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What did you do with your 6th Gen Outback today?

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3.1M views 20K replies 1.4K participants last post by  Grantt3  
#1 ·
I figure every generation needs this thread.

So I'll begin:

I saw a 2020 Onyx today!
 
#20,123 · (Edited)
Now I want to see what your previous criticisms were. But seriously, how do you like it?
Mostly I was bemoaning the loss of the silky smooth H3.6. Also, having less cubby storage, mandated ASS, loss of physical HVAC buttons, loss of large rear and side window visibility.

Now for gen 6 (Onyx XT): In short, I love it! It rides much better, handles much better, breaks much better, feels more solid, seats are way more comfortable (my gen 5 always felt "rubbery" on the road, bouncy, and handled like a pig and had mushy breaks and short seats). It is FAST with the turbo engine (Honda Passport is 8-15K more and poky). The touch screen is perfectly fine (I know that 2020-2022 of it was problematic), I love that it still has analog gauges. ASS can be easily turned off on home screen, HK audio is standard. The exterior and interior are much sportier looking in Onyx trim. I LOVE that it has a full-size spare tire, and heated steering wheel!

They are dealing on the remaining 2025's, and with the 3-4K price bump for 2026, getting a 2025 is fantastic value proposition, saving a net of around 8K or better. Plus, it's wagon! (with car driving dynamics and SUV ground clearance and utility)
 
#20,126 ·
The Outback went in for its 15k-mile service and a clean bill of health. The Legacy is currently getting a new front lip installed to replace its original one.

Tomorrow, the Outback will be getting a new awning installed to replace the broken one.

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#20,128 ·
I have a question which I don't think deserves making a whole thread for it. Does anyone know where I could find instructions on how to remove the A/C air intake plastic grill on our cars? Prior to purchasing it, it looks like it was stored under a tree and there are a lot of leaves inside it. I want to avoid breaking any tabs on the plastic grill. Do you know if such instructions could be on the owner's manual? It looks like I may need to remove the wiper's arms to get to them.
 
#20,129 ·
Traded in my 2020 Premium for a 2025 Onyx XT. Five years, nine months, 188,000 miles. Great car, the only big disappointment was having to have the engine taken out and resealed because of oil leaks at 145k. The car still ran just fine. Never had any cvt problems, and I’m pretty sure there were no carbon buildup issues or oil dilution either. I actually like the upcoming gen 7, but I like the 6th gen a little more. To get the features I wanted, it made sense to get the 2025 onyx xt.
 
#20,131 ·
Where did you buy it? Found a few places, but not sure if they are legit.
Bought them at Devil Subaru (.com). Found them to have the best price+shipping, but not by much. Their shipping is quite high IMO, so it's always better to check with other discount parts sites. But they have great service. The guy checked the new part number, which superseded the old one, so same part. As expected, I needed longer bolts, but found some laying around that fit perfectly, so didn't have to go buy some. Hope this helps.

Changed the Engine Air filter on my 2020 Outback Touring XT at 60,700 miles with the K&N High-Flow Original Lifetime Engine Air Filter.
That's the worst thing you can do to your car, especially if you live in a dusty climate. Always remember more air= more dirt ; there's no free lunch. Plus the oily air messes up MAF sensors, so not a smart move. And what K&N doesn't tell you is your stock filter provides all the air your engine needs at WOT, so installing a racing filter (which is what those are) is not doing anything good for your engine. You could drive it without an air filter, and it wouldn't have any more power. And even if those filters provided a slight advantage, it'd be at the very top of the rev band, so hardly worth the trade-off of ingesting dirt all the time. I wouldn't put one of those things on my car even for free. The stock ones are super cheap, so just change it regularly (I do it every 10K miles, due to my dusty climate), and you wouldn't lose any performance at all. Those K&Ns are great racing filters, but lousy street filters. I didn't know about those new 'dry' filters, but the stock one is even cheaper than those, so why change? But to each his own, of course. Hope this helps.

A 1984 corvette improved to 0-60 in 6.9 seconds.
The best was actually 7.9:p. But most publications got 8.0, including MW. Crazy that a giant 5.7L V8 only had 200HP back then.
 
#20,132 ·
Bought them at Devil Subaru (.com). Found them to have the best price+shipping, but not by much. Their shipping is quite high IMO, so it's always better to check with other discount parts sites. But they have great service. The guy checked the new part number, which superseded the old one, so same part. As expected, I needed longer bolts, but found some laying around that fit perfectly, so didn't have to go buy some. Hope this helps.


That's the worst thing you can do to your car, especially if you live in a dusty climate. Always remember more air= more dirt ; there's no free lunch. Plus the oily air messes up MAF sensors, so not a smart move. And what K&N doesn't tell you is your stock filter provides all the air your engine needs at WOT, so installing a racing filter (which is what those are) is not doing anything good for your engine. You could drive it without an air filter, and it wouldn't have any more power. And even if those filters provided a slight advantage, it'd be at the very top of the rev band, so hardly worth the trade-off of ingesting dirt all the time. I wouldn't put one of those things on my car even for free. The stock ones are super cheap, so just change it regularly (I do it every 10K miles, due to my dusty climate), and you wouldn't lose any performance at all. Those K&Ns are great racing filters, but lousy street filters. I didn't know about those new 'dry' filters, but the stock one is even cheaper than those, so why change? But to each his own, of course. Hope this helps.


The best was actually 7.9:p. But most publications got 8.0, including MW. Crazy that a giant 5.7L V8 only had 200HP back then.
Don't remind me, I grew up during the malaise era. My 1977 Monte Carlo 5.0 V8 made around 135 hp. My dad's 1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass had a 110hp 3.8 V6. I thought I was getting a lot of hp in my 1990 Pontiac Grand Am with a 160hp Quad4
 
#20,135 ·
SOA gave me a $350. credit a couple months ago, used $200. of it for body side moldings. Not trusting myself to get four adhesive strips right, with only once chance at being correct, I contacted the son of a family friend. The son owns a body shop and he said sure, easy job, it'll be about $50. but wait a few weeks as I'm swamped right now. Today was install day. I think they came out nice and the guy refused any payment from me. There will be some bbq headed his way soon.

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#20,136 ·
Legacy received a bit more love. Both of my Subarus have ScanGuage3s. I wanted to remove the gadget from my windshield, so I found a suitable mount for it from Altered AWD. The Outback also received a mount, but I need to relocate its switch panel to another location.

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#20,137 ·
Legacy received a bit more love. Both of my Subarus have ScanGuage3s. I wanted to remove the gadget from my windshield, so I found a suitable mount for it from Altered AWD. The Outback also received a mount, but I need to relocate its switch panel to another location.

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Thanks for sharing. Just ordered one myself 😎 I’ve yet to buy the Scanguage 3, but it’s on my list. Nice mount!
 
#20,139 ·
I have removed my rear taillight housings several times to install LED turn signals as well as replacing side marker bulb on one side. Simple, simple. Well, the other day I was switching to LED side marker bulbs and while removing one taillight assembly I wasn't paying attention to pull housing straight back to remove. I apparently twisted it and heard something pop and hit the garage floor.:oops: Thought, great there goes a clip. Nope, found the 1"x 1" piece of the lens that is closest to the rear passenger door that I had managed to break off. Well, easy fix, where's the glue? No glue? Off to Lowe's. Glued it back together but not looking so great. Of course, me being me, this will be something that irks me. My local dealer shows $400+ for the rear taillight assembly.:LOL: Found another online that has great reviews for $100. We'll see how that is when it shows up. Anyways, should have just left the bulbs alone.:LOL: I do like the LED rear side markers though. They match the front ones but red. Not sure why they put LED in front marker but not rear. Probably because the front lights are one complete assembly and to have an incandescent bulb burn out would be quite expensive to replace whole assembly. That's it, my story for the day.
So the tail light assembly showed up and is almost what appears to be an exact match. Well on the outside at least. Comes with bulbs installed though I will replace the blinker and side marker with the LED’s I have in the cracked one I am replacing. $100 sure beats $400+ at dealer. Anyways just FYI I will post these. Never know when you may need one.😝
My broken one.
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Amazon one. Though it says left side it was right side. Amazon just popped this one up for some reason.
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#20,140 ·
So the tail light assembly showed up and is almost what appears to be an exact match. Well on the outside at least. Comes with bulbs installed though I will replace the blinker and side marker with the LED’s I have in the cracked one I am replacing. $100 sure beats $400+ at dealer. Anyways just FYI I will post these. Never know when you may need one.😝
My broken one.
View attachment 617736
Amazon one. Though it says left side it was right side. Amazon just popped this one up for some reason.
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Wait, your taillight came with Christmas lights???