I figure every generation needs this thread.
So I'll begin:
I saw a 2020 Onyx today!
So I'll begin:
I saw a 2020 Onyx today!
That's like finding a unicorn😅I figure every generation needs this thread.
So I'll begin:
I saw a 2020 Onyx today!
Mostly I was bemoaning the loss of the silky smooth H3.6. Also, having less cubby storage, mandated ASS, loss of physical HVAC buttons, loss of large rear and side window visibility.Now I want to see what your previous criticisms were. But seriously, how do you like it?
Bought them at Devil Subaru (.com). Found them to have the best price+shipping, but not by much. Their shipping is quite high IMO, so it's always better to check with other discount parts sites. But they have great service. The guy checked the new part number, which superseded the old one, so same part. As expected, I needed longer bolts, but found some laying around that fit perfectly, so didn't have to go buy some. Hope this helps.Where did you buy it? Found a few places, but not sure if they are legit.
That's the worst thing you can do to your car, especially if you live in a dusty climate. Always remember more air= more dirt ; there's no free lunch. Plus the oily air messes up MAF sensors, so not a smart move. And what K&N doesn't tell you is your stock filter provides all the air your engine needs at WOT, so installing a racing filter (which is what those are) is not doing anything good for your engine. You could drive it without an air filter, and it wouldn't have any more power. And even if those filters provided a slight advantage, it'd be at the very top of the rev band, so hardly worth the trade-off of ingesting dirt all the time. I wouldn't put one of those things on my car even for free. The stock ones are super cheap, so just change it regularly (I do it every 10K miles, due to my dusty climate), and you wouldn't lose any performance at all. Those K&Ns are great racing filters, but lousy street filters. I didn't know about those new 'dry' filters, but the stock one is even cheaper than those, so why change? But to each his own, of course. Hope this helps.Changed the Engine Air filter on my 2020 Outback Touring XT at 60,700 miles with the K&N High-Flow Original Lifetime Engine Air Filter.
The best was actually 7.9A 1984 corvette improved to 0-60 in 6.9 seconds.
Don't remind me, I grew up during the malaise era. My 1977 Monte Carlo 5.0 V8 made around 135 hp. My dad's 1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass had a 110hp 3.8 V6. I thought I was getting a lot of hp in my 1990 Pontiac Grand Am with a 160hp Quad4Bought them at Devil Subaru (.com). Found them to have the best price+shipping, but not by much. Their shipping is quite high IMO, so it's always better to check with other discount parts sites. But they have great service. The guy checked the new part number, which superseded the old one, so same part. As expected, I needed longer bolts, but found some laying around that fit perfectly, so didn't have to go buy some. Hope this helps.
That's the worst thing you can do to your car, especially if you live in a dusty climate. Always remember more air= more dirt ; there's no free lunch. Plus the oily air messes up MAF sensors, so not a smart move. And what K&N doesn't tell you is your stock filter provides all the air your engine needs at WOT, so installing a racing filter (which is what those are) is not doing anything good for your engine. You could drive it without an air filter, and it wouldn't have any more power. And even if those filters provided a slight advantage, it'd be at the very top of the rev band, so hardly worth the trade-off of ingesting dirt all the time. I wouldn't put one of those things on my car even for free. The stock ones are super cheap, so just change it regularly (I do it every 10K miles, due to my dusty climate), and you wouldn't lose any performance at all. Those K&Ns are great racing filters, but lousy street filters. I didn't know about those new 'dry' filters, but the stock one is even cheaper than those, so why change? But to each his own, of course. Hope this helps.
The best was actually 7.9. But most publications got 8.0, including MW. Crazy that a giant 5.7L V8 only had 200HP back then.
It was less than I anticipated so that makes me happy. I didn’t particularly want to do it myself so I’m ok with the cost.I don't know whether to give that a thumbs up for the service or an angry emoji for the cost...
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Thanks for sharing. Just ordered one myself 😎 I’ve yet to buy the Scanguage 3, but it’s on my list. Nice mount!Legacy received a bit more love. Both of my Subarus have ScanGuage3s. I wanted to remove the gadget from my windshield, so I found a suitable mount for it from Altered AWD. The Outback also received a mount, but I need to relocate its switch panel to another location.
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You are quite welcome.Thanks for sharing. Just ordered one myself 😎 I’ve yet to buy the Scanguage 3, but it’s on my list. Nice mount!
So the tail light assembly showed up and is almost what appears to be an exact match. Well on the outside at least. Comes with bulbs installed though I will replace the blinker and side marker with the LED’s I have in the cracked one I am replacing. $100 sure beats $400+ at dealer. Anyways just FYI I will post these. Never know when you may need one.😝I have removed my rear taillight housings several times to install LED turn signals as well as replacing side marker bulb on one side. Simple, simple. Well, the other day I was switching to LED side marker bulbs and while removing one taillight assembly I wasn't paying attention to pull housing straight back to remove. I apparently twisted it and heard something pop and hit the garage floor.Thought, great there goes a clip. Nope, found the 1"x 1" piece of the lens that is closest to the rear passenger door that I had managed to break off. Well, easy fix, where's the glue? No glue? Off to Lowe's. Glued it back together but not looking so great. Of course, me being me, this will be something that irks me. My local dealer shows $400+ for the rear taillight assembly.
Found another online that has great reviews for $100. We'll see how that is when it shows up. Anyways, should have just left the bulbs alone.
I do like the LED rear side markers though. They match the front ones but red. Not sure why they put LED in front marker but not rear. Probably because the front lights are one complete assembly and to have an incandescent bulb burn out would be quite expensive to replace whole assembly. That's it, my story for the day.
Wait, your taillight came with Christmas lights???So the tail light assembly showed up and is almost what appears to be an exact match. Well on the outside at least. Comes with bulbs installed though I will replace the blinker and side marker with the LED’s I have in the cracked one I am replacing. $100 sure beats $400+ at dealer. Anyways just FYI I will post these. Never know when you may need one.😝
My broken one.
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Amazon one. Though it says left side it was right side. Amazon just popped this one up for some reason.
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