[04MSM]

See photo attached in post #2 above. The interior trim on the right side of the cargo area has to be removed, as well as trim above the hatch opening so that the headliner can be dropped.

Do you know where the end of it is? I guess I could splice it up in the headliner area, but I was hoping to avoid splices.

 

[plain OM]

The harness enters the car body at the flexible boot, and twists off to the right, to follow a path down the D pillar. The harness ends in the cargo area of the car, on the right side, below the D pillar. The 2005 has three connectors at that end. The location of the connectors is shown in the photo in post # 2 above, circled, although that's a 2007, with only two connectors.

Here's the 2005 harness routing:

Incidentally, in light of the fact that it appears the 2005 has three connectors at the D pillar, at least according to this diagram, but the later years show only two, that might be related to the different part numbers. Still seems to be a rather large difference in price, though. Be interested in what you find at the dealer.

 

[04MSM]

That's a big cost difference. I checked the Subaru of America Parts - Genuine Subaru Parts from your Local Retailer website for the rear gate cord for years from 2005 to 2007. Interesting that only 2005 has those two widely different priced harnesses; 81812AG03A is the higher priced one, 81812AG03B is the lower. 2006 uses the same p/n ending in B, and 2007-9 uses the same number but ending in "C" at around the same lower price as the "B". Strange.

If your dealer has the three different harnesses in stock, perhaps you could look at them to see if there's any distinction. I wonder if perhaps the earlier 05s used better wire; a type that was less prone to breakage, and thus the much higher price. It's probably not the case, but I don't see any change in the actual wiring circuitry during the 2005 production year (there's nothing in the wiring diagrams), and there's not much else that would dictate a large difference in price.

Even if the "A" type is much more expensive, some might be interested in using it as a replacement, even in later model years, if it will avoid breaks in the future, especially as the cost to do the work (dealer labor or own work) is the same.

OK the cost difference is based on whether the car is a Sedan or Wagon. Wagon has the expensive harness. Makes sense because there are a lot more things connected to it. I hope the new harness is better than the original. I suppose that if I get 100k out of it, it will not be a big problem.

It should get here Wednesday or Thursday. I'll do a quick write up on the complete replacement.

 

[plain OM]

Yes, I totally missed that possibility. Good to know. Thanks for the update.

If you have a chance, take photos and put together a step-by-step thread in the DIY sub-forum here Do-It-Yourself Illustrated Guides - Subaru Outback - Subaru Outback Forums.

That way the your report will be easier for others, who are facing the same challenge, to find. There's various posts with bits of information (including photos) about repairs to the harness, but as far as I can recall, there's no single thread that details full harness replacement. And no doubt there will be more as the cars age.

Thanks

 

[04MSM]

Yes, I totally missed that possibility. Good to know. Thanks for the update.

If you have a chance, take photos and put together a step-by-step thread in the DIY sub-forum here Do-It-Yourself Illustrated Guides - Subaru Outback - Subaru Outback Forums.

That way the your report will be easier for others, who are facing the same challenge, to find. There's various posts with bits of information (including photos) about repairs to the harness, but as far as I can recall, there's no single thread that details full harness replacement. And no doubt there will be more as the cars age.

Thanks

I did this job a couple of weeks ago. It was easier to replace the entire harness than to splice some of the wires (which I had done in the past) The harness is expensive at $204, but it saved me some time, and it was a clean job when I was done.

All of the body side connectors are under the right side rear cover in the hatch area. You don't have to completely remove the cover, since they are all just below the pillar at the rear end of the car. There are three plugs located in a group.

Replacing the tail gate side is pretty easy since you have all the covers off already. Taking a picture of the routing a head of time may help figure out how to route the various parts, but it is pretty obvious. The biggest nuisance it figuring out how to release the various connector latches.

I don't expect that the new harness is really better than the original, but if it lasts as long as the first one, the car will be pretty well used up before it fails again.

 

[bcc812]

I have to tackle this on our 08 wagon. Confused tho as part #81812AG03C referenced earlier is 88.80 and previous post mentions harness cost at 204? Our dealer said the part number is correct for our car and labor would be 325 for them to do it but would like to attempt myself. Can someone confirm if I have the right harness number for my car please? Thanks

 

[48246]

Just make sure you diagnose that you indeed need a wiring harness... my rear window defogger stopped working, I took it several times to the dealer. They advised to have the harness changed.
I popped out the rear window panels only to find that one of the terminals to the defogger grid fell off/rusted out. I've soldered it back in and my defogger works like new...

Like with doctors, always get a second opinion (or diagnose yourself on websites like Mayo Clinic)....this will always save you money!

 

[bcc812]

Just make sure you diagnose that you indeed need a wiring harness... my rear window defogger stopped working, I took it several times to the dealer. They advised to have the harness changed.
I popped out the rear window panels only to find that one of the terminals to the defogger grid fell off/rusted out. I've soldered it back in and my defogger works like new...

Like with doctors, always get a second opinion (or diagnose yourself on websites like Mayo Clinic)....this will always save you money!

Yea, I have confirmed it with moving the rubber boot at hatch. Multiple things are not working, reverse lites, wiper, ect...has worked, then stopped and works if ya wiggle harness. I just need to make sure I have the right harness ordered ect.. confused as stated above w numbers and price differences. Thanks for input tho.

 

[nipper]

My turn !



I discovered this when the tail gate wouldnt lock anymore. I am debaiting buying a harness or patching it. I have to see what supplies I have and am dealing with a couple of health issues.

 

[Mich Outback]

I did my 2008 Outback wagon last weekend. Used the factory harness to replace from the rear body connectors to the tail gate wiring. Purchased the harness from the local dealer and it was delivered to my home.

I no longer have issues with my wiper not working or parking, my rear top brake light works again, the hatch now unlocks again, and the rear cargo light works too. It is amazing how many items were impacted by this harness. I had patched several circuits before, and decided to throw in the towel and get the new harness.

The replacement required removal of all the interior panels on the tail gate, and about 4 panels on the rear cargo area on the body side as well as lowering the rear of the head liner (but not removing it) from it's rear fasteners. It took the day for me to complete. Not hard work, just slow going as I didn't want to break any panels or fasteners.

The new harness includes body fasteners, so feel free to chop up the old ones while removing.

 

[plain OM]

Thanks for the report. This thread, with the links, is now probably the thread to refer to for rear gate and related electrical problems. Bookmarked.

 

[carlo808]

Not sure what else to do!

Fellow Outbackers - I have a 2008 2.5 Limited - Trunk lock, rear wiper, reverse lights, and rear defogger not working.

I pulled the cargo panels and inspected all the harness wiring. I pulled up the boot and saw no cracking on the wires' insulation. I checked all the fuses in both the engine and driver's compartment. I don't see any breaks in the line, no corrosion at the connections, but there must be something happening somewhere.

I am not sure what I did after I checked all the connections and grounds but the trunk locked worked three times then stopped. :grin2: :surprise: :|

Can I safely assume there is a break in the wire under all the electrical tape wrapped around the harness?

I have not disconnected anything to pull out the entire harness to inspect it (got dark and started raining here in Los Angeles) but I figure $90 for a new harness should do the trick since I have all the panels detached.

Anything else you suggest I try? :crying::crying::crying:

 

[nipper]

You can have broken wires witout broken insulation. Have a meter?

 

[idosubaru]

Can I safely assume there is a break in the wire under all the electrical tape wrapped around the harness?

yes, not that rare. checking continuity is best confirmation.

everyone in this thread is just buying another harness, but you can easily splice the wires in situ.

 

[Mich Outback]

Fellow Outbackers - I have a 2008 2.5 Limited - Trunk lock, rear wiper, reverse lights, and rear defogger not working....

Anything else you suggest I try? :crying::crying::crying:

carlo808: I tried to patch individual wires first, but after doing several circuits, it seemed like a loosing game. For the money and time required, I went with the replacement harness. It fits perfectly and plugs in. Best of luck.

 

[carlo808]

Replaced the entire thing

Got a harness online from another Subaru dealer outside of my home state.

The trickiest part for my was getting my hand in to attach the clips for the rear dome light. I pulled down the headliner but kept making creases in the fabric. :surprise:

So nice to be able to have the rear wiper, reverse whites, and most importantly the trunk door working correctly.

Anyone add their own external lock to the truck door? Have you seen a retrofit kit or a good MacGuyver job?

 

[Calibreadman80]

Hello new to this forum, actually came across this looking for reasons why my parking lights dont work. I have a 2007 Subaru Outback and found a number of wires broken at the rear hatch. I checked all the fuses and relays and even someones patch job to the parking light switch. so i am wondering if the broken wires at the hatch could cause my parking lights both front and back and license plate lights not to work. im taking the car into the dealership tomorrow morning to have it diagnosed.

 

[plain OM]

. . .patch job to the parking light switch.

Somewhat suspicious. Can't make out much in the photo.

I checked all the fuses and relays . . . . . wondering if the broken wires at the hatch could cause my parking lights both front and back and license plate lights not to work.

Definitely. But which fuses did you check, and, how did you check them? Also, the Parking Light switch on top of the steering column has to be working properly for the parking lights etc to work, whether using that switch or the main headlight switch control with the ignition at On.

 

[Calibreadman80]

i have a mechanic friend who has testers to test fuses and relays all of which were fine. the wiring fiasco under the dash looked like they piggy backed the switch on the column to the headlight switch and to the abs module with which they used an ignition relay. Ive owned alot of Subarus never one this new or with as many issues. my 95 subaru legacy has 230,000 miles never had any issues like this.

 

[plain OM]

Why ever would the parking lights switch (PL) be linked to the headlight switch and ABS module? Perhaps the switch itself was being used for some totally different purpose, that is, as a "conveniently-located" switch that's no longer part of the clearance and tail light circuit.

There's a copy of the 07 Clearance and Tail Light System wiring diagram in this post. It shows the PL ("parking switch") on the first page.

Did you repair the broken wires going to the hatch, or is that being addressed by the visit to the dealer?