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Could you explain this proper supply mode aspect?
As AvidHiker explained, low ripple (i.e. clean 12 volt power) is the basic requirement. In addition, any power supply needs adequate current capacity for the peak demand from the car, as well as reasonably tight voltage regulation. If you have access to one, any decent 12-14 volt "bench" or "laboratory" power supply should work as well. I also highly recommend the CTEK 7002 smart charger that AvidHiker mentioned.
 
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The battery in my 2018 Outback Limited with 2.5 L engine was not able to start it after a week in sub-zero weather. It was too weak to even lock the doors. AAA Jump Started it. Everything seemed fine except that the units used in the Tire Pressure Sensor Display changed from psi to kPa. The next day I took it to the dealer and the service advisor reset the units to psi while sitting in the driver's seat. He then had the battery tested by a technician. They decided to replace the battery with a heavier duty Subaru battery.

Things seemed fine when I drove it away from the dealer but once tire pressure display commenced I saw that the units had been changed back to kPa. They had forgotten to reset the units.

I've studied the manual and it addresses the issue. I've tried to follow its process to change the units back to psi but was unable to cause the change. I think that there is some detail missing from the manual. I'll probably go back to the dealer to ask a service advisor to rest the display. This needs to be added to the list of resets after battery change.
Per advice from "Walker" on a thread which I started on the Pressure Units issue, I looked for and found the "menu screen." From that screen I first changed the Clock Display from 12 hour to 24 hour, then changed the Tire Pressure Units from kPa to psi. It took some trial and error.
 
As AvidHiker explained, low ripple (i.e. clean 12 volt power) is the basic requirement. In addition, any power supply needs adequate current capacity for the peak demand from the car, as well as reasonably tight voltage regulation. If you have access to one, any decent 12-14 volt "bench" or "laboratory" power supply should work as well. I also highly recommend the CTEK 7002 smart charger that AvidHiker mentioned.
Good info again, thank-you!
 
Yeah, a 1.5A rating is pretty minimal, it could struggle with the load from the car with just a door open. I know it was over 1A when I checked it, although I'm pretty sure that was after I had replaced all the interior bulbs with LEDs. The original incandescent bulbs drew way more power.
 
I just replaced my battery in my 2015 Outback. Tailgate beeped 3 time but wouldn’t open. Read many post on resetting the tailgate. Someone posted (I cannot find that post) to disconnect battery, wait 10 seconds, reconnect battery. Turn ignition switch to assessories (do not turn engine on) turn off after all alarm bells finish, do this again but do not turn on engine. Turn off. Now turn on and the electical system for tailgate should be reset. It worked and I then cancelled my appt at dealership and requested to belong to this site:)
A thousand thank youz’!!!
 
The window reset procedure is in your owner's manual. The cluster display defaults to a blank screen. Using the steering wheel controls, all you have to do is cycle back to the speedometer or whatever you want displayed there (also covered in your owner's manual).
 
When I changed my battery the other day, all I had to do was reset the power windows, change the TPMS display units back to PSI, and re-silence the seat belt chime. The trip odometer was no big deal, as I refueled the car immediately after swapping batteries and I always reset the trip odo anyway when filling the tank.

Oddly enough, I didn't lose the audio system presets - maybe the HK system has a big ol' capacitor or secondary battery that retains that info? - and the digital clocks reset themselves, ostensibly from the GPS signal received by the nav system ( I sure did not expect that!).

If there was anything else affected by being powered down for a minute and a half at the most, it hasn't made itself apparent to me yet.

EDIT: I also didn't lose the two seat-adjustment presets. Go there, figure that.
 
Apparently Subaru hasn't discovered nonvolatile memory yet.
I'm usually on Subaru's side in the let's-keep-costs-down balancing act, but sometimes it's hard not to say, "WTH, Really?! This isn't one of those times for me, but I imagine some feel that way in this situation.

I don't know what non-volatile memory costs for this application, but if the car had it, it would certainly add to the user / owner experience rather than detract from it.

(If it added $500 to the cost of the car, I'd say it's not worth it, but if it's $25, I don't think anybody would would even notice the "higher" price. Of course, the question Subaru's thinking is, would anyone notice the "better" experience?)
 
I'm not an auto engineer, but I can imagine there may be valid (non-obvious) reasons for certain systems to reset themselves after a power loss. Not sure what the big deal is - the windows take 10 seconds to correct. The biggest hassle would be the head unit, but that does in fact keep everything in NVM, so nothing lost there.
 
Sigh...
Remember your first car?
...And when you replaced the battery you probably had to reset everything?
...And you didn't complain about it because you understood it's a friggin' battery-powered system and when you unhook the battery there was no power there to retain settings?

[*eyeroll*]
 
Check out the sticky above, there are info about the windows and the rear hatch.

Or ask google, "how to reset after battery change in a 2018__
 
I bought a new battery and I need to reset the car. Will you help me out?
You're replying to a very old comment from someone who hasn't been seen here since 2016. The only mandatory thing that you're likely to encounter is the power window reset, which is covered in your owner's manual (or see the first page of this thread for a more complete list). I also like to do the (typically optional) throttle and idle relearn. I've already posted it in this thread but here's a slightly more detailed version:
  • Pull the negative cable and completely discharge the electrical system (I think shorting the battery cables gets the job done pretty much instantly)
  • Reconnect the negative cable and wait at least 10 seconds.
  • Foot OFF brake, push start button twice (or keyed ignition > ON) and wait at least 10 seconds. Turn off all electrical loads (lights, HVAC, etc).
  • Foot ON brake, push start button (engine > ON) and make sure no electrical loads are present.
  • Without touching any pedals, run the engine for at least 10 minutes (ideally until fully warmed up).
  • Turn the engine off and wait at least 10 seconds before starting again
 
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