs for the second time on my EZ30D in stages (waiting for the rest from RockAuto) and so far did each of the "Easy" four in about 5 minutes a piece. I'll measure the frame gap on the back two and compare it to the Gen 5 and then we should have a pretty good answer.
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I'm already comparing the frame gap on my Gen6 to my Gen5, so I know what you're thinking. That should give you a pretty good idea. I picked up an 1" 3/8 extension on Amazon from Tekton. I think this might make the job easier if there is a little less room and a common 1.5" extension won't fit.
TEKTON 3/8 Inch Drive x 1 Inch Mini Extension | SHA11101 - Amazon.com
TEKTON 3/8 Inch Drive x 1 Inch Mini Extension | SHA11101 - Amazon.com
I just ordered two of those and one of these ratchets. I'll give them a test-run on my Gen 2 H6 in a few weeks.
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A low profile rachet would definitely help. I had the impression I would need a long handle or flex head and that wasn't the case. really short extensions and a u-joint helps getting a torque wrench in there too.
I also used a KoKen spark plug socket off of MrSubaru's recommendation. It has a very low profile, but the best part is it grabs the spark plug from the hex with a clip instead of using a traditional rubber boot that could slide out of the socket and make this job a pain in the butt.
3/8 Sq. Dr. Socket 14mm 6 point Length 70mm Spark Plug Socket Clip typ – Ko-ken USA (kokenusa.com)
At $24 it was an investment.
I also used a KoKen spark plug socket off of MrSubaru's recommendation. It has a very low profile, but the best part is it grabs the spark plug from the hex with a clip instead of using a traditional rubber boot that could slide out of the socket and make this job a pain in the butt.
3/8 Sq. Dr. Socket 14mm 6 point Length 70mm Spark Plug Socket Clip typ – Ko-ken USA (kokenusa.com)
At $24 it was an investment.
process is generally the same
remove airbox and battery for max access
remove airbox and battery for max access
Helps a TON doing it from below, but still a PIA
Battery base as well. It is bolted to the frame, but once it is out accessing that bugger closest to the driver is, "easier"
Changed the plugs on my 2018 2.5 today with about 62,000 mi. I was prepared for a fight after reading through this thread but I guess I got lucky because it wasn't so bad IMO. Plus, I was prepared with a few extra tools that were discussed in here. The only special tools I needed that I didn't already own was a14 mm spark plug socket and a ratcheting 14 mm box wrench.
GEARWRENCH 12 Pt. XL Ratcheting Combination Wrench, 14mm - 85014 GEARWRENCH 12 Pt. XL Ratcheting Combination Wrench, 14mm - 85014 - Amazon.com
Lisle 63080 14MM Swivel 12 PT.... Amazon.com: Lisle 63080 14MM Swivel 12 PT. Spark Plug Socket : Automotive
I walked into the garage at 9:30 and finished the job by 11:15. Honestly the hardest part for me was getting those two bolts started on the frame rail for the battery box when putting things back together. I also dropped one of the bolts for the air cleaner box but I didn't bother chasing it because the other task I tackled today was changing the diff fluid. I fished out the lost bolt when I pulled the plastic shroud under the engine for the diff fluid change.
I started with the driver side to get the hardest out of the way. I changed the driver's front first just to see what the process was like, then moved on to the driver's rear, then did the passenger side. I found it easy enough to leave the coils plugged in, I just pulled them out and let them hang. I left out the front coils while doing the rear plugs which gave a little extra clearance.
Also I think having a magnetic plug socket with built-in swivel helped a bunch too. The socket with a very short extension did nearly all of the work. I was also happy to find that my torque wrench would fit with little trouble to get the plugs torqued to spec.
This is a picture of all the tools that I used, The only out of the ordinary things are the ratcheting box wrench, 14 mm plug socket, wobble extensions (which I don't think I really even used), and torque wrench (not pictured) which you should probably have already if you're DIY.
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Pic of the two PITA bolts for the battery box (they are in a vertical line one on top of the other).
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GEARWRENCH 12 Pt. XL Ratcheting Combination Wrench, 14mm - 85014 GEARWRENCH 12 Pt. XL Ratcheting Combination Wrench, 14mm - 85014 - Amazon.com
Lisle 63080 14MM Swivel 12 PT.... Amazon.com: Lisle 63080 14MM Swivel 12 PT. Spark Plug Socket : Automotive
I walked into the garage at 9:30 and finished the job by 11:15. Honestly the hardest part for me was getting those two bolts started on the frame rail for the battery box when putting things back together. I also dropped one of the bolts for the air cleaner box but I didn't bother chasing it because the other task I tackled today was changing the diff fluid. I fished out the lost bolt when I pulled the plastic shroud under the engine for the diff fluid change.
I started with the driver side to get the hardest out of the way. I changed the driver's front first just to see what the process was like, then moved on to the driver's rear, then did the passenger side. I found it easy enough to leave the coils plugged in, I just pulled them out and let them hang. I left out the front coils while doing the rear plugs which gave a little extra clearance.
Also I think having a magnetic plug socket with built-in swivel helped a bunch too. The socket with a very short extension did nearly all of the work. I was also happy to find that my torque wrench would fit with little trouble to get the plugs torqued to spec.
This is a picture of all the tools that I used, The only out of the ordinary things are the ratcheting box wrench, 14 mm plug socket, wobble extensions (which I don't think I really even used), and torque wrench (not pictured) which you should probably have already if you're DIY.
Pic of the two PITA bolts for the battery box (they are in a vertical line one on top of the other).
201 - 220 of 272 Posts
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