Any newer car has ALLOT of things lost when the battery is disconnected. I have heard of the thing with the power window, sounds like you have too.
Every car I've owned had the battery replaced, I hate factory batteries! And starting in the early 90s, with the OBD and OBD2 system, they all had issues at first startup, and had a driving process to re-program the OBD2 system. That's why I got the battery backup gizmo after changing the battery in my 09 Outback. It really freaked me out because for the first few tries the car refused to start. I thought I'd really screwed the pooch, until it finally started and all was fine. I'm waiting till this fall to replace the one in my 2015 and trust me, I'll be using the battery backup gizmo this time because there are just too many things that require re-setting. I've looked around but couldn't find any 'complete" list of things to do after replacing a battery.
Other than you having to re-set pass codes, station pre-sets, seat memory, etc... It's all done automatically by the systems while driving.

P.S. Welcome to the Subaru family!

 

Battery


In my case- I DISAGREE -- my experience with factory batteries has been great. Our 08 CRV battery lasted 5 years, 02 F150-- 7 years on the first, then bought identical battery from dealer --it went for 5 years -- the 89 Toyota has the same battery (Toyota branded) in it, that the previous owner had the dealer put in it when I bought it 5 years ago.
I just wish that manufacturers would put as good of tires on as they do batteries!

 

I just use a set of jumper cables and another battery to maintain memory when changing battery.

 

I bought a new battery and I need to reset the car. Will you help me out?

 

@markmizzou
Just a personal preference for me. I didn't mean to replace the battery the second you get a car. What I was referring to was the process of replacing the battery.
I'm just twice bit thrice shy on factory batteries. It happened on my new 1990 GT Escort, and my new 2009 Outback. Both times the factory battery left me stranded. Thanks to warranty, I had roadside assistance and yes, I had the batteries replaced at no cost. But I couldn't get the feeling of being let down by a brand new battery, so I had them replaced with a Die Hard and Optima battery. And because of my experiences, yes, I'm having this one replaced this fall with an Optima battery, before it might let me down when it gets 10deg outside. Have you ever had to work on a car in the winter? Not pretty, LOL! This reminds me of when I was younger. I had a 1968 Chevy pickup with a 327 engine. I had to replace the mechanical fuel pump one winter, it was almost 0deg outside that day. If you've ever had gasoline on your hands in that kind of cold weather you know what I mean...
Anyway, the pump was so cheap I just replaced it every year during the fall, before it got cold. Never had to do that again, LOL! It was really nice when I saved up the money and got an electric fuel pump, no more worries...
That's why I replace batteries in new cars. No, more, worries...
Anyway, it's just my personal choice, no biggie.

P.S. The Optima battery in my 09 lasted over 7 years with no problems and no messy constant clean up, due to its sealed design. And I'm sure the new owner will have a very good experience with it as well.

 

Or maybe one of these to keep the juice going...

 

Appreciate the input, still unsure what needs to be reset

Thanks for all the input. I intend to be proactive when changing out the battery or disconnecting it for doing maintenance requiring it (9V battery "gizmo" or connecting other devices).

However, my original question remains; what needs to be reset??

What does Subaru service do? Do they keep it on life support temporarily? What if it goes off life support or they really need to eliminate all power sources? Do they return it to the customer with a bunch of systems not working properly or do they have a list if things they can reset, and inform the customer of the other things that need to be reset per individual tastes (radio station presets for example)?

John

 

... do they have a list if things they can reset ...

The battery replacement section of the 2015 Legacy/Outback FSM does not include any guidance for saving/restoring settings or re-initializing vehicle systems.


Edit: Thanks to sgtmaj27 (see below), relevant information can be found in the 2015 Legacy/Outback FSM, page RC-3.

 

Ok I'll bite, what is this 9V battery "gizmo" everyone is talking about?

 

Memory keeper, memory saver

They are on Amazon for under $10 and called memory keeper or memory saver. They basically look like a 9V battery holder attached to a plug that goes into the vehicles 12V DC outlet.

 

They are on Amazon for under $10 and called memory keeper or memory saver. They basically look like a 9V battery holder attached to a plug that goes into the vehicles 12V DC outlet.

The only thing that I had to re-set (on my 05 OB) was to go through the 20 clicks routine to disconnect the seat belt chime again because, after battery is disconnected, it self defaults the seat belt chime to the OEM factory settings, when battery is re-connected; i.e. it chimes again.

In the old days, you had to reset the radio but since nobody steals radios any more (air bags are more lucrative) nothing has to be done to have the radio working. At least, that is the case on my 05 OB LLBeaner.

 

Does this help?

 

Great list, thanks! Where do we get the referenced procedures?

The list is a great start. I never thought about the steering system or active shutters requiring a reset.

The list references other resources for four procedures. Do you know if these procedures are in the owners manuals or only in the service manuals or dealer only type documents?

 

Do you know if these procedures are in the owners manuals or only in the service manuals or dealer only type documents?

A. Power Windows...Procedure is in Owber's Manual page 2-35
B. Keyless Access Pushbutton..KPS-140 refers to the procedures required to register a new Control Module after replacing one and reconnecting the battery.
C. Power Rear Gate..From the service manual. I had to do this cause the gate was up. If left closed no procedure necessary.
1. INITIALIZATION NOTE:
Perform the initialization of the power rear gate auto closer, when the battery ground cable is connected with
the rear gate open. Initialization is not required when the battery ground cable is connected with the rear gate
closed.
1) Turn the ignition to OFF.
2) Close the rear gate slowly, and release the hold of rear gate after a clicking sound is heard when the latch
is engaged halfway.
3) The auto closer function then operates and pulls the rear gate to engage fully.
4) Operate the power rear gate switches after the rear gate is closed fully to check that automatic open/close
of the power rear gate operates normally.

D. Air Grille Shutters..This procedure uses the Subaru Select Monitor (Dealer Diagnostic machine) to check the operation only after replacing the unit and reconnecting the battery.

I would say that you really only have to be concerned about the Windows and the tailgate, if powered. Both relativelty an easy procedure...especially if the gate is left closed:wink2:while disconnecting the battery.
Unfortunately, I fell prey to the dreaded Cargo area light being left on and a completely dead battery this AM. Not enough volts to activate the charger. Jumped the car with my lawn tractor battery. Ran it for 5 min. Then connected the charger. Also, removed the dam bulb from the cargo area...too easy to hit that switch to on when sliding something out of the back. Only had to initialize the windows and the rear gate. Clock, radio settings, power seat memory, were all saved. I'll check to see if the light/warning customization was retained along with the eyesight alarm customization was retained tomorrow. I want to charge the battery slowly overnight before I take it out. I've had it on my "big" charger all day at 10 then 2 amps. It is fully charged now. Ran a load test which was OK and will keep it on my Battery Minder through the night. Think that will fix my screw up!

 

Thanks again; someday this info will be very helpful

Thank you so much for the additional detail.

I will copy and print out for future reference.

 

@lloyd123
This is the one to use on newer cars that turn off the cig lighter when the ignition is turned off.
Amazon.com: Lisle 40400 Memory Saver with Light: Automotive

 

With jumper cables and a spare battery, you can swap your battery and not have to mess with all this stuff.

Battery longevity is mostly tied to temperature and the amount of full discharge/recharge cycles you subject it to. I'm in coastal New England where it doesn't ever get very hot. I can usually get 7 or 8 years out of a battery unless I have a problem like a dying alternator where I fully discharge the battery a bunch of times. Somebody in a blazing hot climate like Phoenix who parks outdoors in the sun every day is lucky to get a couple of years out of a battery.

 

Yep - blazing heat kills batteries faster than the deep freeze environment...

 

I never have an OEM battery make it past ~3 years in NC.

I also have *never* needed a PDF length checklist in any previous car when changing a battery. Most I've ever had to do was enter s 4-digit radio code. Engineering has done a poor job when so much process is needed after a simple battery replacement (or even just disconnecting to do some mods)

 

I suspect most people who spend more on their summer A/C bill than their winter heating bill have similar battery life.

I've never had to do anything but reprogram the clock but I haven't had much in the way of fancy electronics.

I sure hope I remember this thread if I need to change batteries. I'm a bit concerned about the small battery in subzero Vermont winter. I have a battery blanket from my last cars but I'd prefer to avoid installing it. Between battery charger, battery tender, and spare batteries I have for the boat, I should have no problem keeping 12v on the car electrical system while I swap batteries.

...assuming I remember.

 

Not really a reset but I lost all of my stored maintenance records and reminders as well as the dealer info that was programmed into the infotainment system.

 

We have a Subaru Forester 2017. The battery died and had to be replaced. There was no need to reset the radio station settings. I figured out the reset of date and time pretty quickly (like immediately). Two days later, I learned about the window problem. Found the fix pretty quickly in the window section, not the battery section of the manual.

I agree, there should be a definitive list of what might need resetting, preferably under battery, not scattered throughout the manual. Has anyone found such a list? Are there any other "gotchas" beside the windows and the date/time?

 

...I agree, there should be a definitive list of what might need resetting, preferably under battery, not scattered throughout the manual. Has anyone found such a list? Are there any other "gotchas" beside the windows and the date/time?

There is a detailed list provided in the FSM for the 2015 Outback (may be somewhat different for your Forester). See this post:
http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...2015-2019/262786-what-must-reset-after-battery-disconnection-2.html#post2926242

Apparently, besides presets, only the windows typically require attention. Personally, I also like to let it do the throttle and idle adjustments. After reconnecting the battery, you put the ignition in the ON position without starting the engine. Leave it there for at least 10 seconds for the throttle to complete adjustment. Next, start the engine and make sure no additional loads are present (lights, AC, etc). Without touching the gas pedal, let the engine idle until fully warmed up (radiator fan activates at least twice). Done.

 

This is one reason Subaru (and all other makers) should offer a base model with a 1990’s electrical system. Just give me a USB/power port for my cell phone. There is a considerable market for such cars.

 

You want a '90s electrical system, but with newer stuff added?

 

Take a look at this: Battery relearn on Forester forum. We had an 08 Forester for 10 years and replaced the battery twice. This procedure worked just fine both times.

 

I am using an inexpensive Walmart jump starter battery backup for my car pump. If I have to replace my Forester 2020 battery then, after releasing the screws, I will simply connect the active jump starter to the terminals of the battery wire, as if I would have to jump start. Then remove these terminals from the car battery, replace the battery and reconnect the terminals to the new battery. Then disconnect the jump starter. In this way, the voltage supply to the car will not be interrupted thus no reset is needed. Be careful not to shortcut the terminals under voltage (you may put them in plastic sandwich bags while replacing the battery).

 

The only thing I needed to reset on my wife's '17 Forester was the power windows. I think some make too big a deal out of something as mundane as a battery swap.

 

Just resurrecting this thread to say THANKS! I replaced the battery on my '06 Outback recently, and after connecting the battery and driving for a while, I got the PO506 Check Engine Light code. Following all the steps here greatly helped!

 

After going through several threads it became apparent a battery disconnection will require possible reset of several features. I saw where window operation may be affected. I assume PIN number will be lost. There are probably other things.

I am aware of devices that allow you to maintain computer codes, but over the life of the vehicle I am sure there will be times the battery will either be disconnected or go completely dead without a back-up power device in place.

Is there a list or summary of items that need to be checked and potentially reset (and how to do it) after loss of battery power? Hopefully this information is in one place rather than having to jump around the owners manual.

The battery in my 2018 Outback Limited with 2.5 L engine was not able to start it after a week in sub-zero weather. It was too weak to even lock the doors. AAA Jump Started it. Everything seemed fine except that the units used in the Tire Pressure Sensor Display changed from psi to kPa. The next day I took it to the dealer and the service advisor reset the units to psi while sitting in the driver's seat. He then had the battery tested by a technician. They decided to replace the battery with a heavier duty Subaru battery.

Things seemed fine when I drove it away from the dealer but once tire pressure display commenced I saw that the units had been changed back to kPa. They had forgotten to reset the units.

I've studied the manual and it addresses the issue. I've tried to follow its process to change the units back to psi but was unable to cause the change. I think that there is some detail missing from the manual. I'll probably go back to the dealer to ask a service advisor to rest the display. This needs to be added to the list of resets after battery change.

ASIDE: Maybe I should just stick with the kPa units and learn to work with them since they provide three digits of precision, not just two, in the pressure range of interest. I can use kPa units with my Milton Industries Part#: 572D
Pro Digital Tire Inflator/Pressure Pistol Grip Gauge - KWIK-CHANGE® Safety Chuck, 36" Hose

 

The battery in my 2018 Outback Limited with 2.5 L engine was not able to start it after a week in sub-zero weather. It was too weak to even lock the doors. AAA Jump Started it. Everything seemed fine except that the units used in the Tire Pressure Sensor Display changed from psi to kPa. The next day I took it to the dealer and the service advisor reset the units to psi while sitting in the driver's seat. He then had the battery tested by a technician. They decided to replace the battery with a heavier duty Subaru battery.

Things seemed fine when I drove it away from the dealer but once tire pressure display commenced I saw that the units had been changed back to kPa. They had forgotten to reset the units.

I've studied the manual and it addresses the issue. I've tried to follow its process to change the units back to psi but was unable to cause the change. I think that there is some detail missing from the manual. I'll probably go back to the dealer to ask a service advisor to rest the display. This needs to be added to the list of resets after battery change.

Per advice from "Walker" on a thread which I started on the Pressure Units issue, I looked for and found the "menu screen." From that screen I first changed the Clock Display from 12 hour to 24 hour, then changed the Tire Pressure Units from kPa to psi. It took some trial and error.

 

First of all, everything’s shut off in the car with the ignition off. Yes, there is a minimal draw on the battery with everything off for the security system & maintaining settings but it’s minimal, in the milliamps, right?
With that said, I would think a 1-1/2 amp battery tender would be all that is needed to retain all the settings in the car. Plain & simple.
I don’t get it! Why would you want to make extra work for yourself by having to reprogram everything?? The dealer service dept. on the other hand, $$!

 

First of all, everything’s shut off in the car with the ignition off. Yes, there is a minimal draw on the battery with everything off for the security system & maintaining settings but it’s minimal, in the milliamps, right?
With that said, I would think a 1-1/2 amp battery tender would be all that is needed to retain all the settings in the car. Plain & simple.
I don’t get it! Why would you want to make extra work for yourself by having to reprogram everything?? The dealer service dept. on the other hand, $$!

Pressure units aside (for later Gen 5s), you really barely have to do anything, in fact most of what's listed in the FSM (post #12) isn't typically necessary. I've had the battery in my 2015 disconnected numerous times and the only thing I've ever had to do was reset the windows. Besides that, the trip odometers go back to zero, nothing else is lost. IOW, no reason to use a battery tender (which is not advisable unless it was designed with a proper "supply" mode).

 

Thank-you very much for that info! Will dig deeper on mine.

 

Yeah, a 1.5A rating is pretty minimal, it could struggle with the load from the car with just a door open. I know it was over 1A when I checked it, although I'm pretty sure that was after I had replaced all the interior bulbs with LEDs. The original incandescent bulbs drew way more power.