[Mountaingurl]

Interesting - apparently Sunsong, a chinese manufacturer is reputable.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/sunsong-v-gates.342150/

Yeah, they're a good brand. All my power steering whine is gone!! All the shuddering is gone!!! But... I'm now dealing with both P0107 and P0108 MAP codes. UGH! Both circuit high and low codes. All we did was depin and put on a new connector.

I guess I’m never gonna learn to leave stuff alone!

* update* MAP codes are gone. A pin was bent and not making a connection. All is good now.

 

[59ctd]

Have you guys/gurls ever used this IronX treatment on the exterior/paint of your car? My son just did on his Legacy and holy smokers it was surprising how much iron it removed from the entire exterior surface. LOTS of purple streaks everywhere I will post pics if anyone is interested.

 

[ShinSubie]

Replaced the transmission fluid after 40k miles on 2007 Outback limited. Next time I am going to access the transmission drain and replace the filter from under driver side door which I thought gave me easier access .

another thing that I had trouble with was I didn’t have a level ground. It’s about a degree or two off but I just went ahead and did it. next time while removing the transmission fluid, I may use a floor jack at the midpoint of the side of the car and lift it slightly to level. But not sure if adjusting a degree or two will make a difference.

 

[kiwisix]

Had the A/C checked at a local shop they said that they thought it was fine and that the UV dye was from the previous compressor. They left the engine running a couple hours checking the gas pressures on the gauge and running diag but kindly only charged 30 minutes labour. Went home to install J2010AG00JD armrest extenstion received today but turns out it's not compatible with JDM models unfortunately (I need J2017FG000MG) as that was supposed to be thenew flair for passing annual inspection.

 

[Truck_1_0_1_]

Has been a few months since I posted when all the **** hit the fan in this post https://www.subaruoutback.org/threa...ns-fluid-issue-should-i-keep-driving.575025/page-2?post_id=6564251#post-6564251 lol.

So in that time, the OBW has spent 3 separate stints with my mechanic and just got it back yesterday, after the 3rd stint:

1. Turns out that even though my driveshaft was bad, it WASN'T what made the noise, as we ended up replacing it and the noise remained. We then tried one of the loose heat shields, that wasn't it. Ziptied the bumper (underside with openings, the actual bumper is on properly already lol) and other parts down to a piece of body, noise still remained. My rotors started to shudder at high speed braking, so got new rotors and in changing those... it was revealed that the passenger side parking brake shoe was all rusted and broken. That was removed and... THE SOUND IS GONE!
2. Had the differential oil done on Monday, so all fluids have been replaced in the last 500 KMs, but it was raining hard yesterday, so I couldn't check if the burning smell is still around. Will have to try tomorrow (though it's supposed to rain tomorrow too). With the windows closed, there is 0 smell of anything, both the burning and what I will write below.
3. The evap code led my mechanic to do a smoke machine test and... the top of the fuel tank has a pinhole leak somewhere (he was able to see it with his mirror, but not the exact location). My fuel lines are intact and in good shape functionality-wise, but quite rusted and the filler neck is quite rusted as well. Nothing is leaking, thankfully, but the smell of fuel can get quite strong with the windows open.

So for now, just have to keep driving the car, but I use Cruise Control religiously and this damn evap code keeps preventing me from using it (obviously)...

... so I wanted to ask: would it be worth it to buy a cheap OBD2 reader (one that can clear codes) and just carry with me at all times, then clear the code when it pops every time? Or is that a waste of time?

Also, is it true that the system does the evap check only less that 3/4 tank and above 1/4 tank? So hypothetically, I could drive the car with the fuel levels in those thresholds and the code will never pop?

 

[plain OM]

Also, is it true that the system does the evap check only less that 3/4 tank and above 1/4 tank?

There are many "enabling criteria" for the evap tests, one of which is Fuel Level, which is 9.6 to 54.4 litres. In other words, the test could run within this enabling range.

Also, thought I'd mention that evap faults have to be detected in two consecutive drive cycles before the code is set and the CEL is turned on. But even with this "delay", it seems it would be difficult to keep the tank near filled, or near empty, all the time.

would it be worth it to buy a cheap OBD2 reader (one that can clear codes) and just carry with me at all times, then clear the code when it pops every time?

A basic code reader could be used to clear the codes, but it's not just erasing recorded trouble codes, it's resetting the ECU. That removes all the "learned" trims which can affect starting and idling, and sometimes running, until these operating "adjustments" are relearned. A friend has been doing this for some time (different code) and has regularly complained about the hard re-starting and hesitation while driving during the re-learning period.

 

[Truck_1_0_1_]

There are many "enabling criteria" for the evap tests, one of which is Fuel Level, which is 9.6 to 54.4 litres. In other words, the test could run within this enabling range.

Also, thought I'd mention that evap faults have to be detected in two consecutive drive cycles before the code is set and the CEL is turned on. But even with this "delay", it seems it would be difficult to keep the tank near filled, or near empty, all the time.

That is insanely-useful, thank you OM! It may be a bit of a hoop to jump through, but I think I may be able to finagle this method, especially since it takes two failed tests (my mechanic told me all of this as well, but he didn't know the exact fuel levels).

A basic code reader could be used to clear the codes, but it's not just erasing recorded trouble codes, it's resetting the ECU. That removes all the "learned" trims which can affect starting and idling, and sometimes running, until these operating "adjustments" are relearned. A friend has been doing this for some time (different code) and has regularly complained about the hard re-starting and hesitation while driving during the re-learning period.

Indeed, I know what you mean: that leads me to this question!

Is there a code reader that DOESN'T reset the ECU or, would detaching the battery (negative) not reset the ECU either? Or will every code reader reset it and the battery disconnection as well?

I want to be as least-invasive as I can be

 

[mnussbau]

Is there a code reader that DOESN'T reset the ECU or, would detaching the battery (negative) not reset the ECU either? Or will every code reader reset it and the battery disconnection as well?

Not sure if it does or doesn't reset the ECU, but I have a ScanGauge II which definitely resets trouble codes. I've had it for many years and have reset quite a few codes over that time, and if it's resetting the ECU I've never noticed it. It's a great tool both for monitoring fuel economy and checking codes, and can read all sorts of engine data once you set it up.

Per the user manual:

Clearing Trouble Codes

While viewing the DTC codes, pressing the upper right function button next to CLEAR will result in a prompt from ScanGauge to verify that you want to clear the Trouble Code(s) and turn off the Check Engine light.

If you want to continue and clear the Trouble Codes, press YES. If you decide you do not want to clear the Trouble Codes, press NO.

When the YES button is pressed, ScanGauge will send out a signal to clear all of the Trouble Codes.

While ScanGauge is waiting for a response from the vehicle, the screen will display the message WAITING.

If the process is successful, the display will show CODES CLEARED. This should also turn off the Check Engine light on the dashboard and clear the Freeze Data.

If the display shows NO RESPONSE, the clear codes command was unsuccessful and your vehicle is not responding to the clear command.

 

[Truck_1_0_1_]

So many thanks, Mnuss! If this is indeed correct, that's what I'll get

Is this it?

Amazon.com: ScanGauge - SG2 Ultra Compact 3-in-1 Automotive Computer with Customizable Real-Time Fuel Economy Digital Gauges for OBD2 Vehicles : Automotive

Buy ScanGauge - SG2 Ultra Compact 3-in-1 Automotive Computer with Customizable Real-Time Fuel Economy Digital Gauges for OBD2 Vehicles: Gauge Sets - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

[plain OM]

@Truck_1_0_1_ @mnussbau

Do you have links to the source of that response? I'd like to see the YouTube video and the linked post in the ScanGauge website FAQs?

I ask because I'm not aware (yet) of any code-reading devices that remove stored codes without affecting learned values. Without the original context (e.g., the question), it's unclear whether or not the quoted text is saying that the ScanGauge, by design, will not clear "learned values" when clearing trouble codes. If it could, this would be a significant benefit over most other code readers that can clear codes but in doing so also reset the ECU.

 

[mnussbau]

View attachment 617429

So many thanks, Mnuss! If this is indeed correct, that's what I'll get

Is this it?

Amazon.com: ScanGauge - SG2 Ultra Compact 3-in-1 Automotive Computer with Customizable Real-Time Fuel Economy Digital Gauges for OBD2 Vehicles : Automotive

Buy ScanGauge - SG2 Ultra Compact 3-in-1 Automotive Computer with Customizable Real-Time Fuel Economy Digital Gauges for OBD2 Vehicles: Gauge Sets - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

Yes, that's it!

 

[mnussbau]

@Truck_1_0_1_ @mnussbau

Do you have links to the source of that response? I'd like to see the YouTube video and the linked post in the ScanGauge website FAQs?

I ask because I'm not aware (yet) of any code-reading devices that remove stored codes without affecting learned values. Without the original context (e.g., the question), it's unclear whether or not the quoted text is saying that the ScanGauge, by design, will not clear "learned values" when clearing trouble codes. If it could, this would be a significant benefit over most other code readers that can clear codes but in doing so also reset the ECU.

Hi OM. I'm personally not aware of a source regarding your question and can only speak from my own experiences. I've used the ScanGauge many times to reset codes for my own cars (Subaru and other makes) as well as friends cars, and not once ever did the behavior of the cars change at all that would indicate that it cleared learned values or otherwise reset the ECU.

 

[Truck_1_0_1_]

@Truck_1_0_1_ @mnussbau

Do you have links to the source of that response? I'd like to see the YouTube video and the linked post in the ScanGauge website FAQs?

I ask because I'm not aware (yet) of any code-reading devices that remove stored codes without affecting learned values. Without the original context (e.g., the question), it's unclear whether or not the quoted text is saying that the ScanGauge, by design, will not clear "learned values" when clearing trouble codes. If it could, this would be a significant benefit over most other code readers that can clear codes but in doing so also reset the ECU.

It's funny, I've searched the exact same parameters and those links don't show up anymore :|

It does have an attached YT video, but it doesn't say anything about resetting the ECU:

And the linked FAQ has nothing of the sort lol:

» FAQs

www.scangauge.com

.

I still think I will get this though

 

[SilverOnyx]

From https://www.scangauge.com/wp-content/uploads/documentation/sgii-legacy/SGII_QuickStart_1a_Pages.pdf

I read a comment somewhere that you can't clear codes while the engine is running, so it says it can be done in accessory mode.

 

[Mountaingurl]

So removing these transmission hoses has been very hard! I’m cut up from the heat shield on the cat, my knuckles are cut. I’ve said more cuss words than I’m proud of and… the kicker… the proverbial cherry on top? The hoses AREN’T 3/8th inches inner diameter! So they don’t fit! 😭 They’re too small!

Learn from me, don’t guess. Just bring the hoses to the auto parts store. I feel so stupid right now.

 

[Mountaingurl]

UPDATE I went back to O’Reilly’s with both old hoses and a clamp. I ended up buying

Hayden Transmission Oil Cooler Hose - 105.

Before messing with it on the car, I tested it on my old transmission and it went on snugly and the clamps fit. So I knew it would work.

Thankfully, my friend cut the hose and put them on for me. I still have a decent amount of hose leftover. I’ll test tomorrow for leaks and top up the transmission fluid.

What a day. Lol!

Thank you guys for helping walk me through this. If I had to do it over, I’d have just ordered the OEM hoses and clamps and called it a day.

Don’t be stubborn like me! Remove the driver’s side tire and use the OEM hoses and clamps. Save yourself the cuts, bruises, and battle. Also, I thing I’ll buy a hose removal tool. Maybe that would have helped me pry these 20 year old hoses off!

 

[Truck_1_0_1_]

Got the annual detail done yesterday, so that we have a nice, clean car for our trip to the cottage this weekend (car wasn't filthy, but it needed to be cleaned),.

Yet another issue though: I went to pick it up, they told me they couldn't get the trunk open. I tried, it won't budge :| (the handle works, but you can feel it isn't grabbing anything). Looks like either the wires connected to the handle have seized/broken or something else is wrong.

I will go do the manual flipping of the white bar and see if that can fix it.

EDIT* soooooo I just opened up the panel and took a look, this came OFF:

Thankfully, nothing looks broken or destroyed, thus could I even fix this myself?

 

[mnussbau]

Yesterday…changed the differential fluid front and rear, and drained and refilled the coolant. Had a little trouble burping the baby, there was no heat and the lower hose completely cold. After finishing the gear oil I lowered the rear end (had the car level on jack stands so I could do both jobs together), then squeezed the top and bottom hoses multiple times while idling. That seemed to do the trick, the heat finally worked and the lower hose heated up.

 

[plain OM]

Thankfully, nothing looks broken or destroyed, thus could I even fix this myself?

There's posts here discussing the workings of latch mechanism in some detail. Here's a few examples (you might have seen these before).

https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/09-hatch-stuck-closed.567637/?post_id=6479867#post-6479867

https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/manually-open-rear-hatch-door-stuck.546837/

https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/06-outback-rear-hatch-stucked-closed.544882/

 

[Truck_1_0_1_]

I have not, but thank you, OM: I have discovered that there is a secondary piece that actually locks and unlocks, mine snapped lol. I have since crawled in and was able to at least open it, but because it's still in the locked position, I need to do it from the inside with a screwdriver. I'm sure I can rig something to pull it, but I'm not super mechanically-inclined, so I may struggle. We'll see.

EDIT*

https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/09-hatch-stuck-closed.567637/?post_id=6477332#post-6477332

This is the best post for this, as mine has snapped almost IDENTICALLY to the one of the second picture. In the first picture, you circled the cam lever: THAT is what I need to toggle/switch/whatever to get it to work again. Is there any way this can be switched when mounted in place or would it need to be removed?

SECOND EDIT* I should've kept reading that thread lol, I will try my best now!

THIRD EDIT* lol: Not sure if I can switch that, so it looks like I'm going to have to bite the time bullet ('cause I will need my tailgate extensively over the weekend), create a rope switch or jury-rig up something that I can pull and manually open it from the inside, until my mechanic can fix it on Monday. The part number btw, if anyone cares, is one (or both) of:

63032AG00B
63176A