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Some may not like this suggestion but Subaru says to use premium fuel in the turbo to prevent overheating when towing. If you're going uphill at a higher RPM for an extended time, to me that's the equivalent of towing.

I'd also monitor oil temperatures - the water temperature gauge doesn't move unless the engine is already overheating. The oil temperature gauge will let you know when the engine is getting warmer than normal. Let's say you notice oil temp of 230, I would try premium fuel and see if it reduces oil temps.

If you were out of warranty I would say to use 0w-30 for sustained high oil temp operation.

Since your car is relatively new, it's possible that the sustained load on the engine is just heating it up more than normal and if you had undercoating or other residue from manufacturing burning off, you might smell something. But a cloud of smoke is a concern. One member had an engine fire possibly due to an oil leak, or burning oil residue. Some suspect it was a fuel leak from the car having the A/C serviced.

 
So I ordered some Supersprings coil sumo springs to eliminate some of the sag in the rear when I am loaded up with gear. Thought I'd give them a shot seeing as I didn't want to go with the Rallitek 1/2" overload springs just yet. Didn't want to just do new springs in the rear seeing as that is not advisable. Anyways, tried installing them and couldn't get the darn things to fit. Tried everything. I also noticed they looked as though when installed they wouldn't clear the plastic housing/shroud of wheel well at the rear of the spring. Pretty sure there are not too many here that have installed them, but if so, any words of wisdom? (Besides going with new springs. :LOL:) I have initiated a return. Maybe they sent the wrong ones. I went through e-trailer and put year/make/model etc. of vehicle and these came up for the rear. Maybe I should have done the spring measurement myself and used the chart I had seen somewhere. Anyways, the simplest installs never seem to go that way. Oh, speaking of and on a side note. I have removed my rear taillight housings several times to install LED turn signals as well as replacing side marker bulb on one side. Simple, simple. Well, the other day I was switching to LED side marker bulbs and while removing one taillight assembly I wasn't paying attention to pull housing straight back to remove. I apparently twisted it and heard something pop and hit the garage floor.:oops: Thought, great there goes a clip. Nope, found the 1"x 1" piece of the lens that is closest to the rear passenger door that I had managed to break off. Well, easy fix, where's the glue? No glue? Off to Lowe's. Glued it back together but not looking so great. Of course, me being me, this will be something that irks me. My local dealer shows $400+ for the rear taillight assembly.:LOL: Found another online that has great reviews for $100. We'll see how that is when it shows up. Anyways, should have just left the bulbs alone.:LOL: I do like the LED rear side markers though. They match the front ones but red. Not sure why they put LED in front marker but not rear. Probably because the front lights are one complete assembly and to have an incandescent bulb burn out would be quite expensive to replace whole assembly. That's it, my story for the day.
 
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The rear sway bar will prevent one side from dropping if the other is compressed.
 
Some may not like this suggestion but Subaru says to use premium fuel in the turbo to prevent overheating when towing. If you're going uphill at a higher RPM for an extended time, to me that's the equivalent of towing.

I'd also monitor oil temperatures - the water temperature gauge doesn't move unless the engine is already overheating. The oil temperature gauge will let you know when the engine is getting warmer than normal. Let's say you notice oil temp of 230, I would try premium fuel and see if it reduces oil temps.

If you were out of warranty I would say to use 0w-30 for sustained high oil temp operation.

Since your car is relatively new, it's possible that the sustained load on the engine is just heating it up more than normal and if you had undercoating or other residue from manufacturing burning off, you might smell something. But a cloud of smoke is a concern. One member had an engine fire possibly due to an oil leak, or burning oil residue. Some suspect it was a fuel leak from the car having the A/C serviced.

The heavy oil smell has happened 3 times, twice while driving in mountains lightly loaded, 87 octane, one of those times i got the cloud of smoke, the third time was tbis past weekend, towing boat about 100 miles each way up to mountains…the inclines were not real severe, or sustained. Still higher RPM and load than normal driving, 93 octane for several tanks for that trip.
Its definitely a leak somewhere, i assume somewhere near exhaust or turbo. Its time for me to crawl under and do the inspection job right…
 
It actually can be done with only one wheel up. I was approaching it wrong. Just soap it up and push bottom on and it then pop top on and then slide it around and keep popping the top part on. Though I did get both wheels off the ground it didn’t make a difference. Well, I now know I can jack up the rear end using Primitive’s rear diff skid plate. Was always concerned about that.👍🏻
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About to take it for a spin and see how it feels unloaded. Here is a pic of before (unloaded)
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next is before (loaded)
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next is with the inserts (unloaded)
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Sits higher now. Maybe it will settle after this quick spin to see how it feels. We’ll see how it looks loaded tomorrow when I head up to Canada for final camping trip of the season.👍🏻
 
Got my Onyx back from the 60k service and warranty work. All is well and I'm good to go.

$1098 out the door.
I don't know whether to give that a thumbs up for the service or an angry emoji for the cost...
🤔
 
Per the owner's manual (p. 273 in my '23 model):

To Operate the Auto-Dimming Feature

Press the “Power” switch to turn the auto dimming feature on/off. The auto-dimming feature is enabled when the switch’s green LED indicator is on. The auto-dimming feature will default to on with each ignition cycle.
 
Per the owner's manual (p. 273 in my '23 model):

To Operate the Auto-Dimming Feature

Press the “Power” switch to turn the auto dimming feature on/off. The auto-dimming feature is enabled when the switch’s green LED indicator is on. The auto-dimming feature will default to on with each ignition cycle.
Yeah that I know. Its always on. But it only works at night and not during the day. I never switch it off.
 
Yeah that I know. Its always on. But it only works at night and not during the day. I never switch it off.
So I did some digging. Turns out there is a light sensor for the auto dimming mirror to detect light/darkness. So I had a strip of double sided velcro and cut a small piece and covered it. It now dims during the day.
 
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