Subaru Outback Forums banner
9,281 - 9,291 of 9,291 Posts
Has been a few months since I posted when all the **** hit the fan in this post https://www.subaruoutback.org/threa...ns-fluid-issue-should-i-keep-driving.575025/page-2?post_id=6564251#post-6564251 lol.

So in that time, the OBW has spent 3 separate stints with my mechanic and just got it back yesterday, after the 3rd stint:

1. Turns out that even though my driveshaft was bad, it WASN'T what made the noise, as we ended up replacing it and the noise remained. We then tried one of the loose heat shields, that wasn't it. Ziptied the bumper (underside with openings, the actual bumper is on properly already lol) and other parts down to a piece of body, noise still remained. My rotors started to shudder at high speed braking, so got new rotors and in changing those... it was revealed that the passenger side parking brake shoe was all rusted and broken. That was removed and... THE SOUND IS GONE! :D
2. Had the differential oil done on Monday, so all fluids have been replaced in the last 500 KMs, but it was raining hard yesterday, so I couldn't check if the burning smell is still around. Will have to try tomorrow (though it's supposed to rain tomorrow too). With the windows closed, there is 0 smell of anything, both the burning and what I will write below.
3. The evap code led my mechanic to do a smoke machine test and... the top of the fuel tank has a pinhole leak somewhere (he was able to see it with his mirror, but not the exact location). My fuel lines are intact and in good shape functionality-wise, but quite rusted and the filler neck is quite rusted as well. Nothing is leaking, thankfully, but the smell of fuel can get quite strong with the windows open.

So for now, just have to keep driving the car, but I use Cruise Control religiously and this damn evap code keeps preventing me from using it (obviously)...

... so I wanted to ask: would it be worth it to buy a cheap OBD2 reader (one that can clear codes) and just carry with me at all times, then clear the code when it pops every time? Or is that a waste of time?

Also, is it true that the system does the evap check only less that 3/4 tank and above 1/4 tank? So hypothetically, I could drive the car with the fuel levels in those thresholds and the code will never pop?
Defintely get a code reader. I have a P0420 that comes up here and there and I just clear it out so I can use cruise. I can do it at a stoplight now Ive done it so many times
 
It's grill time!

Had a spare grill and painted it black - unfortunately no emblem with it.

Image


Bought an aftermakrt emblem and hot glued it to the grill due to miisng pins and slightly larger size of it .

Image


Tadah!

Image


The result is ok-ish but I have to figure out how to paint the edges of the emblem where glue is still visible.
Any ideas?
Image


Cheers
 
Could you do a vinyl wrap with the seam at the bottom?
 
What did I do with my Subaru, you ask? Why, I replaced the blasted high pressure hose o-ring — AGAIN! I filled the reservoir — AGAIN. I swore and cussed and swore and cussed — AGAIN. I cleaned up leaking ATF — AGAIN. Now I’m wondering, can I put an electric steering rack in my car?! I’m kidding —- sorta. 😆
 
Yesterday...check engine light popped on, P0028. I discovered there was a ton of oil leaking from the right side oil pressure switch. Bought a new one from Subaru, installed it (carefully, less than 12 ft lb), cleared the code. Well, the light came back almost immediately with P0082. 😞 So now I need to do some troubleshooting. Possibly a bad connection in the wiring? Or a bad solenoid? Any tips?

Oh, I used teflon tape on the oil pressure switch threads, about two turns. Could that prevent a good ground between the switch body and the head?
 
Yesterday...check engine light popped on, P0028. I discovered there was a ton of oil leaking from the right side oil pressure switch. Bought a new one from Subaru, installed it (carefully, less than 12 ft lb), cleared the code. Well, the light came back almost immediately with P0082. 😞 So now I need to do some troubleshooting. Possibly a bad connection in the wiring? Or a bad solenoid? Any tips?

Oh, I used teflon tape on the oil pressure switch threads, about two turns. Could that prevent a good ground between the switch body and the head?
Do you have the FSM to look at the diagnostic trees for those codes? I texted Cardoc to have him chime in. You should make a separate post for the issue so it’s easy to follow for others having the same problems.
 
Great suggestion, I'll do that, thx.
Ditch the Teflon.

Do you mean P0028 came back in after you cleared it? Is it full of clean oil?

Pull the solenoid out and see if there's any debris or metal on it. If there's metal, that's a problem. No metal, clean it and reinstall.
 
9,281 - 9,291 of 9,291 Posts